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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/17/2017 in all areas

  1. check the members tutorial section for solarfals videos. some great stuff there and youtube has a ton of great airbrush videos.
    2 points
  2. I take my knife and put a drop of plastic in the mold where I want the rattle then set the rattle while its hot then close the mold and inject. That way its surrounded with plastic.
    2 points
  3. I don't understand what taking all the "cleaners" out means. A cleaner, like soap? I just don't understand.
    1 point
  4. I hope this is resolved for you, Jig Man. It has to be frustrating and glad to hear RCBS is working hard to resolve it. I would really like to have one of these but thought I would wait for the PID unit to show up just because of the control and added value you would get with a thermocouple and the PID. I understand these may be out August timeframe.
    1 point
  5. Ok just trying to help. You said you wanted a blue sapphire like zooms. It is not a solid blue because if it was you would not see the flake in it. You can get a dye from Mf and get a blue like the zoom pictures on there site. Mf blue I am talking about is one of the first ones on his list of colors simply named blue. By the way I believe most of the first ten colors are dyes so be carefull they bleed. If you want a solid blue then post a picture.
    1 point
  6. Add blue hilite powder or white pearl to it. This will give the blue color something to reflect the light.
    1 point
  7. Do you want it transparent or do you want it opaque? If you want it to be a bright blue, add a little white with your blue pigments. This will make it opaque and a bright light blue. If you want it transparent, the more pigment you add the darker it will be. If you wanted a dark blue, opaque, then add a little black with your blue. As for uv-go, I'll really have to let someone else answer that. I hope I understand your question. If not, well, maybe someone else can help.
    1 point
  8. I was mostly being cheeky since we sell many of the same products as SU, but, not being a TU sponsor (yet), we're not supposed to overtly promote ourselves. We have a number of products we buy from SU, so, like many of you, we're hoping they get their inventory levels back up soon.
    1 point
  9. Thanks. I got a call this am. Someone is supposed to put the next one through its paces this am before they ship it to me and include notes concerning what was found and done. I hope that they can find out the problem and fix it. If not then I'm going to ask for a refund and wait till August when the new one comes out and give it a try.
    1 point
  10. I use a small tenon saw (some call it a back saw) that I bought at a model shop. The deep saw blade plus the reinforced spine, prevents the saw from flexing. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backsaw In the link, the middle saw in the picture. I cut part way through, before shaping. This operation is much more difficult once the lure body is shaped. By cutting only part way through, the body is still in one piece and easy to carve. When ready to cut the sections, you have a guide slot, making the job much easier and less chance of ruining the work that you have already done. Dave
    1 point
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