Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/17/2018 in all areas

  1. Before getting into bait manufacturing we worked 20 years in the paintball industry. In the early 2000's RP Scherer tried using the corn starch based plastic/gelatin mixture. It worked well, but water would still break down the shell over time just as if they were using straight gelatin. About 8 years ago there was a start up company called Hydrotech that actually developed a plastic that could be used with a full water based fill & not break down. It instead relied on bacteria to naturally break it down. The company lost investors & never made it off the ground but I do know one of the guys that was there during the development. I may have to send him a message & see if he would share what type of plastic they were using.
    2 points
  2. Unfortunately, when it comes to tech I'm a few pixels short of a gigliobyte....glider
    1 point
  3. I had the same issue... I solved it two ways. first run the UV powder through a coffee grinder, then take a small amount of the virgin plastic and shake the uv powder into it, this greatly reduces the amount of clumps you will see. You can do the same thing, without the grinder by adding it to your softener/ worm oil and shaking and adding. good luck!
    1 point
  4. Two identical baits, one cedar and one balsa, both weighted to float the same, they will both weigh the same. The reason for using balsa; is that you can group the weights around the CoG and therefore achieve a wider action. If you spread the weights along the whole length of the balsa bait then you might as well use cedar. A 12" bait could weigh as much as 10ozs and require a ballast of 6ozs to achieve a 10% float. This will require a lot of holes, each hole weakening the bait. Plus you will probably need a through wire system for the hooks. Definitely a good argument for cedar. Dave
    1 point
  5. The stuff you are looking for is in the colorants section of the LureWorks line, called UV-Glo Dye 130
    1 point
  6. btw here is the review that kind of convince me that it was far to be junk IT'S A BEAST ! im seriously totally in love with that model and the brand.i don't have a lot of experience but im 100% sure that you will not find better at that price range
    1 point
  7. hey mark the one that i get from them is a procon ps-290 and to be honest i have not seen yet a single advantage to get an iwata they are both made in japan and maybe after 7 -8 years of use i'll telling you that my eclipse last longer ,but for now seriously visually speaking i didn't see any difference .it's almost like an hp-th at with a difference of almost 300 bucks .it have a fan cap and a regular one so i can spray from 1/16 to 3 inch .but be careful if you have less than 1.2 cfm at 40 psi you will have to wait for your tank to load........it's just .5 mm but with the fan it's almost a spray gun cheers
    1 point
  8. I don't always use a thermometer, especially if I am just doing a few at a time. When you heat raw plastisol, it is milky white. Even if you add color first, it is still milky. I put it in my microwave and heat it for a period of time depending on the amount of plastisol I am heating, then I take it out and mix it. I then put it back in and heat more, then mix again. Repeat as necessary so you are not over heating but also mixing the "hot spots" into the "cool spots". Once it converts from milky to clear, you are good. You don't need to confirm it is at 350 degrees F, because it goes from milky to clear at that temperature anyway. What gets people in trouble is not mixing the raw plastisol first to reverse settling, and not mixing well while heating. Once it converts from milky to clear (you can/should be clear and have color), you can pour or shoot. Most of us shoot at lower temperatures because some molds fill better that way. It is not a requirement. The other thing that gets people in trouble is overheating. Once it is mixed and goes clear, it is done. Overheating will not make it convert more, it only burns it. Mixing well and often is the best preventative to yellowing plastic. Now, reheating previously melted plastic is a little different, but that is another topic.
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...
Top