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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/23/2018 in all areas

  1. I did this with white pearl and got satisfactory results. I did it as a last ditch effort to complete a small order. As far as I know the color held up (no complaints). I was using a presto pot at the time and when I cleaned the pot for a color change I found a small deposit of paint stuck to the bottom of the pot. Clean up was fairly easy.
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  3. Tim, is it this? http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/15916-pvc-trim-board-shad-swimbait/
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  4. Ya never had good luck with doing that. They are two different products. Can’t say why the Kalins works, they much have a different formula for plastic. One way I did it before was to put a screw lock in the hard bait then glue and twist it on. This was when I was pouring my own tails and using Mf plastic. Many years ago now.
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  5. Devcon works great and can easily be removed with heat.
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  6. I do not know, It's what my injector company is using. Well, on the other hand that means it will soak up some scent.
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  7. Update: I glued a Kalins tail to the bait and it bonded great. It seems that something in the plastic is causing my issue. I will give M-F a call today. Thanks for the input.
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  8. Just FYI, when selecting wood for a crankbait, the main criterion is buoyancy, determined by wood density. Willow's nominal density is 26.2 lbs/cu ft. Yellow poplar has the same density and there are woods like basswood (23), cedar (20), paulownia(16) and others that are less dense and more buoyant. In the end, you want the bait to float the same and behave the same as a L/P. That's more a function of where and how much you ballast the bait, and the finish steps you use to reach the same final weight than it is the wood type, per se.
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