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I'm gonna some this up for everyone really quick. People expected the cheapest ass product they could and still wanted to complain. So we started degassing pre shipping. It is exactly the same plastic. this allowed us when people cried about bubbles to say, you should have bought degassed then. Most every plastic is mixed under a vacuum, science says if you don't do this your going to whip air into it. Now this also has many dependencies on viscosity. Aka lurecraft to my knowledge does not degass, but there product being a good product for most, don't misinterpret my words, has a very thin viscosity, aka settles fast. So it can mix easily without degassing. same goes for lureworks, it to has a thin viscocity. reason they can sell it under injectasol easily not degassed... There suspendasol, now is like mayonnaise, Reason you guys cant use it effectively as you cant mix it without whipping in air very easily. Now you have moisture, looks just like air, acts like air etc. Degasser will also extract moisture, I sure hope this clears some air without any feelings being hurt.

I have baits that I built 18yrs ago and the lexan bills are still good. You must have got some acrylic by mistake, that stuff will become brittle in cold temps.

I cut some into pieces while the micro is heating or waiting on molds to cool ect. There is always some down time .. ( mite be 3-4 mins at a time ) Just work on it a little at a time and do not get behind on cutting it up. Do not let it build up before cutting . I keep all colors separated even salted and not salted. but If you do not make a lot of baits you can sort in 4 colors - Blacks,,,, Greens ,,,Browns and Purples .. them 4 colors work to reuse all colors just use 4 bags or cans ect . I do not reuse pearls unless just melting them together .

Cutting in small bits is key. Otherwise you burn up the stuff that melted the fastest while still melting/cooking the solids. I use old baits with just some heat stabilizer at times.. usually stuff that I'm trying out in a new mold and don't wanna waste good plastic on. J.

Wouldn't you know it. I find a chunk of the labeling this morning after reading some of the responses and its labeled as Plaskolite. I do have Lexan Polycarbonate, but I used a lot more of the Plaskolite than I did lexan. I guess I need to pitch that Acrylic stuff. It's ruined a load of lures.

Well this thread is a year old, and the product has changed recently. Try some and see if you like it, don't always go by what others propaganda.

I checked out Delta Labs,...……. Response they are no longer in business...…….. And I just sent them another email Wayne

Hmm. That's interesting . I buy various clears from them on a regular basis.

Most will seal the balsa first. Superglue or thinned epoxy both popular choices. I dipped a lot in dissolved plastic solo cups or the propionate dip. Personally superglue is the way I typically go. After sealing I then lay down a base coat/primer then paint. I still prefer Devcon 30 minute for a topcoat.

I took all of your advice and stayed away from the HF powder paint.

Caney creek wasn't. Bear wasn't degassing anything, his BBCP was LureWorks Pourasol and was degassed at their plant before they ship. Calhoun hast changed, LureWorks hasn't changed much as long as I've used it.

Yes - absolutely. I have been experimenting since then though - and I like them much better off a dipping rod.

Ah gotcha, I would love to keep everything seperated and stored until further use,yet i mostly shot two colors or laminates as its called i believe. By far the best catching here for big Zander/walleye i guess they like the contrast. So all together : 1. Use Heatstabilizer, maybe mix in some fresh plastisol 2. Cut old plastic in as small pieces as possible 3. Reheat gently and stirr more than usual Anything I missed ? Btw love how quick and helpful everyone is around here, should have made an account sooner. Shouldnt just be reading, but participating.

Thanks

Same here and I cut it in the smallest pieces possible.

Using CAD models, direct into a duplicator really appeals to me. Speed is not an issue for me, so the dup in the video is looking very tasty, especially the detailing possibilities. Dave

That machine, adapting a 3 axis into a 2 axis function is pretty much what I had in mind, the 3rd axis being the rotation. Obviously the machine in the video is capable of great detail, but this comes at the expense of speed. For turning out featureless bodies, my machine would still use the rotating saw cutter as used in the angle grinder type machine. I will view the other videos at my leisure. Great information, thanks for posting. Dave