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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/01/2018 in all areas

  1. Silicone rubber. A great place to start. There are commercial formulations available from various companies, and some guys right here have used silicone (100% silicone) caulk from the hardware store or big box retailer to make molds. I can't speak to the silicone caulk, but I am very partial to Smooth-On for commercial formulas. I use certain of their products for food molds fairly regularly. They also work great for bait molds. Other guys here prefer Alumilite. I have not used any of their products, but they have a good reputation as well.
    2 points
  2. +1 on Soft Plastic Bait Makers. Great group, but there is a lot of intel right here on TU as well. Sometimes the old members get tired of answering the same questions over and over again, but most are pretty helpful. Just take a little time to search (has the search engine been fixed to index the old stuff yet) to see if you can figure it out first. Then ask more directed and specific questions. You will get much better answers. I suggest starting with one thing you really want to do or perhaps need to do first. Focus on that. When you get a passable result, then ask your self what you need to do next. I want to make baits is perhaps a little overbroad o start with. I need to make a mold so I can make swimbaits is a little more focused and will be slightly less overwhelming. There is still a lot in that, but you can start to pick a path to success with that. Then as you learn it you will be able to branch out into so many other things you can just do if you want to that the choices will be overwhelming again.
    2 points
  3. Killing the cats on these fiberglass bank poles. Easiest and most productive rod I've ever set up. Not your traditional (rod building tutorial, but man do these things work). Thought I'd share how I make them (the way I attach them is a bit unique). I do a quick release line on mine that I think is easier to hang and take off while in the current of a big river. Anyway..... hope someone enjoys this. I set a bunch out tonight and will be getting up early to check'em. Got some trotlines out as well. Found a nice 40 foot hole below a wing dike tonight! Can't wait til morning! Here's the video: https://youtu.be/hJyS1NhDS0A
    1 point
  4. Dude, you really need to use the search feature at the top left under activity. Most of your questions are already answered there. You can also go to Make Lures/Larry Dahlberg on Youtube, and watch some of their plastic bait making videos.
    1 point
  5. Not knowing what it is or where its from my best guess would be when you get to that point try it and see. Other's here have reported poor results using craft store glitter, but you may have gotten lucky Fortunately it will only take you one or two baits to know how it works for you.
    1 point
  6. I had a buddy try similar recipes. You thought Senkos fell apart easy?
    1 point
  7. Check out this facebook page: Soft Plastic Bait Mold Makers
    1 point
  8. Preheating isn't going to really help much with bubbles. Off gassing in regards to chemical reaction can help speed the reaction or drive it to completion however the product we are purchasing should be considered a finished product. With the nature of PVC and wood there are tiny voids/holes in the bait. The PVC product we are using is a cellular PVC meaning they incorporate tiny air bubbles to reduce weight of the product and lower manufacturing costs. When we heat or cool the air in these voids we create a closed system once covered with paint. We essentially have a balloon and the tiny space of air will expand or shrink dependent on temperature. When the paint is wet, not set, or very thin you can get a "pin hole" in the paint surface or you can get a small bulge dependent on if the pressure created is sufficient to overcome the surface tension of the wet paint or the paint elasticity is low enough when a solid to give. Super glue is created to have a low viscosity so it can run into and fill cracks and surface imperfections. Using it prior will seal up the most of holes to eliminate or reduce the issue. Paint can do the same thing just not as good. I usually just use a spray shellac as I find it easier, quicker, and not as messy as super glue and typically do several baits in a sitting. Depending on your paint process and top coat may not even necessary as any voids end up getting filled with paint during the process, just a precaution as nothing better than painting a few baits and applying a topcoat to find a small pinhole or bubble on the finished bait. That's when super glue can save be of service again as a little dab and it can fill/seal those imperfections.
    1 point
  9. Check out makelure.com and check out their videos. It is the best place (for videos) I know of for the basics of plastic or resin lure making in one place. Making lures is never cheep to get started and there is a learning process. But, once you get the basics mastered, it can keep the price down and the satisfaction level up.
    1 point
  10. I am just a hobby pourer, but I don't look for the cheapest stuff, I look for what works. It's like glue in furniture carpentry. A glue might be more expensive, but you use relatively little in the actual construction, and if a glue joint fails, you've wasted all your labor, and that is the most expensive part of the piece. The same is true with making baits. I'd recommend you start with one of the suppliers who sponsor this site, and see if their products work for you. Then you can find out what successful pourers use, and why, and decide if you want to switch, based on what your needs are. People who make and sell baits can't afford product failures, so they use stuff that works for them every time.
    1 point
  11. Are you checking your temperature over heating can cause more bubbles . I have not used Lureworks Plastic but i have had some that was very bad with bubbles. As of now i am using Bait junkys Plastisol it does very well with low bubbles i have even tried the medium that is not degassed and it is good also. I think he sold out to someone else but it still on the market. One thing u can fix u a vacuum system anything from a full blown system to putting 4 oz in a sealed container and using a hand vacuum pump, get a rubber plug drill a hole thru the center find a cylinder it fits and use the hand vacuum pump let set with vacuum on for a few min it will be degassed!! If it stills has bubbles it is the plastisol. Cub48
    1 point
  12. I've used Worth swivels and rings since 2005 and never had any issue. I also purchase the swivels and rings separately from Worth and put the rings on the swivels myself so a lot of rings get opened twice and never a problem.
    1 point
  13. Does anyone know where I might find a mold of a real shad 1.5 up to 4.0 inches?
    1 point
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