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I've been doing what Mark does for a while here with the Phenix vibrating jigs. Ole California delta trick (wink wink) but I really wanna start pouring the heads myself. Zman had the right idea with the chatterbait but in the past years the quality of components has gotten worse from them. That's why I wanna make my own.

Thanks. The area by the trigger and valve does not get any paint near it. I dropped some Createx Restorer down the hole into the valve. That stuff is kinda oily feeling and it seemed to do the trick.

I found this technique here on http://www.tackleund...h__1#entry33351 In theory, the technique is used to find the volume of a lure, but in our application, it also tell us what the final weight of the lure needs to be for neutral buoyancy in fresh water. The down side for you guys, is that you have to work in grams, NOT ounces. The Archimedes dunk test: 1 - Fill a beaker with enough water to completely submerge your lure, without touching sides or bottom. 2 - Place beaker of water on scales. 3 - Set the scales to measure grams and zero. 4 - Hold the nose eye with long nose pliers and submerge in the water, upto the eye. Leave the hooks on for this. 5 - Read off the scale and write the number down. Because one gram of water has a volume of one centimeter cube, the number written down represents the volume of the lure in centimeter cubes. The number also represents what the final lure should weigh (in grams) if you are going for neutral buoyancy. If you want a floater, just add less ballast. This test can be done as early as the first seal of the body, to get an early indication of the final weight of the lure, or right at the end of the build process. If you want to tweak the final lure to get neutral, fit all the hooks etc and test. This will indicate the size of the slug you need to add. Another application is, if you want to copy a lure and get the same amount of float. Weigh the original (with hooks) and divide by the dunk test weight. This will give you a ratio. When you build your copy, ballast to achieve the same ratio. I have been using this technique for a few months now and it is quick, very accurate and simple. I recommend that you at least give it a try out. Dave

After three marriages, my definition of fun has changed.

I use epoxy for all hardware regardless of what other finish products I use. I glue in lips after painting and before topcoating. I haven't found anything that reacts badly with either epoxy or Solarez. I think once they're cured both are pretty non-reactive. I never use Solarez as a glue. It uses wax that rises to its surface in order to make the surface hard and slick, so I don't think it has any adhesive qualities if that's what you are asking. I use Rod Bond Paste epoxy 99% of the time to mount all hardware. I like it because it fills any gaps and will not run, plus it's long work time lets me work on a batch of baits at a leisurely pace.

Mark, I haven't tried adding acetone to the solarez but it sure sounds like it would be helpful. Bob, I tried sealing with solarez but I wasn't comfortable with it because I use D2T to glue the bill in and the hook hangars in so it seems like I should continue with the D2T. What do you glue your bill/hardware in with and how much do you think we may be able to do multiple layers of different product. I haven't really seen the two disagree with each other.

me and gliders grrrr. have at it boys

And for clarification I do believe zman should defend their patent but I don't think that just because some guy makes one for himself in his garage that works a little better than the original he should get in trouble. I know if I had a patent and people started mass producing my idea without giving me credit I would be pissed too.

I mix the glitter with the KBS

21XDC has you covered. The Eagle Claw 570 black platinum hooks are really good, I actually prefer them to Mustad anymore. There are differences in the models, the 570BP is the same as the regular 570 only in a black nickel finish, I like using those in smaller hooks from 1/0 on down. There is another one called the L570BP, that is the laser sharp version, it is sharper but double the price of the 570BP which is still inexpensive, I use those in larger sizes from 2/0 on up and the reason is the smaller sizes you don't need the laser sharp point because the wire is light so you get easy penetration without any problem, the larger wire diameter of the bigger sizes I like using the laser sharp models. This is where I get confused, the 3052 is a laser sharp model that is available from sizes 1/0 on up, I don't know the difference between those and the laser sharp 570BP, both seem to be close if not the same. The 2831 is a laser sharp model of the Mustad 32831, it has an extra long shank and is a strong hook for being a light wire, I use those on my underspin heads, they are only available in 3/0 and 4/0 sizes. Any of the black platinum series will work well for your jigs, I use to swear by the Mustad 32746 but now I use the 570BP as well as the L570BP and L2831, all great hooks at an even better price!!

the lure building web site recommended by anglinarcher is where i first learned how to build gliders...great site...iv'e built them from poplar and Azek (thank You Mark).....mine have been in the 6-8 inch slow sink models shaped similar to the "stalker glider"...good luck

Got the glass beads in today and did a batch with nothing but salt and another batch with nothing but the beads.....

I found that my Solarez got thicker after a while, and went on too thick when I dipped it, so I added some acetone to it to make it thinner again. That helped. Someone here suggested warming it to make it thinner, and that helped, too. Just be sure you don't get even indirect sunlight or LED light onto the Solarez while it's hanging, or it will skin up and get lumpy while it's dripping off, even before you put it in a UV light source to cure.

i still use salt and probably wont switch. salt is natural and non-toxic. dont think glass beads are too safe if you or your pets consume them somehow. salt is cheap and apparently fish hold onto salt baits longer than unsalted (what i've heard, could be wrong) transparent sticks look cool but i highly doubt a fish that wants your senko is going to have time to determine if its a realistic color or not. they are triggered on the action of a bait. spraypaint a real crayfish any color you want and its getting slammed every time. ive fished hundreds of colors of stick baits and they have all worked (in my opinion) the same.

I just wanted to give a shout out to Barlow's Tackle for excellent service!!!! I placed an order Thursday evening and Friday I get a call telling me the one item I ordered was out of stock so they offered me an alternative item. I really appreciated that as a lot of places just send the order with an updated price as the item is out of stock. This is the kind of customer service that makes me a return customer, and I also wanted to give some love as we all are quick to voice our displeasure when things don't go well with a vendor. So thank you Barlow's Tackle, I truly appreciate the extra effort!!

Made this beauty...simple design. But it's awesome when you take it out for a test run and it gets smacked around. LoL....looks like I'll be making 60 more now that I know gets bit!