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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/04/2019 in all areas

  1. Stick to the USA mold makers, they are very aware of their designs and are good about making sure they don't violate any patents (if they do they are on the hook just as much as you are for making the baits) whereas the offshore mold guys don't care. USA patents don't apply to them and they just pass the buck on to the buyer.
    2 points
  2. The 2019 Coolest Lure Contest is now underway! Click this link to submit your entry! http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/category/39-2019-coolest-lure-contest/
    1 point
  3. 99.999% of injection molds MUST be used with a hand injector. search for hand pour molds, several of the suppliers have plenty to choose from
    1 point
  4. Welcome here! Lots of previous topics on solving problems with topcoat, use the search feature, I know I have had my share of issues! This should be your starting point and covers pretty much all issues. If you follow these steps carefully, your topcoat should be perfect!
    1 point
  5. I start with a rectangle piece of wood. I draw the outline of the bait on the side of the block. Then I figure where I want my joint and mark it. Then I cut the joint 3/4's the way through on each side of the bait while I still have a square piece of wood to work with. I would cut a lip slot now if you wanted a crankdown. Now start shaping the bait with whatever tools you have at your disposal. I use a band saw to cut out the body shape and then define the rounded contours with a belt sander. When I have the body shaped to my liking, I then start with the detail carving with a razor knife and a wood carving knife set. Cut a tail slot. After all your final carving is done then you can cut the joint the rest of the way thru. You don't have to have these tools as I have seen guys do amazing work with a handsaw and a razor knife. Mark your hinge hardware, hook hangers and line tie and drill. Then need to figure out your ballast, floater, slow sink or suspending and drill the appropriate holes and add your weights. Ballast with all your hardware in place and keep in mind, paint and clear will add several grams to your final weight. If you're making a SS or suspending glide this is important. For glides both halves need to sink at the same rate. With smaller baits it can sometimes be difficult to find room in the bait for all the weights and hardware without running into each other. When you're ready, super glue or epoxy the ballast weights in place and fill the rest of the hole with a body filler or super glue/baking soda mix and sand smooth. Bait needs to be sealed prior to primer, paint and clear. After paint, super glue/epoxy hardware in place and then clearcoat. Hope this helps...
    1 point
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