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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/07/2018 in all areas

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    Like Mark mentioned, I use a cheap 3 gallon shop air compressor. I added an inline air regulator, and I also added a moisture trap. I paint in my garage so noise isn't a worry. I only have one airbrush and generally only paint two or three lures in a sitting. My compressor often only turns on once or twice in a sitting (usually scares the crap out of me haha, it is loud). All together though, my air compressor set up is quite cheap (less than $100, Canadian!) and it works well enough for my needs.
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    I have never had great luck retouching clear to get a factory like finish. If that's what you're looking for I would suggest another coat over the entire bait. You could try thinning with a drop or two of denatured alcohol and retouching just the affected areas. If it's just for you, like you said the fish won't care. Lure turner would help greatly as well.
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    Al, I think you hit the nail on the head. Hardener is thick, so maybe it is what settles out when plastisol sits for a while.
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    Dinger has a couple of chrome bodies.
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    How much painting are you doing at one sitting? Are you using just 1 airbrush or do you have several for different applications. The most important part is going to be the regulator. Some paints require more psi than others and so do different types of airbrushes. Like Mark said, where you are going to be using it will be a big determining factor of how big or little you will get. Nothing worse than a compressor that can't keep up with what you are spraying.
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    Hi Mark, that is too bad but i get it. At one time this site was hopping with a wealth of information. It wasn't people saying do this or do that..... it came with an explanation of why. I don't think there was a piece of a crankbait that wasn't dissected. Maybe I can bring forth some of that since I am back and help the "newbies"....... good enough was never "good enough" Tally
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    I think solid chrome baits are much better in off colored water, where their bodies need to be noticed against the dirtier water. When I fished deep, clear lakes down in SoCal, I found that very light, almost transparent patterns on plastic crank baits, with a hint of a black back, and see-through silver sides/belly were the ticket. That way, when a fish looked up at a passing bait, all it really saw was an impression of a baitfish against the sky. I enhanced that with "In The Spotlight" Salley Hansen nail polish, which is clear with bits of mylar suspended. That provided flash without making the silhouette too strong. I also "painted" clear crankbaits with GloNation white/green glo powder, suspended in clear nail polish. That made the baits glow enough at depth to make them vulnerable. All those things helped me get bit.
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    Most lures of this type are silvered at the factory. A few TU lure sellers have stocked them in the past, not sure if any do now. As far as “roll your own” metallics, tape or metal leaf are the only cost effective options I know
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    Congrats, you got a fresh batch!!!!! Seriously, they will have that smell when first made and it will wear off like others have said. If you want rid of the smell faster, like a day or 2 then spread the material out on a small plastic sheet and cover with baking soda and let it sit for a full 24 to 48 hours. The only thing is you will need to rinse the material off under warm water to get the baking soda off all the way but it doesn't take long to dry. For me, if I didn't need to use them right away I'd just take them out of the bag and let them air out for a few days, it doesn't take long once they are out of the bag.
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    Most use Kelley green glitter for junebug. I use lureworks .040 kelly green for mine. If I want it loaded up i’ll add some small glitter too.
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    This is the third bait I've ever painted. I call it sunapee smelt.
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    8” cedar wire thru shallow diver narrow body fire tiger
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    8” cedar wire thru shallow diver wide body