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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/10/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    NWBass, I'm coming into the conversation a little late, so I apologize for that (took a few days off for spring break with the kids!). I'm sorry you're having issue with the split rings you purchased from us. As many here have already suggested, there's definitely some technique to putting these together. I've built more than I can count, and I still semi-regularly end up with sprung split rings. A couple of suggestions that haven't already been covered: Consider using narrow opening split ring pliers. These are widely available online, including from us, many of our competitors, and from Amazon. The lower jaw on these pliers extends past the downward point of the upper jaw (think underbite), making it far more difficult to overextend your split rings. Basically, they limit how far you can open your split rings. I use these almost exclusively when building chatterbaits. When I'm building these, I use two pairs of split ring pliers (or, depending on what I have on hand, a pair of split ring pliers and a small pair of round nose pliers). The technique is difficult to describe, but, basically, I use the narrow opening split ring pliers to get the ring started on the blade, then, while using the narrow opening pliers to keep the split ring open, I'll use the other pair of pliers to rotate the split ring onto the blade. Not sure that makes sense, but I've found it far easier to maneuver/rotate the ring/blade this way without overextending the ring. Maybe I'm just losing dexterity as I age! If you like, PM me your order info (order number and/or email address) and I'll double check to make sure we sent you the right rings. It's possible another style of split ring slipped in there (stainless steel would be a nightmare on these). We'll do what we can to make things right. Thanks, and good fishing! Matt Barlow
  2. 4 points
    I have started receiving complaints from TU members about business owners, tackle supply retailers, lure parts companies and others spending time here in the forums with a single motive; selling TU members their goods or services. This message serves as notice to everyone that this will STOP here and now! TU is not a venue for ANYONE to spend time hanging out here, trying to sell their products to people. It is a place where people come to learn from other lure makers. Any company who has people here and is actively soliciting TU members, be forewarned that your accounts are in danger of being permanently banned! I don't take this lightly and you shouldn't either! So if you happen to be one of those people who has been becoming more active here for the sole purpose of trying to reel in new customers, put an end to it now. If you want to share your knowledge with others without mentioning your company and without offering to "help" them with their problem by offering to sell them something, then feel free to continue to to participate here. I will be keeping a close eye on this and TU members will also be watching and if they see anything going on that is outside of these guidelines, it will be passed along to me. Once again, accounts of guilty parties will be permanently banned if this continues after today!
  3. 4 points
    If I had a nickel for how many times I've seen "new lure finish" in the last 18 years........... Well lets just say I wouldnt be making $8 fishing lures
  4. 4 points
    The only thing I can add is that I read somewhere (can't remember where) that using wooden stir sticks can introduce bubbles into your epoxy when mixing. I use a metal rod bent into a shepherds stick shape and seem to have a lot lot less problems with my epoxy than a lot of guys do. Ben
  5. 3 points
    I have posted this here because only searching minds would find it. Everyone who ever built his/her own lure, strives to come up with something original, game changing, name in lights, millionaire. There is nothing wrong with dreams, and they are actually possible. You do not need a doctorate or a PHd to have an original game changing idea. I am a perfect example; I have only a humble HND qualification in aeronautical engineering, but I figured out one of the massive enigmas; what the function of fish scales was. Unfortunately, I was not the first to make this discovery, but I did make it independently. I also have other ideas not fishing related that are not proven as yet. My point is that you do not have to be scientifically qualified to make life changing discoveries. As members of the relatively uneducated masses, we have the same level of imagination as the geniuses of this world. Without the constraints of conformity, we have no rules to adhere to. Being a scientist or an expert is a distinct disadvantage. All we have to do is recognize a problem, a deficiency, an improvement, or in our case, a different lure action that will catch fish. One of my biggest bug-bears is people who tell us that there is nothing new, it has all been done before, and you are re-inventing the wheel. This is just not true. I am continually amazed at what past lure designers have come up with, but only now, in this technological age, are we starting to understand how things work. Fluid dynamics is a BIG statement, the study of which requires a mathematical mind of a genius. BUT, the understanding of the basic principles only requires the viewing of a few YouTube videos, no math required. Search for ‘vortex’, ‘vortex street’, ‘Kármán vortex street’, view the videos and you will already have the knowledge required to invent your new lure. Every lure’s action can be explained by vortex technology. Understand vortex technology and you are on your way. ‘Trial and error’ has always been the way with fishing lure design, but it does not have to be that way. The chances of hitting on a solution with trial and error are infinitely small compared with having the simple knowledge of vortex technology. Vortices are the driving force behind ALL fishing lures. Figure out the basics (not difficult) and then apply the knowledge to what you want to achieve (or talk to me). Dave
  6. 3 points
    Yeah, thanks. I realized what a stupid question that was after I thought about it, pouring it back in, if I could would be a disaster. I tried dipping today in a narrow glass and it worked pretty well using less that 3/4 of a cup. The bait colors didn't leak into it much so it should be good for a few more dips.
  7. 3 points
    The Clearasol you use to dip the baits will firm up just like the swim bait.. DO NOT pour it back in the bottle..After it cools it will be a chunk . Save it for the next time you dip . When ready to remelt cut it up into small chunks and add a little fresh to it and remelt then dip again.
  8. 3 points
    Are you tying on a treble hook? If so how big and are you trying to tie a clump of hair in one spot so you can add another color in a different area? I'm asking the last part because I normally want the hair to go around evenly unless I'm wanting to keep colors separated. For a treble hook you need to tie on the flat spots first and then pinch the hair as close as you can to the ends. Then make 2 or 3 loose wraps, just tight enough to hold the hair in place and then make another wrap but make it tight. The loose wraps will keep the hair from moving completely around the hook but "loose" is a relative term, it takes practice until you develop the feel for it. You want the wraps loose enough that the hair doesn't work around the hook but tight enough that when you make the tight wrap the previous wraps hold the hair in that spot.
  9. 3 points
    Maybe you are pulling too hard on the first wrap? I make two turns around the bucktail clump, then add tension by pulling the bobbin from under , while holding the hair. After I can let go of the hair and make harder wraps.
  10. 3 points
    I have been making plastics for a couple of years now. I just want all to know how I feel that this Forum is filled with great facts and everyone on here seems to get along great!! Thanks a bunch!!
  11. 3 points
  12. 3 points
    I put mine in a toaster oven set at like 150-200 degrees. I only leave it in for a couple minutes and also pre-heat my molds that way to. Work awesome in the winter when the garage is in the 30s-40s.
  13. 3 points
    Also, it is a nice jig. 2 and 1/2 tabs is a full skirt for me. Your colors are nice and the hand tying is attention to detail. I like it.
  14. 3 points
    Some mold makers will do that, some won't. Looking at the various websites you will see that some designs are much more refined than others....
  15. 3 points
    This article offers up a hypothesis (unproven theory) of a triple point in fishing lure design that will result in the most erratic action usually associated with ‘hunting’, a zigzag motion, often observed in lures when retrieved at just the right speed. It is a complex and technical article, and as with a lot of my stuff; a difficult read. If you don’t understand any of it then ask questions, but don’t knock it, I am doing my best. Triple point is most commonly known in the field of metallurgy; a particular combination of variables such as temperature, pressure etc. that enables a metal to pass from a solid to a gas directly, totally skipping the liquid phase. The three forms; solid, liquid and gas all occur at the same point, hence triple point. I believe that there is a similar point in lure design. The variables that control this ‘triple point’ are the same variables that we adjust when designing any crank-bait lure; lip length, lip width, tow eye position, body shape, ballast location in ‘X’ direction (length), ballast location in ‘Z’ direction (depth). Buoyancy of body material and hardware location also play their respective parts as always. Also playing its part in the search for the ‘triple point’ is ‘resonant frequency’. Regular hunting – I published the theory of hunting 9th April 2017 ‘Hunting Cranks - Theory, Design and Build’. Here I outlined what is happening when a lure hunts and how to achieve this condition. You could refer to the point at which hunting occurs as a transition point between pitch (porpoising) and yaw (waggle). But this is not entirely true. It is simply the point when the swimming lip angle reaches/passes 90 degrees to the water flow, at which point the lure stops waggling and starts to porpoise. The transition is where waggle and porpoising are mixed together. This condition is easily achieved simply by making the lip too long and trimming back until the lure just starts to waggle. The transition is not a precise point. The position through this ‘transition’ that you trim the lip to, will determine the qualities of the hunt; slow wide hunt through to rapid shallow hunt. Back in 2007 when I first started working on the hunting project, I did stumble upon the triple point totally by accident. I can only describe the action as wild. Unfortunately the lure was butchered by me to make another adjustment, but I was unable to reproduce the action. At that time, I had not discovered what was actually causing the hunt, let alone the triple point. I had theories that turned out to be partially correct, namely the transition between pitch and yaw. After seeing the ‘wild’ action, I also speculated on the triple point, but was unable to figure it out for a build. Ironically, I had stumbled upon a lure with a slow ‘S’ motion rather than a waggle when experimenting with some weird designs. I didn’t figure out was going on, what was causing this lazy ‘S’ motion until yesterday. Actually not a transition like I suspected, but caused by resonant frequency. Resonant Frequency (RF) – this is what causes panels to vibrate on your vehicle when it travels at a certain speed, causing that irritating ‘buzz’ that you can never quite locate. RF is also what keeps architects awake at night. RF can cause buildings and bridges to collapse. One of the most famous incidents involving RF was the Tacoma bridge disaster. The frequency of the lure, the speed at which it waggles, is determined by the speed at which the alternating vortices form behind the lip, controlled by the width of the lip. A narrow lip produces faster alternating vortices, a wider lip produces slower vortices. The ability of the lure to roll is controlled by the ballast ‘Z’ location (height). To understand roll, think of a pendulum, a swinging weight on the end of a piece of string. The longer the piece of string, the slower the pendulum swings. The string can be shortened so that the roll period (back and forth time) is extremely fast. The ideal length of the piece of string is that which gives a pendulum period equal to that of the lip vortices. This ideal pendulum speed is called the resonant frequency of the lure, and will give the best waggle/roll combination. At resonant frequency the roll and the waggle enhance each other, and this causes the lure to ‘blow out’, so not ideal after all. As the length of the hypothetical string increases from the ideal length, the ability of the lure to roll is in conflict with the vortex speed, thus the lure roll is inhibited. There comes a point where the vortex period is 3X the roll period. At this point, the roll and the vortices are in line with each other again, and resonant frequency is once again achieved. But this time the roll period is 1/3rd the period of the RF ‘blow-out’ frequency. It is at this point that I believe the wild action occurs, when the period of the zigzag aligns exactly with the 1/3rd RF of the roll. My next step is to prototype for this ‘S’ motion. I must then combine this with the regular hunt geometry. This combination should give me the ‘wild’ action that I witnessed all those years ago. This combination of geometry I would refer to as the ‘Triple point Hunt’, a combination of the tuned pitch/yaw transition with the 1/3rd RF of the roll. And so, although Mark Poulson was correct when he said that he suspected ballast height may well be the trigger to cause an erratic hunt, the solution is actually to lower the ballast to find the 1/3rd RF, or even lower to find the 1/5th RF. However, this is not enough. The position in the pitch/roll transition must also be tuned to the 1/3rd RF. Once this balance has been achieved, the width of the zigzag will be enhanced by the 1/3rd RF roll, the roll will be enhanced by the vortex waggle, and the lure will really start to dance. My intention is to build a prototype with an adjustable ballast, to tune in to the 1/3rd RF roll, and find the best ‘S’ motion. I will then adjust the lip length to match the hunting zigzag period with the 1/3rd RF roll. This should result in the ‘wild’ action of the Triple Point Hunter. Once the wild hunt is found, a body can be designed to contain the ballast. This is probably going to result in a lot more prototype attempts and a rather weird looking body. Actually, when all the relevant periods are perfectly aligned, a wide, regular hunt should result, but if the periods are close and not perfectly aligned, then a wild, irregular motion should result. As with such a build, such precise alignment would be difficult, and so the wild action will be the most likely outcome. From what I remember of the ‘S’ swimming prototype, there was no visible waggle, just the pure ‘S’ motion. In theory, if the periods are perfectly tuned, there should be a visible waggle 3X faster than the ‘S’ motion. More possibilities will be available by tuning to different harmonics; The lip waggle is the first RF harmonic, the pitch/yaw could be tuned to the third RF harmonic, and the ‘S’ motion tuned to the 5th RF harmonic. This would produce a really weird swimming action, but first thing’s first, let’s not get too far ahead of ourselves. Thinking about it, what I saw all those years ago, may well have been this 1/3/5 harmonic triple point hunt. Dave
  16. 3 points
    This pic may help with showing how I do the line tie in the lip of a bait. No way the line tie is coming loose unless the lip comes out of the bait. That lip is a 1/2 inch deep into the nose of the bait. Hope this helps
  17. 3 points
    Judging is complete. Winners have been chosen! We will announce them on the 13th, just 2 days from now.
  18. 3 points
    Before you buy from Amazon try Dick Blicks better price and buy enough with paint or double your order get free shipping. Wayne
  19. 3 points
    When you paint a jig with it and you see all one color, don't get excited. The first time I used gold veined paint I was disappointed as the jigs looked like plain gold. I figured they were painted so I'll cure them and maybe add some GP or watermelon and make roadkill out of it. Well after I took them out of the oven they looked great, and so don't judge your jig until after it is cured, that is when the veins really come out.
  20. 3 points
    Only thing I have to add to this is those baits look great. Allen
  21. 3 points
    It's like the perfect husband. All my ex-wives said it doesn't exist, but they love it at first, till they found out about the handling issues. Hahaha
  22. 3 points
    I've probably said this a million times and like sallmouthaholic said " don't quit your day job". This isn't meant for me to get rich off of. I have a full time job for that. This is my way of relaxing, talk to a lot of fishermen and learn what the latest tactics are to improve my fish catching . The money I make from this, I would starve and be poor if this was my only source of income. This is a hobby and that's all it is to me. Some days you have a good days pouring and you think you made money, other days, you want to quit and forget about the whole process. Luckily, there are more good days than bad days. All said and done if I figure everything that it costs me to operate, I'm better off working at McDonalds. If they raise the pay to $15/ per hour, I'd definitely be better off.
  23. 3 points
  24. 3 points
    I carved the master for this resin bait 100% by hand out of a block of wood using only simple carving knives and sand paper. It has a triple joint configuration which gives it a very fluid and natural swim at a wide variety of retrieval speeds and cadences. A full set of soft plastic fins adds to its realism and collapses easily out of the way when a predator fish strikes the bait. This black crappie paint scheme was accomplished by using six layered colors of spray paint topped off with a black crappie scale pattern applied by hand with a tooth pick. These patterns alone took a few hours to complete but were well worth the effort. Overall this is my best work yet and I'm excited to see how I can improve. Thanks for looking! Dan
  25. 3 points
    Yeah, I’d rather not see the Devcon-ETEX war start again. My take is that both work well. Maybe ETEX is a little more flexible in cold weather, at least many musky bait builders think so. I’ve tried both and for the bass baits I make, I prefer Devcon for several reasons. It goes on thicker so you need only one coat versus several for ETEX. It hardens faster so you need 45-60 minutes of rotation after application instead of several hours wth ETEX. It is less prone to develop fisheyes than ETEX. I don’t think the end product is any better than with ETEX but it’s a lot less hassle and faster to use in terms of the process. My gut feeling is that all SLOW cure epoxies, including glue epoxies like Devcon , decoupage epoxies like ETEX, or rod thread epoxies like Flexcoat produce topcoats that are very durable, glossy, and waterproof. I say choose one, learn the best application techniques for that one, and never look back.
  26. 3 points
    I made a vid on this Only one time I was not able to free it. Always the clear lip Warts too, maybe because the plastic is softer. You can hit it fairly hard. I never damaged one.
  27. 3 points
    I use this one http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Mold-Insert-Components/Wire-Weedguard.html https://www.barlowstackle.com/Wire-Weed-Guard-P3836.aspx
  28. 3 points
    I have been playing with a stencil project for the baits that I make and for repaint purposes. first test prints so I am getting close, gotta thin the shell down and make the alignment tabs a bit thicker. What baits are you wanting to make stencils for?? K/O baits or for your own baits?
  29. 3 points
    also do not over heat
  30. 3 points
    Clear Nail polish. Hard As Nails
  31. 3 points
    Dave is an awesome man, living nearby I was blessed to be able to run to his shop and pick up small amounts of material when needed. I enjoyed great conversations and learned alot about his start and place in the business. He always made me feel welcomed and helped me with many thoughts or ideas. His illness did start to get the best of him and two major floods did not help. I still have many of his supplies and will regret not being able to go visit him to get more. Not for the supplies really but the visit which meant so much more.
  32. 3 points
    I'm gonna some this up for everyone really quick. People expected the cheapest ass product they could and still wanted to complain. So we started degassing pre shipping. It is exactly the same plastic. this allowed us when people cried about bubbles to say, you should have bought degassed then. Most every plastic is mixed under a vacuum, science says if you don't do this your going to whip air into it. Now this also has many dependencies on viscosity. Aka lurecraft to my knowledge does not degass, but there product being a good product for most, don't misinterpret my words, has a very thin viscosity, aka settles fast. So it can mix easily without degassing. same goes for lureworks, it to has a thin viscocity. reason they can sell it under injectasol easily not degassed... There suspendasol, now is like mayonnaise, Reason you guys cant use it effectively as you cant mix it without whipping in air very easily. Now you have moisture, looks just like air, acts like air etc. Degasser will also extract moisture, I sure hope this clears some air without any feelings being hurt.
  33. 3 points
    Dang! Please return the four dozen swimbaits I just sent you to foil for me. Hahaha
  34. 3 points
    were you find degassing a advantage, is the ability to mix the hell out of it, and post degass. It is science and it is a chemical, it is going to settle, and it is going to aerate at it current viscosity. a thinner material dont aerate as badly if at all. But...... Thinner material also has other drawbacks. Like it ability to suspend.
  35. 3 points
    I dont use chunk style trailers often but saw a tip by Randal Tharp that I think could help with the plastic ripping. Take a toothpick and run it laterally just in front of where you plan to put the hook through. On a short bite the bait pulls on the toothpick instead of ripping through the front of the bait. Just clip off the ends so they dont stick out.
  36. 3 points
    A easy adjustable balast I learned and used just yesterday is lead solder wire. Especially on your first few baits, get it initially where you want it and then cater to water temp, line material, hook weight, distribution, etc with the use of lead solder around the hook shanks. A smaller diameter solder shouldn't affect hook ups too bad. I just used this on a floater jerkbait to make it slow sink in cold water. Another plus is its cheaper than suspend dots. So many possibilities!
  37. 3 points
    He was talking how to paint the LC Table Rock. Hughesy may have painted one or two Table Rock Shad over the time as everyone has their knockoff of his. Everyone has their interpretation of his color pattern. Here is an old post of his from 2004. First of all let me thank you for the nice compliments. As far as my "create your own colors page", I did try using my own colors but they didn't look right because of places like where the back color faded into the side of the baits looked real funky, the color of the paint behind the scale pattern would show up and many other issues I came across. It was a real pain. I just put that page on there for the fun of it. I doubt if anyone uses it to really design colors all though I have received many orders with the little pictures as a sample. I might change it around if I every get time to play around with it. As far as it increasing my orders, its killing me the way it is now. We are running about 5 to 6 weeks on deliveries of orders as we speak with no end in sight. On patenting colors schemes, I don't think its possible because you could add 2 drops of white to any color and barely change the color but I'm sure in a court of law it would be considered a new color even though it matches your to a T. If you notice that most of the Big Boys that copy my stuff do not get the colors right. Lucky Crafts Table Rock Shad is a real faded chartreuse and almost a flat purple, Normans Sour Grape has purple flake and the they to can't get the right purple and chartreuse. The same with Pradco's Mark Menendez line. All of those colors are a copies of mine but they just can't get the colors tint right. Plus the quality of their work could use some help. Thanks again clemmy for the great ideas but I'm just gonna stay right where I'm at and just keep on shootin that paint.
  38. 3 points
    Well its a copy of my original table rock shad but I'll give it a shot. I use lacquer paint and I know most don't so I'll just use general color names. 1. cover white entire lure. 2. mix white with a small amount of chartreuse for sides. 3. mix deep violet with a small amount of red. 4. pearl white belly. 5. black dot.
  39. 3 points
    Here is the color that the stuff I use from smooth on is.
  40. 3 points
    The joy of this hobby is there are no rules when making what you want.
  41. 3 points
    Be patient. I told my partners when you own your own business, you only have to work 1/2 a day. Just pick what 12 hours you want to work. Just dont try to grow to fast, take your time.
  42. 3 points
    I finally received my orders from BTS! After posting in this thread I was contacted by someone working for BTS and they not only took care of my two old orders they also included at no cost a tail mold I once asked Bob about that wasn’t previously available. I have to say I really appreciate them going above and beyond to make up for the aggravation I went through. Might be a good time to get in touch with them if you still have an outstanding order.
  43. 3 points
    If you search "Didspade" on amazon you can get a variety of 5g samples packs (they make approx. 9 oz.). I had a couple bottles of Createx clear coat that I mixed them into and had real good results. The attached picture is 3 or 4 light coats of "riddler" sprayed over black sealer.
  44. 3 points
    Mother Nature has a lot to do with how quickly you get your express packages. Most of those express packages are carried via air freight. The last couple weeks we have had major early winter storms that disrupted service all over the US because it disrupted the Hub cities where the freight gets sorted. Memphis, New York, Indianapolis, and Louisville. Certainly not the retailers fault.
  45. 3 points
    8” cedar wire thru shallow diver narrow body fire tiger
  46. 3 points
    Hey guys, I am the developer of ClearSHield HD, the new finish Jim is referring to. I'm happy to answer any questions regarding the product, but I don't want to do so without the blessing of the owners of the board. I sent an email or two a few weeks ago about a board sponsorship, but never received a response. Looking forward to getting to know you guys, Best Regards, Andy Dear Axis Outdoor Company
  47. 3 points
    Exhibit is in the gallery. Until now you did not discuss how you did it. But thank you for sharing your knowledge of how it is done. I have found one thing here in all the years I have shared, you can tell them how it is done and very few will actually take the time to put in alll the hard work to do what you do. Doing this to make something of it takes a lot of time and effort. Unless you sit down and spend hours and days doing it no one will understand how hard it really is. That tray of baits took him in my opinion hours to make. Not very many people want to invest that kinda time to do it. I respect that cause I have spent the hours and days to make baits for people. And again thank you for sharing.
  48. 3 points
    Looks like a laminate to me. Clear plastic with some glitter on one side, light watermelon and a light brown on the other.
  49. 3 points
    8” cedar wire thru shallow diver wide body
  50. 3 points
    At Rowhunter's suggestion, I'm starting a PVC thread. I use it for all my lure building, for the following reasons: It is totally waterproof, so I can shape a lure, and then test float and ballast it without any sealing. I have a 3 gallon bucket of water in my driveway that I use for test floating. It is buoyant. The Azek PVC decking is as buoyant as poplar, a hardwood I used to build my jointed swimbaits from. The Azek trimboard is even more buoyant, like medium density balsa. I can make really active shallow cranks with it. It is strong. The decking is as strong as any wood, for lure building, and the trimboard, although not as dense, is still plenty strong enough for any crank. And I use it for my smaller two piece jointed lures, too. I caught a 7lb largemouth with a PVC trimboard spybait I made that was 4" long, but only 7/16" thick, and I had drilled several 3/16" holes up from the belly for my ballast. She ate the rear hook, and the bait held up fine. Both are strong enough to hold screw eyes with just a small pilot hole. No need for any reinforcement, or setting into holes filled with epoxy. I usually use the gap filling/brush on super glue alone to set my hardware, and a lot times my bills, too. I use the accelerant (thank you Ben) dripped onto the glue to help it set quickly, once things are positioned. It machines and carves well. Although the sanding dust is nasty, because it sticks to everything, including my sinuses, PVC is easily machined and shaped with the same tools I used for wood. As with any work, sharp tools work best. I cut out my bait profile, and lip slot, with a bandsaw, and try to drill any ballast hole while the bait has the flat sides, so I can drill straight holes with my drill press. I use an oscillating belt sander with an 80 grit belt to do my major shaping, working from a centerline I put on the bait after I've sanded the bandsaw marks off. I "carve" details with a dremel sanding drum, and drill out my eyes with a multi-spur bit on a drill press. I typically sand down from 80 grit to 120 grit with a vibrator sander, and finish up with a small piece of sandpaper to get edges and details softened. Because it has no direction-oriented grain, it carves really well with sharp tool. It can be laminated into bigger lure blanks using the same PVC glue plumbers use for PVC pipe, or you can use super glue. If you use both the PVC primer and the glue, the two pieces actually melt into one solid piece. As long as the two surfaces are flat and mate, you're good to go. It paints well. I can shoot Wicked White as a base coat onto a raw PVC bait, heat set it, and never have any separation problems with my paint schemes. When I've had occasion to remove some paint to modify a bait, I've had to sand down to the PVC to get the paint off. It never peels. Occasionally, heat setting too hot can cause trapped air to bubble up under the seal coat, so I generally seal baits by rubbing crazy glue, or thinned epoxy, over them before I paint, if I want a super smooth bait. But any bubbles that do appear can be popped by the sharp tip of an exacto knife, and they lay right back down when I press them with my exacto knife handle. I've never had any baits with popped bubbles fail. And, because it is totally waterproof, I don't have to worry about nicks and scuffs from rocks and hooks. Any top coat works. I've used epoxies, urethanes, and concrete sealers, with no problems. In short, it make lure building faster and easier, and that make it even more fun, so why I use it.
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