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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/10/2018 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    Here is the way I see it. You just have to worry about yourself. You cannot stop what you are talking about. So you just need to do it better than everyone else. It is not an easy thing to do. Being the best never is. Bottom line is.....How bad you want it? Skeeter
  2. 5 points
    LOL! Paint patterns or schemes cannot be owned by any one person or company. I find it ironic that a custom painter is complaining about someone ripping off his paint scheme, when he is putting that scheme on knock-off lures ripped off from other manufacturers.
  3. 5 points
    The perfect topcoat is fish saliva..
  4. 5 points
    Maybe this will help out a little... These are ones I have tested and found the fit acceptable.
  5. 4 points
    Hello, I don’t post near as much as I used to, but am still here every couple days. I saw the new thread about the JR Hopkins DVD and I started thinking about the past of TU. I wonder if we shouldn’t have a “Lost and Found” sticky for formerly active members? More to let us know they’re okay, and just not into building, or having a difficult time, or whatever. Similarly, perhaps we should have a “In Memoriam” sticky. I know we unfortunately have had multiple threads in the past about Members who have passed, but they’re hard to find if you don’t know to look. Maybe each could have a link to the thread (if there was one), a link to their posts (as a way of honoring their contribution to the hobby) and a comments section. Craig
  6. 4 points
    I cataloged all mine in a spreadsheet, printed out a list, had them closed on shelves with the number on the end of the wood handle showing so I could find it on my list, then looked for the number of handle. I had the shelves with numbers so I had location numbers on my list and still couldn't find what I was looking for when I needed a mold. so I put them on peg board .The pic of my molds takes up a lot of room but at least if can find what I am looking for. and while looking for a mold i'll see one that i forgot i had, so that is helpful.
  7. 4 points
    Or you could be like me. Add hardener, then find out it's too hard, then add softener, then too soft, repeat......
  8. 4 points
    I have started receiving complaints from TU members about business owners, tackle supply retailers, lure parts companies and others spending time here in the forums with a single motive; selling TU members their goods or services. This message serves as notice to everyone that this will STOP here and now! TU is not a venue for ANYONE to spend time hanging out here, trying to sell their products to people. It is a place where people come to learn from other lure makers. Any company who has people here and is actively soliciting TU members, be forewarned that your accounts are in danger of being permanently banned! I don't take this lightly and you shouldn't either! So if you happen to be one of those people who has been becoming more active here for the sole purpose of trying to reel in new customers, put an end to it now. If you want to share your knowledge with others without mentioning your company and without offering to "help" them with their problem by offering to sell them something, then feel free to continue to to participate here. I will be keeping a close eye on this and TU members will also be watching and if they see anything going on that is outside of these guidelines, it will be passed along to me. Once again, accounts of guilty parties will be permanently banned if this continues after today!
  9. 4 points
    If I had a nickel for how many times I've seen "new lure finish" in the last 18 years........... Well lets just say I wouldnt be making $8 fishing lures
  10. 4 points
    The only thing I can add is that I read somewhere (can't remember where) that using wooden stir sticks can introduce bubbles into your epoxy when mixing. I use a metal rod bent into a shepherds stick shape and seem to have a lot lot less problems with my epoxy than a lot of guys do. Ben
  11. 3 points
    I have that mold & it shoots great. It's a great choice.
  12. 3 points
    But do you have lures you can’t even duplicate yourself lol I also don’t worry because I know people maybe able to create lures that look a like easily but it’s going to take someone with brains to re create the action
  13. 3 points
    Bassmaster - Part of this is down to the beauty of the internet. Anyone can learn a skill far quicker and efficiently than they ever could 20 years ago with hundreds of videos available on any subject. This makes many people who had to learn the hard way bitter on the whole subject. I came across this attitude when I first joined TU, I was told to put the work in. I think quick and efficient learning is a very good thing. The question that you should be asking is 'what is the definition of a custom lure'. For most people, custom means slapping a coat of paint on a cheap Chinese imported blank and selling it on Ebay. My definition of a custom lure; to design and build a lure for a single customer with a specific set of requirements, size, action, depth, shape and paint job. A design that is not or is no longer available commercially. Custom could well be just the paint job, but the customer would send you the lure and request a certain pattern and set of colours. If you obtain 500 blanks, paint them with a few of your own best patterns and put them up on Ebay, these are simply lures for sale, and definitely NOT custom lures for sale. I too am disappointed about the whole 'custom' thing. You, because now everyone can encroach on your 'custom' business. Me, because the whole art of lure design and building has been devalued to the point of neglect. Just like calligraphy, lure design is a dying art. I actually own an Iwata but have never opened the box, it has never seen a drop of paint. All my lures are painted white, purely for visibility, to allow me to examine the movement. If I ever bring a lure to market, which might happen soon, it will be painted black. As a compromise, I might make blanks available, probably not on second thoughts. I don't believe in paint as a fish attraction, I believe it is all about movement. Dave
  14. 3 points
    I think you will find, denting is a combo of gates and venting in hand molds. I have took my exact senco mold, and eliminated half of the venting and it dented to beat hell. I think this is the issue you will find with this mold is the venting is insufficient. Now we can argue about venting all day, But don't expect me to argue back, As I know what works for us..
  15. 3 points
    I made some rattles using brass tubing they sell in short lengths at Ace Hardware and other hardware stores. It is very thin wall and helps reduce the added weight of the rattle and still have the metal chamber. I learned it here or on another lure tutorial site. Cut the tubing with a hack saw the length you want the rattle chamber but do not cut all the way through. Now cut the tubing off about one tubing diameter past your first two cuts. Now you have one length of tubing with two cuts that are not quite all the way through. Cut the two end pieces length wise so that you can bend the tubing open and flatten the two end pieces with a hammer or pliers. Fold the flattened end piece over the end of your rattle chamber, put your rattles in, bend the other flattened end and you have your rattle chamber. Hope that makes sense.
  16. 3 points
  17. 3 points
  18. 3 points
    And we both know that in reality, the fish don't care near as much as we do... LOL
  19. 3 points
    http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Screw-Eyes/Stainless-Screw-Eyes.html 1/2 inch lenght probably the common length used for bass cranks. A properly glued line/hook tie will hold just as well as a screw eye. You can also make your own twist eyes if you want also. That takes away the adhesion issue as you now are anchoring the tie into the glue. So glue strength one variable and then the other is wood/glue bond strength. The epoxies and super glues typically used are stronger than the wood so your crank will give out first.
  20. 3 points
    Above is all good info and let me add my 2ct worth with some colors such as chartreuse or florescence you need to cook the plastic with the colorant added to cold plastic or some color tend to chaulk and not be as vivid as it should be. Me personally I use a thermometer for gauging the temp it guarantees my consistency .With that said you can judge it by looks with time under your belt but , it is best practice to use a thermometer . You can get close by judging but you don’t want to find out the hard way you were 10 degrees under target temp and your baits start doing weird things and you waste your hard earned money and time on baits that end up in the trash . Also welcome to the fold ! There’s a lot of good info here and it will save you a lot of foible in the long run. tight lines!
  21. 3 points
    Here is my version of helping hand tool for holding lures for painting. The bearing holds the pin vise and lets you turn it freely while painting, The pvc is not glued so you can move it to different positions.
  22. 3 points
    Yeah, thanks. I realized what a stupid question that was after I thought about it, pouring it back in, if I could would be a disaster. I tried dipping today in a narrow glass and it worked pretty well using less that 3/4 of a cup. The bait colors didn't leak into it much so it should be good for a few more dips.
  23. 3 points
    The Clearasol you use to dip the baits will firm up just like the swim bait.. DO NOT pour it back in the bottle..After it cools it will be a chunk . Save it for the next time you dip . When ready to remelt cut it up into small chunks and add a little fresh to it and remelt then dip again.
  24. 3 points
    Here’s my latest jig Build. Robster Craw I’d love to know what everyone thinks.
  25. 3 points
    Maybe you are pulling too hard on the first wrap? I make two turns around the bucktail clump, then add tension by pulling the bobbin from under , while holding the hair. After I can let go of the hair and make harder wraps.
  26. 3 points
  27. 3 points
    Also, it is a nice jig. 2 and 1/2 tabs is a full skirt for me. Your colors are nice and the hand tying is attention to detail. I like it.
  28. 3 points
    Some mold makers will do that, some won't. Looking at the various websites you will see that some designs are much more refined than others....
  29. 3 points
    If I had a $1 for every time someone told me that a particular lure was the only consistent fish catcher.... Well lets just say I would have a Lear jet in my driveway.
  30. 3 points
    Yeah, brain tumors and hurricanes will do that to you. You guys are unreal sometimes...
  31. 3 points
    This pic may help with showing how I do the line tie in the lip of a bait. No way the line tie is coming loose unless the lip comes out of the bait. That lip is a 1/2 inch deep into the nose of the bait. Hope this helps
  32. 3 points
    Before you buy from Amazon try Dick Blicks better price and buy enough with paint or double your order get free shipping. Wayne
  33. 3 points
    When you paint a jig with it and you see all one color, don't get excited. The first time I used gold veined paint I was disappointed as the jigs looked like plain gold. I figured they were painted so I'll cure them and maybe add some GP or watermelon and make roadkill out of it. Well after I took them out of the oven they looked great, and so don't judge your jig until after it is cured, that is when the veins really come out.
  34. 3 points
    Only thing I have to add to this is those baits look great. Allen
  35. 3 points
    It's like the perfect husband. All my ex-wives said it doesn't exist, but they love it at first, till they found out about the handling issues. Hahaha
  36. 3 points
    I've probably said this a million times and like sallmouthaholic said " don't quit your day job". This isn't meant for me to get rich off of. I have a full time job for that. This is my way of relaxing, talk to a lot of fishermen and learn what the latest tactics are to improve my fish catching . The money I make from this, I would starve and be poor if this was my only source of income. This is a hobby and that's all it is to me. Some days you have a good days pouring and you think you made money, other days, you want to quit and forget about the whole process. Luckily, there are more good days than bad days. All said and done if I figure everything that it costs me to operate, I'm better off working at McDonalds. If they raise the pay to $15/ per hour, I'd definitely be better off.
  37. 3 points
    I use this one http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Mold-Insert-Components/Wire-Weedguard.html https://www.barlowstackle.com/Wire-Weed-Guard-P3836.aspx
  38. 3 points
    also do not over heat
  39. 3 points
    Dave is an awesome man, living nearby I was blessed to be able to run to his shop and pick up small amounts of material when needed. I enjoyed great conversations and learned alot about his start and place in the business. He always made me feel welcomed and helped me with many thoughts or ideas. His illness did start to get the best of him and two major floods did not help. I still have many of his supplies and will regret not being able to go visit him to get more. Not for the supplies really but the visit which meant so much more.
  40. 3 points
    If you are going to continue what was being done before with the same plastic then there is no question about having to degass. Many guys want it done. Is it another step yes for for you. Will it take time yes. Will it cost you more money to get the equipment to do it yes. But that is what it will take to carry on what was done before. I have been doing it for myself for years and for me it was a no brainer to get my own equipment. I have told anyone who wants to do it how to and even posted a picture of my set up here before. But some will not want to do it and it is up to you to acomidate them or send them to another supplier that does it for them. I don’t know what the sales ratios of degassed to standard sale were but if you don’t offer it then in my mind you are loosing out. You must be open to what others want and change if necessary. It is not weather you see a benefit in it it is if your customer does. Already on this post people have given another supplier that does this for them. Do you want to lose even more customers?
  41. 3 points
    Dang! Please return the four dozen swimbaits I just sent you to foil for me. Hahaha
  42. 3 points
    MORE ON MOLD MAKING To make a mold one has to have something to mold. Most all of my bait designs were to make a bait that fits one of the Do-It leaded molds. I start with two pieces of 0.032 brass shim stock. These are fastened togeather with double sided cellophane tape. The outline of the bait is then sawed, filed , etc. your satisfaction. The body of the bait are then made up of 1/32 strips of basswood glued together to the thickness required. Each 1/32 strip is coated with a color before gluing. This will facilitate shaping the body. When the body is finished The model is then separated into the two halves and mounted into the cavity. Sprues are the added and your are ready to mold. Most of my molds are made with polyurethane resin [ RC-3, VAC50, specialty resin.com]. I usually make a dozen bait molds of each design. This only a hobby for me and I don't sell baits. Usually make baits 2 or 3 times a year or as required.
  43. 3 points
    A easy adjustable balast I learned and used just yesterday is lead solder wire. Especially on your first few baits, get it initially where you want it and then cater to water temp, line material, hook weight, distribution, etc with the use of lead solder around the hook shanks. A smaller diameter solder shouldn't affect hook ups too bad. I just used this on a floater jerkbait to make it slow sink in cold water. Another plus is its cheaper than suspend dots. So many possibilities!
  44. 3 points
    Well its a copy of my original table rock shad but I'll give it a shot. I use lacquer paint and I know most don't so I'll just use general color names. 1. cover white entire lure. 2. mix white with a small amount of chartreuse for sides. 3. mix deep violet with a small amount of red. 4. pearl white belly. 5. black dot.
  45. 3 points
    Here is the color that the stuff I use from smooth on is.
  46. 3 points
    The joy of this hobby is there are no rules when making what you want.
  47. 3 points
    Be patient. I told my partners when you own your own business, you only have to work 1/2 a day. Just pick what 12 hours you want to work. Just dont try to grow to fast, take your time.
  48. 3 points
    Hey guys, I am the developer of ClearSHield HD, the new finish Jim is referring to. I'm happy to answer any questions regarding the product, but I don't want to do so without the blessing of the owners of the board. I sent an email or two a few weeks ago about a board sponsorship, but never received a response. Looking forward to getting to know you guys, Best Regards, Andy Dear Axis Outdoor Company
  49. 3 points
    Looks like a laminate to me. Clear plastic with some glitter on one side, light watermelon and a light brown on the other.
  50. 3 points
    At Rowhunter's suggestion, I'm starting a PVC thread. I use it for all my lure building, for the following reasons: It is totally waterproof, so I can shape a lure, and then test float and ballast it without any sealing. I have a 3 gallon bucket of water in my driveway that I use for test floating. It is buoyant. The Azek PVC decking is as buoyant as poplar, a hardwood I used to build my jointed swimbaits from. The Azek trimboard is even more buoyant, like medium density balsa. I can make really active shallow cranks with it. It is strong. The decking is as strong as any wood, for lure building, and the trimboard, although not as dense, is still plenty strong enough for any crank. And I use it for my smaller two piece jointed lures, too. I caught a 7lb largemouth with a PVC trimboard spybait I made that was 4" long, but only 7/16" thick, and I had drilled several 3/16" holes up from the belly for my ballast. She ate the rear hook, and the bait held up fine. Both are strong enough to hold screw eyes with just a small pilot hole. No need for any reinforcement, or setting into holes filled with epoxy. I usually use the gap filling/brush on super glue alone to set my hardware, and a lot times my bills, too. I use the accelerant (thank you Ben) dripped onto the glue to help it set quickly, once things are positioned. It machines and carves well. Although the sanding dust is nasty, because it sticks to everything, including my sinuses, PVC is easily machined and shaped with the same tools I used for wood. As with any work, sharp tools work best. I cut out my bait profile, and lip slot, with a bandsaw, and try to drill any ballast hole while the bait has the flat sides, so I can drill straight holes with my drill press. I use an oscillating belt sander with an 80 grit belt to do my major shaping, working from a centerline I put on the bait after I've sanded the bandsaw marks off. I "carve" details with a dremel sanding drum, and drill out my eyes with a multi-spur bit on a drill press. I typically sand down from 80 grit to 120 grit with a vibrator sander, and finish up with a small piece of sandpaper to get edges and details softened. Because it has no direction-oriented grain, it carves really well with sharp tool. It can be laminated into bigger lure blanks using the same PVC glue plumbers use for PVC pipe, or you can use super glue. If you use both the PVC primer and the glue, the two pieces actually melt into one solid piece. As long as the two surfaces are flat and mate, you're good to go. It paints well. I can shoot Wicked White as a base coat onto a raw PVC bait, heat set it, and never have any separation problems with my paint schemes. When I've had occasion to remove some paint to modify a bait, I've had to sand down to the PVC to get the paint off. It never peels. Occasionally, heat setting too hot can cause trapped air to bubble up under the seal coat, so I generally seal baits by rubbing crazy glue, or thinned epoxy, over them before I paint, if I want a super smooth bait. But any bubbles that do appear can be popped by the sharp tip of an exacto knife, and they lay right back down when I press them with my exacto knife handle. I've never had any baits with popped bubbles fail. And, because it is totally waterproof, I don't have to worry about nicks and scuffs from rocks and hooks. Any top coat works. I've used epoxies, urethanes, and concrete sealers, with no problems. In short, it make lure building faster and easier, and that make it even more fun, so why I use it.
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