Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/27/2018 in all areas

  1. I agree - the bottles spill a lot when pouring into the airbrush cup it’s so annoying I responded to this issue to Munro on another thread but did. It mentiontbis: You may be dusting the paint on - meaning u r too far away with the airbrush and the paint is drying in the air. I fhave nd about 20psi is best with my setup. It need to go on wet but not too wet or u will get fisheyes. If it is wet the solvents should work it into the plastic. You. An clear coat it for extra durability(see other thread.
    2 points
  2. I mix up my paint into a 4 oz. or 8 oz. plastic bottle to include thinner, retarder or what have you. Then I squeeze what I need into the color cup from the bottle and only have to mess with the can once in a while.
    2 points
  3. UL Spybait Challenge I got an email from a buddy who asked if I could make a UL version of a spinbait for trout fishing in the mountain streams of North Carolina. It seems that Duo Realis discontinued the spinbait 60 and now only makes an 80 and 90mm version. I couldn't even find a 60 but I remembered that I had one. I am a jig and spinnerbait guy, I've never made a hard bodied bait before. I took on the challenge because I felt if I was successful, I'd have a hell of a bluegill/bass bait for my own pond on my property in NC and the rivers I fish here in Florida. How I went about it: I'm not ashamed to admit I made a 1pc mold of the 60 and cut it down to the length I wanted and sanded it to the necessary profile I was looking for. I made both a 1 5/8" and a 2" body. But with that came the issue of properly weighting it so that it would fall flat horizontally with that sexy little shimmy. I needed to add weight to a solid body, not a bait I could assemble from two halves with spots for the weights molded in place. I molded about a dozen bodies and then had to experiment with weighting the baits. I needed the bait to do two things........swim straight without wobble and fall perfectly horizontal with that sexy shimy like a Senko. I drilled a series of small holes ahead of and behind the belly hook and filled them with tungsten powder. I got really lucky and pretty much nailed it with the first two baits I made. Next I mocked up a bait with the screws and hardware I would use to complete the bait to test it. I swam some of the baits in the pool and found that they blew out and rolled if fished too fast. I simply bent the paddles of the lead prop the opposite of the tail prop and this was instantly corrected. The bait fell exactly as I wanted it to and it swam great. I would decide to use Decoy single hook's on the 1 5/8" bait and Gammy trebles on the 2". At about the time I was knee deep in the project, I read on Tackle Tour that Duo made the Tetra Works mini prop which is a ul version of the Spinbait. Despite the bait being rather difficult to acquire, I managed to get one and here is a comparison photo with the 1 5/8" bait I made. Here a few smaller ones @ 1/8oz ready for clear coat. I used my copic air brush to paint them. 2" baits are about 3/16oz. I was going for small in the sense of length and profile. A slightly heavier bait in moving water or deeper water like the quarry pits I fish could be a good thing. These are essentially the finished baits in both 2" and 1 5/8". A couple were also specifically made for deep water. Here is a family tree of the 90mm, 80mm, 60mm and 48mm baits from Duo and a couple of mine.
    1 point
  4. Now Mark just what kind of cold weather do you get in Oakley, CA Try Wisconsin weather from -20 to 90 degrees. Wayne
    1 point
  5. I use a hair dryer shot on the side of the soft plastic epoxy resin bottle to heat it and get it to flow. The hardener is more viscus, so it flows more easily, and I usually don't need to heat it. In cold weather, I do heat both.
    1 point
  6. Yes - VPI is thicker and needs to be thinned with their thinner
    1 point
  7. I bought a pack of the swivels that I linked above. I got to try them out over the last two days when fishing a swim jig in pads and grass up here on Georgian Bay. FYI - They work fantastic!
    1 point
  8. I use Sb Coat and buy big cans of VPI clear and thinner because I mix the two together to make a clear which keeps the paint on really well and gives a shine. I used SBCoat the first season and it held up okay but not nearly as good as with the clear on top you can buy the clear SB but it will be gone quickly. I just mix clear:thinner at 3:1 ratio. If that cobwebs then a thin it a bit until I get the thickest pint bin and spray with minimal or no cobwebs SB Coat is just thinned VPI i don’t have any harness photos and my harness supply is at my workshop. I will try to get pics.
    1 point
  9. Here's the LC link.... http://www.lurecraft.com/Lunker-Scent-CRAB/productinfo/1X216/ You might also try Pro Cure Scents at www.pro-cure.com They have a wide variety of saltwater scents. Never tried their crab scent, but had good luck with Anchovy and Herring. Here's a link to what you might be looking for.... http://pro-cure.com/store/bait-scent-products/scents/oils.html Scroll down to the bottom to see all the choices.
    1 point
  10. 1) Denatured alcohol also be used to clean blanks - it smells better. 2) An airbrush gives you much better control than a rattle can. You can remove most or even all of your scale detail if you are not careful. Cleaning an airbrush between coats can be a s simple as running a little water through it. I currently use a bottom feed, so touch the bottle, remove, empty, repeat. Finally spray it dry while shaking it. It takes seconds. If I feel there is a clog, I back-flush. I am looking to add a second (top feed) brush for more detail. Both will be hooked up and available. My plan on cleaning the top feed it to clean out the cup by spraying water from the first brush into the cup and chasing the paint out of it. Then spraying water through the brush itself. 3) Avoid getting it in the eyes (too much topcoat or not rotating a lure can cause this). You have to seal by the eyes, but use care and remove the excess. A wider brush will apply topcoat more evenly. It can be cleaned with denatured alcohol and wrapped in a paper towel for reuse. The wire thing works great while the epoxy has not set. A toothpick works well also. Mechanically removing set epoxy has to be done with care. Too much pressure can split some low quality blanks.
    1 point
  11. Pearls are like colorant and color the inside of the bait. Hilite adds more of a skin color to the outside of the bait.
    1 point
  12. Polysol is what I use, made the switch and have been happy but....that's is not what you asked Lure craft econo needs to be Degassed, why it's cheaper. If you don't have a Degasser then don't bother. It's a critical step in using that plastic, once Degassed it works fine if you don't have a Degasser then may I suggest Polysol from Baitplastic or Dead on plastics ( Polysol) they mix the plastic in four different formulas finsse, worm, swimbait/ fluke and crawdad, each in different firmness. Great plastic to work with, Polysol needs no degassing at all long winded but I hope this helps
    1 point
  13. Is very common with epoxy. Yes just heat it up. Would not microwave but have heard people do this. I would put in a pot of hot water.
    1 point
  14. I usually just stick mine in the microwave but you need to be careful. It gets really hot and very liquid very quickly. Let it cool back to room temp before using or it will cure too quickly.
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...
Top