The vibration from the lures didn't mess up the image. I tried some spinnerbaits, cranks, jigs and got good images from all of them. The tube-shape of the camera keeps it stable. On some lures, I couldn't feel any vibration in the rod. The camera comes in straight and dampens any feel in the rod tip. There were times when a bass slapped at the lure and knocked it to the side a few inches and I had no clue until I saw the footage. When you hook a decent fish, the camera can swing around some during the fight. It makes for some dizzying footage.
Just make sure the line to the camera is way stronger than the leader to lure. I used a somewhat of loose drag and didn't hammer home my hook-sets. I was more interested in the footage and wanted to reduce the risk of line/knot failure from a shock/impact. I would use a net or have a partner land the fish. Boat flipping is not a good idea.
Using the in-line set up works best. The lure was always in the shot.
I also tried casting just the camera weighted to sink to a bed, rock pile, other object and let it sit there. Then, I threw a lure on a second rod to where the camera is. You can make it float and point down and retrieve lures under the camera on a second rod. The 2 rod technique is hit or miss as to whether you get the lure in the shot unless at close range
I also just rigged the camera on a pole to see what was under docks and boats. I had it at a 90 degree angle to the pole, held it over the side, and slowly drove down a shore lined with docks to see what was underneath. You do have to get fairly close to the docks ends due to shadows.
I would try it first in a clear lake. You will have gauge leader length based on clarity. Make sure you keep track of the leader lengths you use and the conditions so you know what is best to use in a given situation. It's a bit of a learning experience. I did not have much luck using the camera near weeds. The camera seemed to collect a lot of weeds. Long stringy weeds are guaranteed to ruin a shot.