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Density is mass divided by volume or grams per cubic centimeter. If you take a piece of balsa and screw in a screw eye, you can then do the following: Get a container that is big enough to hold the sample , enough water to submerge it, and a gram scale big enough to weigh it all. Because water weighs 1 gram per cc, if you submerge the sample just to the screw eye, you are displacing the amount of water that is equal to the volume of the item. You are also placing exactly one gram of weight on the scale per each cubic centimeter of volume displaced. When you weigh the container, water, you then record it. Then weigh the container, water, the sample submerged to the screw eye, record. Subtract the 1st from the 2nd and you have the volume of the sample. Now, remove the screw eye from the sample and let it dry. Weigh the sample, divide the weight of the sample by the volume of the sample and you have the density of the sample. It is really easier they it sounds, and I see I need to video this stuff and start a YouTube channel again. If it does not make sense, let me know and I will try to do a quick video of it and create a link. Two samples of different materials, of the exact same size, will give the exact same volume as expected. But the weights of the samples will differ. The volumes divided by the weights will work every time. I respect you way way way too much to every tell you that. LOL Not on my wildest day would I do that!

Ok, I’m surely no Mr. Science, and I can see how the dunk test can give you the required weight of a bait to make it suspend in water, but density? It seems to me that a dunk test with a solid lead lure would give you the same results as the same bait made from balsa. If I’ve got my head stuck where the sun don’t shine, just tell me and don’t try to explain ‘cause I’m probably too dense to understand.

I wouldn't worry about the heat bothering the epoxy during vulcanization. I use an epoxy all the time on my master models and have never had a problem. Occasionally, if it is a thin layer of epoxy, it may peel off the master part after it is removed from the vulcanized mold, but at that point it has served it's purpose. If you are thinking that the epoxy is going to lose it's shape or holding power during the vulcanization process, don't worry. Once the mold halves are together in the mold frame and pressure and heat applied, the rubber is encasing the master part and nothing is going to change shape. In your case you are affixing a wire inside a lure body epoxy and it will not be exposed to the rubber anyway. A word of caution. Some things like super glue are not compatible to silicone rubber and the rubber that touches a surface that has super glue on it will not vulcanize. This could be true with the epoxy you may use.

Thank you stankx bait co for offering a microwave safe, metal free divided cup. I didn' have confidence in myself to make sure to microwave proof the metal lol. First try at swirls didn't come out like I'd hoped. They came out mostly left and right colors. I'll pour with the mold at a 90 degree angle differently next time.

Very nice jigs, what head is that? As for thread finish, I use either Loctite super glue brush on when using silicone or rubber skirts and I use Sally Hansen's Hard as Nails clear when I tie hair. The main reason is the clear nail polish leaves a very visible white residue when it dries on silicone. The Sally Hansen's brand clear is what I prefer, it takes a little longer than other brands to get hard so it penetrates deep and so far I haven't had any thread failures.

We were all required to read the rules before making our first post.Rule #3 states that posting pictures in the forums for exhibiting our work is not allowed.Please post such photo's in the appropriate photo gallery. Photos are allowed in the forums if it lends some insight in the discussion....Thank you...Nathan