Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/06/2017 in all areas

  1. I got into lure making when I had a lot more time to invest in it. I spent a lot of time on the water as well. Ah, to be a carefree teenager again! Even then, though, I was a bit of a dinosaur and preferred wood lures to plastic. Making my own lures was a way to get wood versions of some of the plastic lures I liked. And there's NOTHING like the feeling you get when you catch a fish on a lure that was just a branch on a cedar tree before you took a knife and paintbrush to it! Now, after many years away from the hobby, I'm getting back into it because I enjoy it. I love tinkering and doing things with my hands. Am I out to create the next "big thing"? Not really. I'm still a dinosaur, just a little older with better tools and resources at hand. I like recreating classic lures with fairly simple paint schemes, but with a few modern touches thrown in. Better hooks, realistic eyes, etc. I do intend to sell a few lures. Mostly in hopes of helping to fund the effort. If I do make a little extra money out of it, that's great. But in the end it's a way for me to connect with fishermen and craftsmen of days gone by when one couldn't just walk into a store or pull out their smartphones and have literally anything they wanted at their fingertips. That, and the feeling I still get when a fish slams a lure that I made from scratch. Nah, I'll never get tired of that!
    2 points
  2. The reason wiggle warts used snaps was because they had to rework their molds and it dropped the line tie figure 8 too low in the bill for a split ring. On some of the older warts you can see a square in the plastic around the line tie figure 8 where they reworked it. Snaps are not as dependable as split ring and not nearly as strong. They also tend to gather moss and grass more than split rings.
    2 points
  3. Hey ! I thought I'd post this idea in case anyone was looking for a simple solution to heating a drying cabinet. The room I use gets a bit chilly in winter, and it was causing problems with my epoxy. I got a heating pad for a reptile tank from Amazon and just placed it on the bottom of the cabinet. It has a dial switch to adjust the heat. It's made a noticeable difference in smoother flow out and abbreviated curing time. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY0QSP6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    1 point
  4. Haven't looked too closely into this yet but when I first saw the video I instantly thought of using it on a fishing jig? Going to have to price this stuff and see if I can get some. A real chrome looking brushed on finish. https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=2015201105435926&id=1547188775570497 OK looked it up and at $699 a pint I think it's outta my price range!! Still pretty cool though.
    1 point
  5. Impressive work as always Will, I love you attention to detail on you jigs as well as your organization, well done!!!!
    1 point
  6. I have a very organized work area, too, but it's buried under a lot of stuff.
    1 point
  7. build your master lure copy from that. we use table saws,bansaw for ruff cut. then belt sanders, and yes finish hand sanding. yep my hands hurt some days. repetition does take its toll.
    1 point
  8. Well I watched the video, and I was impressed. I guess if you can get paint to look like chrome when it's done, then you can charge whatever you want. But like you guys said, at $699/pint, that is too expensive for my blood. I'll just stick to pouring my really soft lead, and as soon as it cools, I clearcoat it. My chrome solution is more affordable. Thanks for the video, very cool.
    1 point
  9. Like everyone mentioned, you will be fine. You can pour with any lead, as long as you figure out how to get good pours without any bad ones on a consistent basis. Make sure the mold is hot as well as the pot. Yes turning up the pot to get it hotter does help with better pouring. Also use Drop-Out and many of your problems will go away.
    1 point
  10. Looks like you are very organized. That's a good thing.
    1 point
  11. You'll be fine as long as your pot and mold is hot. I have poured with lead that had a BHN of 15 - 17 and the main adjustment I made was having my pot cranked up and my mold really hot. I use a mix of 70% soft lead to 30% hard lead for just about everything but I have a smaller pot that I keep a 60% soft to 40% hard mix in for spinnerbaits, the harder mix will make it less likely the wire form will come loose.
    1 point
  12. All good here Vince, I'm thinking it would be a bit cool up where you are --Its Summer here but you wouldn't know it, has been raining for the past week. I have been looking/reading about Detroit rising from the ashes, seems to be some real innovation there, so maybe I might come across and have a look next spring (your spring), so if I do I will certainly make it a point to drop by mate. When talking about Russian innovation, I was talking more about anything they need to make, not necessarily lures--Like I said it amazes me how they (Russians) can make something out of nothing,, maybe because they have had to for so long !! ''Sonoman'' don't look too closely at us, we seem to have the same problem here, ''Murray Cod'' lures haven't changed in 30 years, some say because they work. Although I don't fish for them much, I say we should be trying something like BIG ''Musky'' lures on them--It took 15 -20 years for them to get onto using spinner baits here, which have been very successful, so maybe in another 20 years we might try some whopping ''Musky'' style divers Maybe I should TRY and make some . Heaven Forbid. Pete
    1 point
  13. Yes Mark that would look awesome on some of my jigs. Maybe a black powdercoated base coat then the chrome. Maybe a little airbrush work on top. But NOT at $699 a pint.
    1 point
  14. Mark, I'm not sure if moving the line tie up will make the lure more stable. I think it may slightly increase the width of the wobble though. Maybe that's why some of the old wiggle warts were so erratic and unstable because of the line tie being so shallow.
    1 point
  15. To me, a good snap is fine for cranking. I use the LurePartsOnline 40 lb snaps for my bladed jigs, and for open water cranking, where I may change colors several times to see which color is working best at that time. But snaps grab weeds, so I don't use them when I'm running a square bill through grass and tulles. I also think they are heavier than a good, small split ring, so I don't use snaps on jerkbaits, either, since I'm usually wanting a specific action and it's easier for me to get the bait adjusted beforehand with a split ring on it, and then just tie the line to it. Sometimes a slightly larger or smaller split ring can make the difference between slow sink, suspend, and slow rise. For me, especially in colder water, that's really important.
    1 point
  16. I've been working on the same dilemma. Sure takes a keen eye to hand sand/carve lures that are all exactly same. But I've learned lots from youtube and forums like this. I like some of this guys ideas on making simple jigs to replicate shapes and angles. Tough thing for me is that I like to make different sizes and shapes and stuff. https://youtu.be/Y7_asjtI2UQ
    1 point
  17. This post was geared to the guys who start from scratch to design a lure. I want to look at a block of wood and say, " What if maybe" I put a small spinner blade where the front hook goes or what if I give the lure a hump back. Maybe it works maybe it goes down in flames. Yes this hobby is fun but building a lure from scratch and catching a nice fish on that lure is an absolute HOOT. Boys keep on building those lures. Thanks
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...
Top