Leaderboard

I use brass inserts if I'm going to paint them. Before I pour the blade baits, I take the brass blades and lightly sand both side to give the powder paint some bite. After pouring, but before painting, I wipe the blades down with denatured alcohol. Then I paint the heads and body. I use the brush tap method. I get excellent results, where I can multi-color the head and also multi-color the body.

I haven't posted TU in a long time but I saw this post and had to put in my two cents. I have always used wire bender in the pictures below. It's designed for .051 wire but I used a dremel tool with a cut off wheel and opened up both dies enough to fit in the .062. I can bend .062 all day long with this set up, it wraps really well.

I cut them out with a Dremel fitted with a thin fiber reinforced cutoff disk, then use an epoxy putty stick to mount the new lip into the enlarged slot. The putty can fix any rough/gauged areas and cures in about 5 minutes. You have to refinish the bait afterwards. It’s worth trying to simply twist the lip out of the bait before you go to this last resort method. Old baits often have weak enough glue on the lip that a twist will work but be careful. Too much force can break a balsa bait.

This is only way I found to do it, and it still requires some cosmetic touch up and repair of the topcoat. I remove the line tie, and then carefully use a bandsaw to cut a slot down the center of the broken lip, staying away from the actual surfaces where the lip is glued to the bait. I'm just trying to create some working space, not do a final removal. Then I use a drywall knife (box cutter) to carefully pry the left over lip from the bait slot. Once I get the old lip material out, I fit a new lip in, wedge it to the top surface to be sure it fits right, and then glue it in. I reinstall the line tie, and proceed with any cosmetic repairs and recoating. It is slow and time consuming, and still requires lots of repairs prior to being able to fish the lure again. I stopped doing it years ago because I'm lazy.

I think what's really cool is you're doing most of your work with very basic tools... no CNC or high end carving tools.... a band saw, dremel and a box cutter.... awaesome! J.

Absolutely Poor Boys Baits were made by Shawn & Kim, however, they outsourced their tubes so I would imagine that they were made with whatever pigments/dyes the manufacturer used. Only reason I referenced Lureworks is that is what I use as my primary source of pigments/dyes (I do use a select few LureCraft & MF colours)

No, not really. It would "work," but it would be more work for non laminate applications.

Would a dual injector with a blending block work for your needs?

I believe that is incorrect on the masking tape. The 'day' number of the tape indicates the amount of days the tape can supposedly stay on a surface with a 'clean' removal, as long as it is not exposed to sunlight or heat. I use 60 day tape which is very low tack. The lower the 'day' number, the higher the tack, the higher the chance of peeling off the underlying paint. The 60 day tape will have less tack than the 14 day tape. Typical blue painters tape is 14 day tape, relatively high tack. "Scotch 60-Day Ultimate Paint Edge Masking Tape 2480S is a thin, strong, smooth, flat back paper tape that provides straight, sharp paint lines with a low paint ridge, indoors or outdoors. A strong acrylic adhesive holds on contact to most surfaces, yet peels away smoothly and cleanly without residue and fogging, even after 60 days in the sun or temperature exposure of up to 200°F." Scotch Blue Painter's Tape is among the top selling painter's tape in the U.S. for a reason-it's the original blue tape that both pros and DIY painters have loved for more than 25 years. It can be used on a variety of surfaces: walls, trim, glass and metal, and it removes cleanly for up to 14 days and will not cause surface damage within that period, even if it's exposed to direct sunlight."

Dutch Fork Custom Lures has a chroming service for lures. Not cheap $9