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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/05/2018 in all areas

  1. Oops I forgot the picture of the fish.
    1 point
  2. it is pad printing. talked to a guy awhile back about getting one, decided not to get one. Just didn't have the money to get one.
    1 point
  3. It is not necessary to use the syringe. My experience is that they are not that accurate and you have to verify volume visually. I but the 8.5 oz bottles and use small "Nyquil" cups to mix in. I apply two equal size beads in the cup. I also use the volume of the bottles to verify by setting them side by side and comparing the two meniscus. That serves as a guide after the fact, telling you if you have been erring on your measurements. You can then make adjustments. The lines on the bottle are useless as each printing varies. You have to miss by quite a bit to mess up the results.
    1 point
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  5. You know, this will get me in trouble here, but I just don't find I have ever needed it exact. For the few I do before it starts to harden, I can just do it by eye. But, did I ever say I get in trouble on this site once in a while. LOL
    1 point
  6. I read and understood it the first time.... I should not have to "fix" a new mold... Especially all of them. I use drop out spray and it is no help.
    1 point
  7. Rofish, To try and help solve the white haze problem... I am not sure what is going on with your dip and why it wouldn't re-clear the coat on each dip. I had a problem with one of my jars of dip when I had dipped a damp lure in the solution and it contaminated the jar. After that my every bait I dipped had a white surface. The solution was not the clear to light blue it normally had been and it had turned a touch milky. It could be the type of plastic you are using? One key I found is to make sure the wood you dip is dry and keep the moisture out of the jar. J Blaze, to answer your other questions. Most propionate is used in high quality plastic containers and boxes and most have specific uses like in the medical field. To make a quart of each I would start with 2 oz. propionate (by weight) and 26 oz. acetone for your soaking/sealing solution. For the thicker base coating solution, 4 oz. propionate to 25 oz. acetone. This will leave a little room to dip the baits with out spill over. To get a little thicker if needed. I keep a jar of very thick solution (thick as molasses or thicker) around to add to my other jars and use when I make paint. This is ready to mix with out having to wait for pellets to dissolve. To make this, I fill a jar about 20%-25% with propionate pellets then fill about 90% full with acetone. leaving room for shaking. Then put a very tight lid on and shake for about 30 min. (Just keep it moving so it won't set up in the bottom). Stir a little the next day and agitate to help the solvent get to it to break it down. It is very important to use a good jar with a good lid.(Not the jelly jars with 1/2 turn lids. Trust me.) Mason jars work great. You might want to let the acetone eat the seal away before you use it so not to have little pieces of rubber seal in the bottom of solution. The propionate will make another seal around the top. If you have access to leak proof High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) bottles they will work great also with out the worry of breaking.
    1 point
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