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You cannot weld a steel hooks to a brass blade. Now you can weld a steel hook to a steel blade, however the plating on the hook and the blade will be compromised and will have to be re-plated to keep it from rusting after welding. I recall awhile back some of the guys silver soldered the hooks onto blades, or it might be a slightly different process. I have tried silver soldering in the past, and it didn't work for me. You have to have the right flux (resin) and solder to do the job correctly along with the correct heat temp. the first thing that comes to mind is the Johnson Silver Minnow Spoon.

The green TT pliers are what I use for my big swimbait 2X split rings, size 7 and 8. They should help you quite a bit.

I use Craftsmart premium satan , it will take heat to 350 degrees.

I like using Ceramcoat acrylic paint for eyes. It’s very thick and I daub it on with a Swisspers cotton swab (firmer than Qtips). Let it air dry for a couple of hours, add a black iris with a smaller paint dauber. I recommend letting eye paint air dry to avoid cracking. You can topcoat it with just about anything.

5/16" I think

When I was in construction a few years back, I so much azek it wasnt even funny. I threw away alot of azek as well! If I would have known its a good lure making material I would have been stock piling it. Thank you guys for the tips. I love the idea of the toothbrush. I saw on youtube a guy using a sponge as well. I think the azek will turn okay as long as you do a scraping cut, not riding the bevel and making a peeling cut, I think there would be too much friction and would actually melt the piece. Thank you guys again for all the tips.

My bank account was never fond of me making baits. LOL

I hope you are high and dry.

I have done the silicone mold. Not the 2 part mold, just the open pour. A few things about it: One: use 100% silicone. I get mine from Ace Hardware. Around 5-6 bucks a tube.Two: What you add to it is water. Not very much. I use 1/4 tsp to a full tube. It will only takes so much water, the rest will not mix in. (pour that left over water out before you mold). Make sure all the silicone your going to use has water in it. ( or you end up with a mess) The water makes it setup in like an hour( I give it two just to be sure) Three: your model must be hard( I use baked clay) Your model must also be sealed( I use mod podge. I got it before I learned there was better stuff).Four: Mix it in a plastic bowl. I get mine from the dollar store. ( well for a dollar) Once the silicone sets up it will peel right out. So you can use it again. I have used white and clear. White makes a better looking mold. But clear it easier to tell if all has water in it ,because it turns opaque. You have to make a frame out of something. Need four sides and a top and bottom. I use wood because that's what I had. Don't glue it together, just use clamps. ( you have to pull the wood apart. Easier if not glued) Fill the frame all the way to it's even with the top. Push you model down from the top until it's just above the edge. Then use the top to push it down the rest of the way. Make sure the top is setting on the edge of the sides. This will push the excess out of mold and leave you a nice flat top on the mold. This will give you a very shiny bait. The detail is very good. Will even pick up the paint brush marks in the Mod podge. If your model has very thin or small parts, this may not be the way to go. Easy to break off in the mold. If you end up with bad places in the mold(voids), just mix some more silicone and water.Fill it in ( I use a q-tip dipped in water)and put the model back in. let it set up again. This is why I have not tried two part molds. Because the silicone will bond to the point where you can't tell where it was repaired. One last note if you do a swim bait with a paddle tail and the tail is 90 degrees all fine and good. If it's 45 degrees you must put the tail in at a angle. Then push down.