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I'm drawing a blank here.

Unfortunately that is a non starter at the moment..... Find your Stir system FIRST. I have TWO if the original BAITJUNKYS ProStirs. I THINK Leonard may be the only place right now as it appears Bear is shut down due to his illness....And do yourself a service and order the 5 QT Presto online from Walmart. It ain't NECESSARY to have the extra capacity over the regular one but for a few extra bucks, you will be satisfied.

Make your own short-arm spinner bait wire forms to create this-

I didn't paint that one. That's a picture from Avid's website. All of the ones that I have painted are already in the boat. Maybe I'll post some photos of them when I get back from fishing this weekend.

Mark, I would have attempted cutting some eyes that I already had to fit, but unfortunately I didn't have any eyes large enough to fill the width of the socket. These eyes are a very peculiar shape. It's not really a big deal though. They are so narrow that I just painted the eye sockets and filled them with epoxy. If I were selling these baits it would be a bigger deal. These are just for my own personal use, so most of them will probably just end up being fed to alligators or trees. Thanks for the suggestion though.

Have you tried cutting some other eyes to shape with nail clippers?

Try http://www.saltybugger.com They have all you need and more. Hi Salty, I got it ha!

Mark I tried what you are talking about with wood glue and put a hole in the ceiling turning it on a lathe. I will have to try the pvc glue. kinda a duh moment reading that for me ;D makes more sense than woodglue. . Hahaha! Hey a tip for all lure builders.. if you haven't already, a lot of times I just get my Azek from the lowes/homedepot 70% or free cutoff bin. Usually just cut out the bad stuff. Always check it when your there.

shakes and rolls really don't mix phased out plastic very well. You got to stir it.

Thanks for the info. Im going to laminate two pieces and give it a go.

no, won't be moisture. make sure you're mixing it good.

If you use pvc primer and glue, I can't imagine that it wouldn't be stronger than the porous pvc board around it. The stuff molecularly welds pvc. I cut a transverse section out of a plastic lure and rejoined the parts with it and it worked fine. The only problem is if the primer is doped with purple dye, which is hard to hide during finishing. Some states require the dye, some don't.

The trim board is definitely not as strong as the decking, which is a structural material designed to support loads. I've made thinner baits out of the trim board that held up to a 7 lb bass, but I don't use the trim for thin baits anymore if I can get away with decking. Here's that bait: If I want a thicker blank, I glue two pieces together with PVC pipe glue and primer. Just be sure to put the smooth faces toward each other, and sand the mating faces first, to help the glue bond them properly. That way the wood grain is on the outside, and it's removed when I shape the lure. Brush on super glue works, too. Either method, apply the glue, and then clamp until the glue sets.

Oh yes, many times. I prefer to use a little stiffer silicone mold when I do that, something like the Alumilite Quick Set or the Trans 40. They keep a little more dimensional stability so it is easier. http://www.makelure.com/store/p/918-QuickSet.aspx http://www.makelure.com/store/p/1081-TRANS-40-Translucent-Silicone.aspx Now, as for an "aluminum mold", there is another option that is just about as good and down right cheep compared to having one machined. You can make one from Alumilite Vac-Master 50. It is as close to an Aluminum mold as you can get, in fact it contains a high amount of aluminum in it, and can be machined. http://www.makelure.com/store/p/1056-Vac-Master-50.aspx If I was going to pour with the lip in place, and I was not going to pour dozens or hundreds, I would use the Trnas 40 because you can see the lip in place as you pour the resin. But, if I was going to pour lots and lots and had the mold designed with no undercuts, a good clean fit, then the Vac-Master 50 would be my go to material.

Very good and unique blanks. Terrible if not impossible to contact him. I have a pending Paypal dispute going on now for preorder Whopper Plopper blanks from March. That being said he does have them now and shipped rather quickly. I was shorted some eyes and still cant get in touch .

Most TU members concentrate on freshwater lures but if you Google "unpainted saltwater lures" there seems to be lots of alternative sources.

I use a piece of shirt cardboard with a small hole in it, and a slot cut to the hole, to act as a spacer/masker when I paint my ploppers. I spray them with Rustoleum X2 Gloss Clear, two coats, with the cardboard removed, and they still spin fine.

If the ko is faithful to the original, the gap is very narrow and you shouldn't have a problem avoiding locking up the tail with clearcoat that is brushed on. To guarantee it doesn't, wrap a rubber band into the gap and it will seal off the joint while painting and clearcoating.

I just wanted to start by saying you guys have been a tremendous help since I started pouring a year ago,thank you guys! GP candy laminate craw my cooling table some gp hues my pouring station

I was told by an epoxy tech. tost be sure to mix the two parts completely before you add the alcohol. Otherwise, the alcohol will bond to one part of the epoxy, instead of the two parts bonding to each other, and the mix won't set up properly.