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User removed. Excessive whining never gets anyone anywhere, especially not here.

I just want to say thanks to all sponsors, creators, moderators, participants, etc on this site. Here you can find several answers to just about any question. Discussions are (usually) carried out in a fun and positive manner. Many of the questions often asked are already covered - so you don't even have to ask! All in all, this is one incredible resource.

Why would you lock my "Glass beads" thread. It was to show people how glass beads works and the results from using them. I would like to think I have helped people here

I'm 70 years old, and I can understand the rule. Basically, any picture that is related to how to solve a problem in a thread is allowed. Otherwise, they should be posted in the appropriate gallery, and a link to them should be posted here.

Most of my shrinkage is due to hot plastic (thank you Frank). Try injecting at lower temps, around 310-315 F, and see if that helps. A thicker bait will shrink more, so also be sure that you keep your mold spru topped off with hot plastic, so it can be drawn down into the mold as the plastic inside cools and wants to shrink.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/search/?&q=dents&search_and_or=or&search_in=titles Welcome to TU. You'll find some info on the subject here ^^^. I went to "Activity", top left corner of screen, drop down to" Search", type in "Dents" and then search and there are 16 results. Dents are a common problem. I think you'll find an answer here^^^^

This is how I make 90% of my vibrating jigs. But, I made a few weedless vibrating jigs using an Arkie mold and wanted a shorter hook so the weedguard would work. I used a regular 60 degree Mustad jig hook and had to open the eye to attach the blade.

LifeTone Hydro - Mist Iridescent Blue https://www.mckenziesp.com/Hydro-Mist-Iridescents-Paints-C3236.aspx

This is like a lure making university here.There is so much valuable information ..I would like to thank all our members...Without you the learning would stop..Nathan

thank you for that I'm not sure why I didn't see that.

Thanks guys. It had three others & it worked fine. I just over reacted a little because of my clumsiness i guess. lol

I use a small hardened probe or punch. 1. put small socket in vise (that will except probe but not to big for hook eye) 2. lightly oil probe 3. put hook eye on top of socket. 4. insert probe into eye. 5. tap with hammer until desired opening ( I prefer a dead blow hammer) 6. attach blade. 7. close eye using vise. this is how I do it but I am sure there other guys that do it a different way.

Took them out yesterday and caught a bunch of smallmouth and largemouth on them in 5-20 feet of water. They work great! Best part-- the trailer stays on.

Has anyone ever used it and hadn't any luck? I like MF and Lurecraft a lot. I have do-it's plastic and never really got turned onto baitjunkys.

OK... here is my 2 cents... First off for the guys trying the FRY DADDY... SCRAP THE IDEA and get a presto pot. Walmart sells them for about $22. DO NOT DRILL the ball valve hole in the side.. It should go on the bottom as close to the heating coil as possible. I use 12 of these pots with great success. I use a 1/4" BRASS ball valve with a BRASS close nipple to secure it to the pot. I grind down the close nipple so it just fits flush to the bottom of the pot... NO WASTE either. NOW.. you have to build something for it to set on.. EASY part. I also made the back part of the pot support higher (on an slope) so the plastic feed to the front where the valve is. ALL my pots regulate the heat perfect. I heat at 400 setting and pour at 325. My valves NEVER clog either. DO NOT USE A BOLT or anything metal to clear the valve. It can damage the ball valve. I use a wooden dowel. This pot is so easy to make and under $30. You do not need to be a mechanical engineer to do this. Takes about 15 minute and works from the get go. If you are having problems.. EMAIL me and I will help you. sinko@sinkobaits.com