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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/17/2018 in all areas

  1. There's 3 people who make money at a tackle show. IT AINT YOU It is however.... The Hall The Show promoter ...and the IRS.......... Tackle shows are a complete and utter waste of time and money. Glorified flea markets in most cases.
    2 points
  2. Started painting after a break. Shaking of the rust.

    © RLM

    1 point
  3. This is an 11 inch bait made from western red cedar. Thru wire construction with aluminum lip.
    1 point
  4. I have sold a number of different things at shows and there is one huge factor in what you end up selling it’s salesmanship You can’t just sit there and let your product be your only selling point. If you have the gift to excite people when you talk it can double your sales. If you have a reputation as a good fisherman that’s huge. You also need to catch there eye and draw them in. Having a voice that is heard by others walking by as you promote to a customer in front of you plus If you just sit there don’t expect amazing results.
    1 point
  5. I am currently using both Etex and KBS Diamond. I thought the KBS would replace the Etex. If so, I wouldn't need a turner and I would be able to do more. Kinda didn't work out exactly like that. I have found that some bait's body style prefers Etex over KBS. For me jointed baits need the epoxy brushed on to keep out of joints. When using KBS, Wiggle warts (even with a drip wire) tend to leave a small build up on the tail, making it difficult for me to not screw it up trying to clean up any excess. Any other styles I've dipped without issues and the KBS works great. My opinion is Etex and KBS both harden about the same as I have not been able to see any difference in wear running 1.5s through the rocks testing both. Again this is just my opinion but the time to it takes to harden to the point I would fish it I give Etex 3 days and KBS 6. KBS stinks. It will stink up my entire work shop. Hope this help a little with your decision. I've only worked with these 2 products so I can not give an opinion on any other.
    1 point
  6. I would suggest researching this and digging through the archives. Simple answer is Oak, Hickory, eucalyptus and such but you will not be happy with those and that is the wrong direction for you to head. You have a good wood you are using add more ballast! There are wood density charts out there that tell you what the more popular wood choices are. But IMHO basswood is one of the best choices out there for crankbaits and jerkbaits. It is easy to carve, has tight grains and holds screws very well. Others like balsa may outperform it but they have weaknesses like screw holding retention. You should really try and do some research on here about design, theories and what not. Essentially you want a very buoyant wood for many reasons. A few examples are with weighting and weight placement. You have more control over how the lure falls and where the weight is placed which effect action in the simplest terms. Also less buoyant woods like balsa have more action thats why they are soo popular given the inherent weakness of balsa. Again you should read up on this as you would have reading material for weeks if not longer.
    1 point
  7. There’s definitely some “art” required in using epoxy while moisture cured urethane (MCU) and UV cured polyester are simpler options but more expensive. For most guys the choice is determined by what they try and then become comfortable with using. All of them give you durable, attractive baits. I use epoxy or MCU and want to try Alumi-UV at some point. For wood baits, I often use epoxy. For refinishing plastic baits, MCU gives what I consider a more “factory-like” result. But if Alumi-UV has good clarity, it will be worth the expense to have a clearcoat you can dip into and cure hard in just a few minutes.
    1 point
  8. For your first baits, use Devcon 2 Ton. There is a ton of information here about it - what people like and don't like. The reason I suggest this for your first baits is that it is the low cost, and that it's easy to find, and the finished product is high quality. There also isn't a lot of equipment needed to do a few at a time. Some other clear coats require turners, UV lamps, or special storage. It wouldn't be my choice if I were doing hundreds of baits, but getting started it is a great option. Do a few baits, and if it's something you will stick with, then get a turner and start exploring other options.
    1 point
  9. I tried the epoxy route once and wasn't for me. Used Sally Hansen this summer on some chatter and spinner baits and had real good luck. Used the KBS Diamond coat the other night for the first time. As per lots of reading I transferred mine into glass canning jars with seals and am using the argon from Diamond coat. Yes it does have a powerful smell! That being said it must be good if it smells really bad? Nice thing is that I could have it shipped to Montana (winter here) and not have any freezing problems.
    1 point
  10. Take your mouse to the top right of this screen, hover over Activity, on the drop down screen go to search, click on it, and enter clear coats. There are years of debates on this. 5 minute epoxy will yellow, but long cure epoxies will not. Etex is a common and excellent option as well. Epoxies require lure turners or constant lure turning until cured. Moisture cures are good, but they cure in the can once opened. Ways to slow it down and deal with it, but it is a problem. Smell and fumes are potentially bad. Some Mark uses Sally Hansen Hard as nails fingernail nail polish, but if you are doing a lot of them, probably not reasonable. I use Alumilite UV cure. Having used all of the above, I think it is the best, but it requires a proper UV light cure set-up. Lots of options, and I am convinced that we will never all agree on the "best" to use.
    1 point
  11. I have the BassTackle and the Do-it CNC and Essential and all 3 make a super bait that are nearly identical. The value of the Essential series mold can't be beat.
    1 point
  12. Ray, I bought the ES Ripper mold from Barlow's for $32+-. It has three cavities and pours great and catches fish! https://www.barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Essentials-Ripper-Mold-35-P3773.aspx One cavity for $68, or three cavities for $32?
    1 point
  13. I like Epoxy for personal or small run of baits. Bob Smith Industries 30 min or Devcon two ton 30 min. For larger production runs dipping in KBS seems to be the way to go.
    1 point
  14. There are all kinds of clearcoats used on crankbaits. Epoxy is still one of the most popular and yellowing is not a big issue if it is measured and mixed well. I’ve had epoxied baits 4-5 yrs old without noticeable yellowing. That said, there are other options: moisture cured urethanes like KBS Diamond Coat, UV cured polyesters like Alumi-UV. All have advantages and disadvantages. You should use the search feature to explore their attributes, application techniques, pros and cons.
    1 point
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