Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/15/2018 in all areas

  1. I have deleted all posts related to selling lures and excise taxes. The forums are not for selling! If you have lures for sale, feel free to post them in the classifieds section. Also, the debate about excise tax isn't appropriate unless the post is specifically about taxes. Baiting a user so you can gripe and rant is unnecessary.
    1 point
  2. The vibration from the lures didn't mess up the image. I tried some spinnerbaits, cranks, jigs and got good images from all of them. The tube-shape of the camera keeps it stable. On some lures, I couldn't feel any vibration in the rod. The camera comes in straight and dampens any feel in the rod tip. There were times when a bass slapped at the lure and knocked it to the side a few inches and I had no clue until I saw the footage. When you hook a decent fish, the camera can swing around some during the fight. It makes for some dizzying footage. Just make sure the line to the camera is way stronger than the leader to lure. I used a somewhat of loose drag and didn't hammer home my hook-sets. I was more interested in the footage and wanted to reduce the risk of line/knot failure from a shock/impact. I would use a net or have a partner land the fish. Boat flipping is not a good idea. Using the in-line set up works best. The lure was always in the shot. I also tried casting just the camera weighted to sink to a bed, rock pile, other object and let it sit there. Then, I threw a lure on a second rod to where the camera is. You can make it float and point down and retrieve lures under the camera on a second rod. The 2 rod technique is hit or miss as to whether you get the lure in the shot unless at close range I also just rigged the camera on a pole to see what was under docks and boats. I had it at a 90 degree angle to the pole, held it over the side, and slowly drove down a shore lined with docks to see what was underneath. You do have to get fairly close to the docks ends due to shadows. I would try it first in a clear lake. You will have gauge leader length based on clarity. Make sure you keep track of the leader lengths you use and the conditions so you know what is best to use in a given situation. It's a bit of a learning experience. I did not have much luck using the camera near weeds. The camera seemed to collect a lot of weeds. Long stringy weeds are guaranteed to ruin a shot.
    1 point
  3. I have used a Water Wolf as well. I throw it on a swimbait rod with 80 lb. braid to the camera. The camera I used weighed a bit over 2 ounces. Off the lens end of the camera, I tied a mono or flour 18-24 inch leader to the bait. The length of the leader depends on water clarity. You have to use heavy gear to cast the camera and to make sure you don't lose the camera. Occasionally, an aggressive fish, like a pike or big pickerel, will pass the lure and strike the camera. It really is something to see. The different ways fish strike a bait is cool to see. It also nice that you get to see fish approach and turn away. It's great to troll a bait on this set up so you can see what the bottom structure looks like.
    1 point
  4. Hey guys.....new to the site. I am a Safety Supervisor for a large Maintenance Org. I would suggest looking into the MSDS. My groups are wearing the 3M 7500 series. 85% of people wear the 7502 (medium). We have went this style because of the modular construction for cleaning and better seal with new material. I Fit Test our employees and the most important concern is a tight comfortable seal. The P-100 filter is the most common filter but we work out of 83 different factories currently and conditions on MSDS dictates the filter based on work task.......Always be safe and research the MSDS for recommendations. Go with Half-Mask vs. the paper 85N or 95P.
    1 point
  5. deadlystreamer, Thanx - excellent reading
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...
Top