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  1. 9 points
    Here is the way I see it. You just have to worry about yourself. You cannot stop what you are talking about. So you just need to do it better than everyone else. It is not an easy thing to do. Being the best never is. Bottom line is.....How bad you want it? Skeeter
  2. 5 points
    LOL! Paint patterns or schemes cannot be owned by any one person or company. I find it ironic that a custom painter is complaining about someone ripping off his paint scheme, when he is putting that scheme on knock-off lures ripped off from other manufacturers.
  3. 5 points
    The perfect topcoat is fish saliva..
  4. 5 points
    Maybe this will help out a little... These are ones I have tested and found the fit acceptable.
  5. 4 points
    Hello, I don’t post near as much as I used to, but am still here every couple days. I saw the new thread about the JR Hopkins DVD and I started thinking about the past of TU. I wonder if we shouldn’t have a “Lost and Found” sticky for formerly active members? More to let us know they’re okay, and just not into building, or having a difficult time, or whatever. Similarly, perhaps we should have a “In Memoriam” sticky. I know we unfortunately have had multiple threads in the past about Members who have passed, but they’re hard to find if you don’t know to look. Maybe each could have a link to the thread (if there was one), a link to their posts (as a way of honoring their contribution to the hobby) and a comments section. Craig
  6. 4 points
    I cataloged all mine in a spreadsheet, printed out a list, had them closed on shelves with the number on the end of the wood handle showing so I could find it on my list, then looked for the number of handle. I had the shelves with numbers so I had location numbers on my list and still couldn't find what I was looking for when I needed a mold. so I put them on peg board .The pic of my molds takes up a lot of room but at least if can find what I am looking for. and while looking for a mold i'll see one that i forgot i had, so that is helpful.
  7. 4 points
    Or you could be like me. Add hardener, then find out it's too hard, then add softener, then too soft, repeat......
  8. 4 points
    I have started receiving complaints from TU members about business owners, tackle supply retailers, lure parts companies and others spending time here in the forums with a single motive; selling TU members their goods or services. This message serves as notice to everyone that this will STOP here and now! TU is not a venue for ANYONE to spend time hanging out here, trying to sell their products to people. It is a place where people come to learn from other lure makers. Any company who has people here and is actively soliciting TU members, be forewarned that your accounts are in danger of being permanently banned! I don't take this lightly and you shouldn't either! So if you happen to be one of those people who has been becoming more active here for the sole purpose of trying to reel in new customers, put an end to it now. If you want to share your knowledge with others without mentioning your company and without offering to "help" them with their problem by offering to sell them something, then feel free to continue to to participate here. I will be keeping a close eye on this and TU members will also be watching and if they see anything going on that is outside of these guidelines, it will be passed along to me. Once again, accounts of guilty parties will be permanently banned if this continues after today!
  9. 4 points
    If I had a nickel for how many times I've seen "new lure finish" in the last 18 years........... Well lets just say I wouldnt be making $8 fishing lures
  10. 4 points
    The only thing I can add is that I read somewhere (can't remember where) that using wooden stir sticks can introduce bubbles into your epoxy when mixing. I use a metal rod bent into a shepherds stick shape and seem to have a lot lot less problems with my epoxy than a lot of guys do. Ben
  11. 3 points
    The issue is the way the ends are fused together. The plastic is melted and you get the "fuzzy" residue and burrs which result if not always an exact fit. Fishing skirts sells the BOSS weed guards which are fused in a different way, they don't have the melted plastic residue and fit really well. They sell them in both medium and heavy 1/8" (FG-30) and 5/32" (FG-40) available in clear, green pumpkin, black and brown. https://fishingskirts.com/product-category/boss/boss-weed-guards/
  12. 3 points
    This article offers up a hypothesis (unproven theory) of a triple point in fishing lure design that will result in the most erratic action usually associated with ‘hunting’, a zigzag motion, often observed in lures when retrieved at just the right speed. It is a complex and technical article, and as with a lot of my stuff; a difficult read. If you don’t understand any of it then ask questions, but don’t knock it, I am doing my best. Triple point is most commonly known in the field of metallurgy; a particular combination of variables such as temperature, pressure etc. that enables a metal to pass from a solid to a gas directly, totally skipping the liquid phase. The three forms; solid, liquid and gas all occur at the same point, hence triple point. I believe that there is a similar point in lure design. The variables that control this ‘triple point’ are the same variables that we adjust when designing any crank-bait lure; lip length, lip width, tow eye position, body shape, ballast location in ‘X’ direction (length), ballast location in ‘Z’ direction (depth). Buoyancy of body material and hardware location also play their respective parts as always. Also playing its part in the search for the ‘triple point’ is ‘resonant frequency’. Regular hunting – I published the theory of hunting 9th April 2017 ‘Hunting Cranks - Theory, Design and Build’. Here I outlined what is happening when a lure hunts and how to achieve this condition. You could refer to the point at which hunting occurs as a transition point between pitch (porpoising) and yaw (waggle). But this is not entirely true. It is simply the point when the swimming lip angle reaches/passes 90 degrees to the water flow, at which point the lure stops waggling and starts to porpoise. The transition is where waggle and porpoising are mixed together. This condition is easily achieved simply by making the lip too long and trimming back until the lure just starts to waggle. The transition is not a precise point. The position through this ‘transition’ that you trim the lip to, will determine the qualities of the hunt; slow wide hunt through to rapid shallow hunt. Back in 2007 when I first started working on the hunting project, I did stumble upon the triple point totally by accident. I can only describe the action as wild. Unfortunately the lure was butchered by me to make another adjustment, but I was unable to reproduce the action. At that time, I had not discovered what was actually causing the hunt, let alone the triple point. I had theories that turned out to be partially correct, namely the transition between pitch and yaw. After seeing the ‘wild’ action, I also speculated on the triple point, but was unable to figure it out for a build. Ironically, I had stumbled upon a lure with a slow ‘S’ motion rather than a waggle when experimenting with some weird designs. I didn’t figure out was going on, what was causing this lazy ‘S’ motion until yesterday. Actually not a transition like I suspected, but caused by resonant frequency. Resonant Frequency (RF) – this is what causes panels to vibrate on your vehicle when it travels at a certain speed, causing that irritating ‘buzz’ that you can never quite locate. RF is also what keeps architects awake at night. RF can cause buildings and bridges to collapse. One of the most famous incidents involving RF was the Tacoma bridge disaster. The frequency of the lure, the speed at which it waggles, is determined by the speed at which the alternating vortices form behind the lip, controlled by the width of the lip. A narrow lip produces faster alternating vortices, a wider lip produces slower vortices. The ability of the lure to roll is controlled by the ballast ‘Z’ location (height). To understand roll, think of a pendulum, a swinging weight on the end of a piece of string. The longer the piece of string, the slower the pendulum swings. The string can be shortened so that the roll period (back and forth time) is extremely fast. The ideal length of the piece of string is that which gives a pendulum period equal to that of the lip vortices. This ideal pendulum speed is called the resonant frequency of the lure, and will give the best waggle/roll combination. At resonant frequency the roll and the waggle enhance each other, and this causes the lure to ‘blow out’, so not ideal after all. As the length of the hypothetical string increases from the ideal length, the ability of the lure to roll is in conflict with the vortex speed, thus the lure roll is inhibited. There comes a point where the vortex period is 3X the roll period. At this point, the roll and the vortices are in line with each other again, and resonant frequency is once again achieved. But this time the roll period is 1/3rd the period of the RF ‘blow-out’ frequency. It is at this point that I believe the wild action occurs, when the period of the zigzag aligns exactly with the 1/3rd RF of the roll. My next step is to prototype for this ‘S’ motion. I must then combine this with the regular hunt geometry. This combination should give me the ‘wild’ action that I witnessed all those years ago. This combination of geometry I would refer to as the ‘Triple point Hunt’, a combination of the tuned pitch/yaw transition with the 1/3rd RF of the roll. And so, although Mark Poulson was correct when he said that he suspected ballast height may well be the trigger to cause an erratic hunt, the solution is actually to lower the ballast to find the 1/3rd RF, or even lower to find the 1/5th RF. However, this is not enough. The position in the pitch/roll transition must also be tuned to the 1/3rd RF. Once this balance has been achieved, the width of the zigzag will be enhanced by the 1/3rd RF roll, the roll will be enhanced by the vortex waggle, and the lure will really start to dance. My intention is to build a prototype with an adjustable ballast, to tune in to the 1/3rd RF roll, and find the best ‘S’ motion. I will then adjust the lip length to match the hunting zigzag period with the 1/3rd RF roll. This should result in the ‘wild’ action of the Triple Point Hunter. Once the wild hunt is found, a body can be designed to contain the ballast. This is probably going to result in a lot more prototype attempts and a rather weird looking body. Actually, when all the relevant periods are perfectly aligned, a wide, regular hunt should result, but if the periods are close and not perfectly aligned, then a wild, irregular motion should result. As with such a build, such precise alignment would be difficult, and so the wild action will be the most likely outcome. From what I remember of the ‘S’ swimming prototype, there was no visible waggle, just the pure ‘S’ motion. In theory, if the periods are perfectly tuned, there should be a visible waggle 3X faster than the ‘S’ motion. More possibilities will be available by tuning to different harmonics; The lip waggle is the first RF harmonic, the pitch/yaw could be tuned to the third RF harmonic, and the ‘S’ motion tuned to the 5th RF harmonic. This would produce a really weird swimming action, but first thing’s first, let’s not get too far ahead of ourselves. Thinking about it, what I saw all those years ago, may well have been this 1/3/5 harmonic triple point hunt. Dave
  13. 3 points
    I have that mold & it shoots great. It's a great choice.
  14. 3 points
    So much pain! I feel lucky, no one can copy my shit, even when I give directions Dave
  15. 3 points
    No offence but painting is just that painting. I respect the talent with an airbrush but in the end it’s just decorating a lure that someone else made. There is only so many combinations and if you are matching natural feed things are even more limited Maybe I just don’t get it because my focus is on building and action more than painting. In the end if painting is what you base your business on and competition is hurting you it’s time to find something that makes you stand out from the others. It’s just how business goes Good luck
  16. 3 points
    I think you will find, denting is a combo of gates and venting in hand molds. I have took my exact senco mold, and eliminated half of the venting and it dented to beat hell. I think this is the issue you will find with this mold is the venting is insufficient. Now we can argue about venting all day, But don't expect me to argue back, As I know what works for us..
  17. 3 points
    With small lures, members discovered that very thin fiber/circuit board lips were more effective than thicker Lexan lips in creating waggle action. The thinner the lip, the better the action. The reason for this has not been discussed much, if at all. It is all about the sharp edge. Water can flow around a round object with minimum 'peeling off' of the flow, thus minimum disturbance of the water. Conversely, flow cannot negotiate a sharp corner; it cannot change direction that quickly. This causes a low pressure area behind the edge of the lip. Water gets sucked back into this low pressure area and thus the vortex is born. At very slow speeds, the shape of the water flow is symmetrical, the same both sides of the lure. But, as the lure speed increases, a certain speed is reached were the vortices start to interact. There is not enough room for the vortices to exist independently so they take turns. The vortices start to alternate, forming one side then the other. This effect is called ‘vortex shedding’, a ‘vortex street’ or ‘Kármán vortex street’. This alternating vortex is the engine that drives the lure, causing the desirable ‘waggle’ or action of the lure. This also explains why a lure has a minimum speed before the action starts. The sharper the edge is, the stronger the low pressure area, the stronger the vortex and therefore the stronger the action. Larger lures in the range of 8” and larger will require a thicker lip in order to survive bouncing off rocks with all that body weight behind. But the thicker lip is not going to produce as much action as the knife edge lip of the 3” lure. The solution is to cut a chamfer behind the lip face. This reintroduces the knife edge and improves the vortex strength and thus the action. Another way to improve action is to make the face of the lip concave. This causes pressure to build up in front of the lip which further increases the strength of the vortex. Here is a video that shows vortex shedding, and the start transition explaining the minimum speed. Dave
  18. 3 points
  19. 3 points
  20. 3 points
    Most guys who use Iwata brushes really like them. To me, the right brush is determined by the tip size you need. Iwatas can be had in truly tiny tip sizes but which size do you need? A .2 mm tip HP can paint very fine lines if your skill and control is up to the task and if you are shooting properly thinned paint. But it isn’t ideal for thicker pearls and flakes. Maybe you can use your Badger 150 for that and a small tip Iwata for finer work. If you want to stick with one brush for everything, an Iwata Revolution BR (.3 mm) or Eclipse (.35 mm) will do it all. One thing you will notice: the smaller the tip size, the more expensive the airbrush and the more costly the repair parts if needed. And the smaller the tip, the more exactly the brush needs to be fitted to use it, so be extra careful with those fine tipped brushes.
  21. 3 points
    Above is all good info and let me add my 2ct worth with some colors such as chartreuse or florescence you need to cook the plastic with the colorant added to cold plastic or some color tend to chaulk and not be as vivid as it should be. Me personally I use a thermometer for gauging the temp it guarantees my consistency .With that said you can judge it by looks with time under your belt but , it is best practice to use a thermometer . You can get close by judging but you don’t want to find out the hard way you were 10 degrees under target temp and your baits start doing weird things and you waste your hard earned money and time on baits that end up in the trash . Also welcome to the fold ! There’s a lot of good info here and it will save you a lot of foible in the long run. tight lines!
  22. 3 points
    Yeah, thanks. I realized what a stupid question that was after I thought about it, pouring it back in, if I could would be a disaster. I tried dipping today in a narrow glass and it worked pretty well using less that 3/4 of a cup. The bait colors didn't leak into it much so it should be good for a few more dips.
  23. 3 points
    The Clearasol you use to dip the baits will firm up just like the swim bait.. DO NOT pour it back in the bottle..After it cools it will be a chunk . Save it for the next time you dip . When ready to remelt cut it up into small chunks and add a little fresh to it and remelt then dip again.
  24. 3 points
  25. 3 points
    I have been making plastics for a couple of years now. I just want all to know how I feel that this Forum is filled with great facts and everyone on here seems to get along great!! Thanks a bunch!!
  26. 3 points
    I put mine in a toaster oven set at like 150-200 degrees. I only leave it in for a couple minutes and also pre-heat my molds that way to. Work awesome in the winter when the garage is in the 30s-40s.
  27. 3 points
    Also, it is a nice jig. 2 and 1/2 tabs is a full skirt for me. Your colors are nice and the hand tying is attention to detail. I like it.
  28. 3 points
    Some mold makers will do that, some won't. Looking at the various websites you will see that some designs are much more refined than others....
  29. 3 points
    Thanks cadman and smalljaw for your responses. You two always go above and beyond to answer questions on this board. I don’t post much but do visit this forum daily. I’m always impressed with the information that y’all bring.
  30. 3 points
    This pic may help with showing how I do the line tie in the lip of a bait. No way the line tie is coming loose unless the lip comes out of the bait. That lip is a 1/2 inch deep into the nose of the bait. Hope this helps
  31. 3 points
    Judging is complete. Winners have been chosen! We will announce them on the 13th, just 2 days from now.
  32. 3 points
    When you paint a jig with it and you see all one color, don't get excited. The first time I used gold veined paint I was disappointed as the jigs looked like plain gold. I figured they were painted so I'll cure them and maybe add some GP or watermelon and make roadkill out of it. Well after I took them out of the oven they looked great, and so don't judge your jig until after it is cured, that is when the veins really come out.
  33. 3 points
    I've probably said this a million times and like sallmouthaholic said " don't quit your day job". This isn't meant for me to get rich off of. I have a full time job for that. This is my way of relaxing, talk to a lot of fishermen and learn what the latest tactics are to improve my fish catching . The money I make from this, I would starve and be poor if this was my only source of income. This is a hobby and that's all it is to me. Some days you have a good days pouring and you think you made money, other days, you want to quit and forget about the whole process. Luckily, there are more good days than bad days. All said and done if I figure everything that it costs me to operate, I'm better off working at McDonalds. If they raise the pay to $15/ per hour, I'd definitely be better off.
  34. 3 points
    I carved the master for this resin bait 100% by hand out of a block of wood using only simple carving knives and sand paper. It has a triple joint configuration which gives it a very fluid and natural swim at a wide variety of retrieval speeds and cadences. A full set of soft plastic fins adds to its realism and collapses easily out of the way when a predator fish strikes the bait. This black crappie paint scheme was accomplished by using six layered colors of spray paint topped off with a black crappie scale pattern applied by hand with a tooth pick. These patterns alone took a few hours to complete but were well worth the effort. Overall this is my best work yet and I'm excited to see how I can improve. Thanks for looking! Dan
  35. 3 points
    Yeah, I’d rather not see the Devcon-ETEX war start again. My take is that both work well. Maybe ETEX is a little more flexible in cold weather, at least many musky bait builders think so. I’ve tried both and for the bass baits I make, I prefer Devcon for several reasons. It goes on thicker so you need only one coat versus several for ETEX. It hardens faster so you need 45-60 minutes of rotation after application instead of several hours wth ETEX. It is less prone to develop fisheyes than ETEX. I don’t think the end product is any better than with ETEX but it’s a lot less hassle and faster to use in terms of the process. My gut feeling is that all SLOW cure epoxies, including glue epoxies like Devcon , decoupage epoxies like ETEX, or rod thread epoxies like Flexcoat produce topcoats that are very durable, glossy, and waterproof. I say choose one, learn the best application techniques for that one, and never look back.
  36. 3 points
    I made a vid on this Only one time I was not able to free it. Always the clear lip Warts too, maybe because the plastic is softer. You can hit it fairly hard. I never damaged one.
  37. 3 points
    I use this one http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Mold-Insert-Components/Wire-Weedguard.html https://www.barlowstackle.com/Wire-Weed-Guard-P3836.aspx
  38. 3 points
    I have been playing with a stencil project for the baits that I make and for repaint purposes. first test prints so I am getting close, gotta thin the shell down and make the alignment tabs a bit thicker. What baits are you wanting to make stencils for?? K/O baits or for your own baits?
  39. 3 points
    Clear Nail polish. Hard As Nails
  40. 3 points
    Dave is an awesome man, living nearby I was blessed to be able to run to his shop and pick up small amounts of material when needed. I enjoyed great conversations and learned alot about his start and place in the business. He always made me feel welcomed and helped me with many thoughts or ideas. His illness did start to get the best of him and two major floods did not help. I still have many of his supplies and will regret not being able to go visit him to get more. Not for the supplies really but the visit which meant so much more.
  41. 3 points
    If you are going to continue what was being done before with the same plastic then there is no question about having to degass. Many guys want it done. Is it another step yes for for you. Will it take time yes. Will it cost you more money to get the equipment to do it yes. But that is what it will take to carry on what was done before. I have been doing it for myself for years and for me it was a no brainer to get my own equipment. I have told anyone who wants to do it how to and even posted a picture of my set up here before. But some will not want to do it and it is up to you to acomidate them or send them to another supplier that does it for them. I don’t know what the sales ratios of degassed to standard sale were but if you don’t offer it then in my mind you are loosing out. You must be open to what others want and change if necessary. It is not weather you see a benefit in it it is if your customer does. Already on this post people have given another supplier that does this for them. Do you want to lose even more customers?
  42. 3 points
    Dang! Please return the four dozen swimbaits I just sent you to foil for me. Hahaha
  43. 3 points
    were you find degassing a advantage, is the ability to mix the hell out of it, and post degass. It is science and it is a chemical, it is going to settle, and it is going to aerate at it current viscosity. a thinner material dont aerate as badly if at all. But...... Thinner material also has other drawbacks. Like it ability to suspend.
  44. 3 points
    MORE ON MOLD MAKING To make a mold one has to have something to mold. Most all of my bait designs were to make a bait that fits one of the Do-It leaded molds. I start with two pieces of 0.032 brass shim stock. These are fastened togeather with double sided cellophane tape. The outline of the bait is then sawed, filed , etc. your satisfaction. The body of the bait are then made up of 1/32 strips of basswood glued together to the thickness required. Each 1/32 strip is coated with a color before gluing. This will facilitate shaping the body. When the body is finished The model is then separated into the two halves and mounted into the cavity. Sprues are the added and your are ready to mold. Most of my molds are made with polyurethane resin [ RC-3, VAC50, specialty resin.com]. I usually make a dozen bait molds of each design. This only a hobby for me and I don't sell baits. Usually make baits 2 or 3 times a year or as required.
  45. 3 points
    He was talking how to paint the LC Table Rock. Hughesy may have painted one or two Table Rock Shad over the time as everyone has their knockoff of his. Everyone has their interpretation of his color pattern. Here is an old post of his from 2004. First of all let me thank you for the nice compliments. As far as my "create your own colors page", I did try using my own colors but they didn't look right because of places like where the back color faded into the side of the baits looked real funky, the color of the paint behind the scale pattern would show up and many other issues I came across. It was a real pain. I just put that page on there for the fun of it. I doubt if anyone uses it to really design colors all though I have received many orders with the little pictures as a sample. I might change it around if I every get time to play around with it. As far as it increasing my orders, its killing me the way it is now. We are running about 5 to 6 weeks on deliveries of orders as we speak with no end in sight. On patenting colors schemes, I don't think its possible because you could add 2 drops of white to any color and barely change the color but I'm sure in a court of law it would be considered a new color even though it matches your to a T. If you notice that most of the Big Boys that copy my stuff do not get the colors right. Lucky Crafts Table Rock Shad is a real faded chartreuse and almost a flat purple, Normans Sour Grape has purple flake and the they to can't get the right purple and chartreuse. The same with Pradco's Mark Menendez line. All of those colors are a copies of mine but they just can't get the colors tint right. Plus the quality of their work could use some help. Thanks again clemmy for the great ideas but I'm just gonna stay right where I'm at and just keep on shootin that paint.
  46. 3 points
    The joy of this hobby is there are no rules when making what you want.
  47. 3 points
    Be patient. I told my partners when you own your own business, you only have to work 1/2 a day. Just pick what 12 hours you want to work. Just dont try to grow to fast, take your time.
  48. 3 points
  49. 3 points
    Hey guys, I am the developer of ClearSHield HD, the new finish Jim is referring to. I'm happy to answer any questions regarding the product, but I don't want to do so without the blessing of the owners of the board. I sent an email or two a few weeks ago about a board sponsorship, but never received a response. Looking forward to getting to know you guys, Best Regards, Andy Dear Axis Outdoor Company
  50. 3 points
    At Rowhunter's suggestion, I'm starting a PVC thread. I use it for all my lure building, for the following reasons: It is totally waterproof, so I can shape a lure, and then test float and ballast it without any sealing. I have a 3 gallon bucket of water in my driveway that I use for test floating. It is buoyant. The Azek PVC decking is as buoyant as poplar, a hardwood I used to build my jointed swimbaits from. The Azek trimboard is even more buoyant, like medium density balsa. I can make really active shallow cranks with it. It is strong. The decking is as strong as any wood, for lure building, and the trimboard, although not as dense, is still plenty strong enough for any crank. And I use it for my smaller two piece jointed lures, too. I caught a 7lb largemouth with a PVC trimboard spybait I made that was 4" long, but only 7/16" thick, and I had drilled several 3/16" holes up from the belly for my ballast. She ate the rear hook, and the bait held up fine. Both are strong enough to hold screw eyes with just a small pilot hole. No need for any reinforcement, or setting into holes filled with epoxy. I usually use the gap filling/brush on super glue alone to set my hardware, and a lot times my bills, too. I use the accelerant (thank you Ben) dripped onto the glue to help it set quickly, once things are positioned. It machines and carves well. Although the sanding dust is nasty, because it sticks to everything, including my sinuses, PVC is easily machined and shaped with the same tools I used for wood. As with any work, sharp tools work best. I cut out my bait profile, and lip slot, with a bandsaw, and try to drill any ballast hole while the bait has the flat sides, so I can drill straight holes with my drill press. I use an oscillating belt sander with an 80 grit belt to do my major shaping, working from a centerline I put on the bait after I've sanded the bandsaw marks off. I "carve" details with a dremel sanding drum, and drill out my eyes with a multi-spur bit on a drill press. I typically sand down from 80 grit to 120 grit with a vibrator sander, and finish up with a small piece of sandpaper to get edges and details softened. Because it has no direction-oriented grain, it carves really well with sharp tool. It can be laminated into bigger lure blanks using the same PVC glue plumbers use for PVC pipe, or you can use super glue. If you use both the PVC primer and the glue, the two pieces actually melt into one solid piece. As long as the two surfaces are flat and mate, you're good to go. It paints well. I can shoot Wicked White as a base coat onto a raw PVC bait, heat set it, and never have any separation problems with my paint schemes. When I've had occasion to remove some paint to modify a bait, I've had to sand down to the PVC to get the paint off. It never peels. Occasionally, heat setting too hot can cause trapped air to bubble up under the seal coat, so I generally seal baits by rubbing crazy glue, or thinned epoxy, over them before I paint, if I want a super smooth bait. But any bubbles that do appear can be popped by the sharp tip of an exacto knife, and they lay right back down when I press them with my exacto knife handle. I've never had any baits with popped bubbles fail. And, because it is totally waterproof, I don't have to worry about nicks and scuffs from rocks and hooks. Any top coat works. I've used epoxies, urethanes, and concrete sealers, with no problems. In short, it make lure building faster and easier, and that make it even more fun, so why I use it.
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