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I finally received my orders from BTS! After posting in this thread I was contacted by someone working for BTS and they not only took care of my two old orders they also included at no cost a tail mold I once asked Bob about that wasn’t previously available. I have to say I really appreciate them going above and beyond to make up for the aggravation I went through. Might be a good time to get in touch with them if you still have an outstanding order.

Most lures of this type are silvered at the factory. A few TU lure sellers have stocked them in the past, not sure if any do now. As far as “roll your own” metallics, tape or metal leaf are the only cost effective options I know

The wife is always on me about this one. It can take a while to finish a project sometimes. In my research I have noticed that most of the tools are the same and vary with wanted details and the scope of the project. I want to say I ran across a lure builder that was burning scales as well as all the other details the average fisherman requires. I am sure numbers were not an issue and it did look interesting enough that I might try it when the skill level rises a tad. Maybe just to highlight certain features so I can hook that unsuspecting angler. Still being new to the hobby I have been using pine to try out shapes so my dermal tool has found another purpose. I still use a blade on harder woods, but in my opinion just to try shapes a dermal is the way to go.

Nathan, there was enough information back then that anyone could learn to make a crankbait. and make it right!! I had never made a crankbait in my life and had no desire until Skeeter talked me into it. ........ That was a day he was very sorry as he created a monster lol

Hi Nathan, yes I am still in Missouri. That was a great time in your shop!! There was some great minds in your shop that day and a blast to meet everyone. Maybe I can be a part of another get together lol..... although I have not made a bait in years, but I am getting the bug. I am still snooping around and getting up to date but I don't see many of the "old" gang. so I don't know who is really into the bait making process like we all were at one point. I am sure after reading a few post I will know lol good to hear from you and don't be a stranger Tally

Great bits of information hidden away here.Most don’t want to spend the time researching this information..It is a real shame too..Nathan

Tally, Great to hear from you buddy!!..You still in Missouri?..Still remember that day in my shop..You,Me ,Gene,Coley,Charlie & Redg8R messed around with my copy carver...Great memories!!..Nathan

Bare with me as I am playing catch up here. I assume you are talking about Coleys tutorial? Very sharp and intelligent man. after you pour, are you cutting the amount of lead off that you want? or using the entire piece? are you weighing each piece of lead that you install? A "good" scale is very important. It sounds like you have now changed the weight placement? This will also change the characteristics of the bait. Do you have some pictures of this bait and what you are doing? Just curious as to why you need to sand if the hook hanger is in the "belly" weight? or bondo? I will help you and give you my opinion. whether or not you like my opinion, it is still your bait to do as YOU please and want. Precision will allow you to make the same bait over and over. Damn I love this stuff lol Tally

Hello Tally!!! Has definitely been a very long time. Hope things have been going well for you. The hours spent in that yahoo chat talking about baits was definitely very informative and of course plenty of BS. Several of the "old timers" still floating around as you mentioned. Not for sure how many of the old chat participants visit the site anymore. Few weeks ago was organizing the workshop and came across the last bit of prop that Swede had sent me. Time really moves too fast at times.

i started with the doit essentials, and IMO it was not very good, like you said, bubbles, yellowing, had issues with both no matter what i did, it would yellow before 350. i switched to baitjunkys and it is much better (but you cant get it anymore!) and now use the BJ200 blend from baitplastics, and that too is much better, it does seperate, but mix it weekly (or so) and you will be good to go. i havent had any issues with yellowing, or bubbles with either baitjunks or BJ200. i will probably try the deadon stuff at some point, gotta get through the 6 gallons i got from baitplastics first!

green pumpkin red is another good one. Works great on moonlit nights too.

I use glitter from both Lure works/spike it and lure craft, they are the absolute best I've have tried,. Colorants, again Lureworks and I'm have been playing with Dead on plastics colors lately, they are translucent but I do dig them so far, btw the Plastic that Dead in sells takes multiple reheats well, worth looking in to. Dead on plastic and Lure works are my #1 & 2 brands for inks, glitter and Plastic, i think you will be pleased if you try them peace

Lureworks hi temp polyester glitter. I’ve never had a single problem with theirs. When I use the other brands up that I have lureworks will be all that i’ll use along with their colorants.

I have been using HazardDiscs from Golden Grub High-temp glitter I found through Ebay. Have made hundreds of lures this year and this glitter has not folded, flashed, smoked or bled due to the heat. The glitter shines very well and I'm very pleased with their product and will continue to purchase from them. Even after multiple heat ups, mixes and random plastic batches the glitter still looks GREAT!.

we have used the shift paint. thinned with water. sprays well for base ,not great for fine details. .results look cool. going to ask some muskies next.

At Rowhunter's suggestion, I'm starting a PVC thread. I use it for all my lure building, for the following reasons: It is totally waterproof, so I can shape a lure, and then test float and ballast it without any sealing. I have a 3 gallon bucket of water in my driveway that I use for test floating. It is buoyant. The Azek PVC decking is as buoyant as poplar, a hardwood I used to build my jointed swimbaits from. The Azek trimboard is even more buoyant, like medium density balsa. I can make really active shallow cranks with it. It is strong. The decking is as strong as any wood, for lure building, and the trimboard, although not as dense, is still plenty strong enough for any crank. And I use it for my smaller two piece jointed lures, too. I caught a 7lb largemouth with a PVC trimboard spybait I made that was 4" long, but only 7/16" thick, and I had drilled several 3/16" holes up from the belly for my ballast. She ate the rear hook, and the bait held up fine. Both are strong enough to hold screw eyes with just a small pilot hole. No need for any reinforcement, or setting into holes filled with epoxy. I usually use the gap filling/brush on super glue alone to set my hardware, and a lot times my bills, too. I use the accelerant (thank you Ben) dripped onto the glue to help it set quickly, once things are positioned. It machines and carves well. Although the sanding dust is nasty, because it sticks to everything, including my sinuses, PVC is easily machined and shaped with the same tools I used for wood. As with any work, sharp tools work best. I cut out my bait profile, and lip slot, with a bandsaw, and try to drill any ballast hole while the bait has the flat sides, so I can drill straight holes with my drill press. I use an oscillating belt sander with an 80 grit belt to do my major shaping, working from a centerline I put on the bait after I've sanded the bandsaw marks off. I "carve" details with a dremel sanding drum, and drill out my eyes with a multi-spur bit on a drill press. I typically sand down from 80 grit to 120 grit with a vibrator sander, and finish up with a small piece of sandpaper to get edges and details softened. Because it has no direction-oriented grain, it carves really well with sharp tool. It can be laminated into bigger lure blanks using the same PVC glue plumbers use for PVC pipe, or you can use super glue. If you use both the PVC primer and the glue, the two pieces actually melt into one solid piece. As long as the two surfaces are flat and mate, you're good to go. It paints well. I can shoot Wicked White as a base coat onto a raw PVC bait, heat set it, and never have any separation problems with my paint schemes. When I've had occasion to remove some paint to modify a bait, I've had to sand down to the PVC to get the paint off. It never peels. Occasionally, heat setting too hot can cause trapped air to bubble up under the seal coat, so I generally seal baits by rubbing crazy glue, or thinned epoxy, over them before I paint, if I want a super smooth bait. But any bubbles that do appear can be popped by the sharp tip of an exacto knife, and they lay right back down when I press them with my exacto knife handle. I've never had any baits with popped bubbles fail. And, because it is totally waterproof, I don't have to worry about nicks and scuffs from rocks and hooks. Any top coat works. I've used epoxies, urethanes, and concrete sealers, with no problems. In short, it make lure building faster and easier, and that make it even more fun, so why I use it.