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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/06/2019 in all areas

  1. Only thing I have to add to this is those baits look great. Allen
    3 points
  2. I use stainless steel cotter pins for the line tie in my deep divers but the lip is garolite not lexan. The cotter pins hold fine and never had a problem with the lip.
    2 points
  3. When you paint a jig with it and you see all one color, don't get excited. The first time I used gold veined paint I was disappointed as the jigs looked like plain gold. I figured they were painted so I'll cure them and maybe add some GP or watermelon and make roadkill out of it. Well after I took them out of the oven they looked great, and so don't judge your jig until after it is cured, that is when the veins really come out.
    2 points
  4. Mike, I haven't noticed any difference in application, but there is a label on the jar that says, "Cure at 400º for 10 minutes. I can't do that because I cast a bismuth/tin alloy that melts at 395º. Cured at 325º for an hour, I can whack a head against my bench vise and not see any evidence of abuse. In the photo below, the color of the football is TJ's Crinkle Copper and the naked Poison Tail is Crinkle Penny.
    2 points
  5. Hey, that spring is the cats meow for jigs. I added a couple to my rotisserie dryer and increased my production potential about twofold or more. Great idea.
    1 point
  6. use some very thin lexan for templates. markers are awfull if you want to repaint over the lure. you will get bleed thru ,and get peed off.
    1 point
  7. Salt makes a plastic bait sink.It's the design and stability of the jig head that gives the soft bait the desired angle of flotation! Test your baits and jig heads in a swimming pool or a 5 gallon bucket of water
    1 point
  8. Trail and error is probably your best bet. Just take note of how much salt you added once you get to the desired effect. Also remember, adding salt will change the color of you bait too.
    1 point
  9. Welcome to TU. So you have no air pushing any powder up? If so post pics of your unit. This way we can see what may be the problem. I've built many with my plans and they all work. Things I would check: 1. Before you put any powder in the cup, turn on the air pump open the valve and see if the coffee filter, or whatever you used on the bottom of your cup pops up a bit. If not then you don't have: a) enough air to move your membrane. Buy a bigger air pump. b) you don't have a good seal around the base or you don't have a good seal around the bottom of the cup. You should have powder moving. You may not get an even boiling effect, but you at least should get volcanoes. Also try Tyvec on the bottom of your cups. You can get it from the Post Office. They are the bigger 8.5 x 11 envelopes that look like stranded fiberglass.
    1 point
  10. trial and error ,, for you to figure out.. each bait and plastic are different so you just have to make some and test .
    1 point
  11. Goolies - thanks for the software link, it looks really exciting for someone like me. I have downloaded and will have a play when I free up some time. I have tested my first prototype; I did get some lazy 'S' motion, but apart from that, not much else. However, I know what changes to make to proto-2. The problem is that I am working with a 2" body, and my test pool only has a diagonal of 39". I positioned the ballast too far forward and had to wrap some solder wire around the tail in order to level the body, but there was not enough room for the 70 degree lip to work. Next, I chose a parallel lip for proto-1, a bad decision as not enough roll motion was imparted to really work the ballast pendulum. Stupid really, as a big feature of the lure I remember; had a wide and angled profile. I need to put proto-2 together more carefully. It will have a 60 degree lip angle and an angled profile. I will keep proto-1 separate, even though it was built for easy modification, with adjustable ballast and push-in lips. Also, I might just make a full history video of the process if I am successful. I will be taking my time so don't expect results tomorrow. A lot of thought is going in to this project, I will work at my own pace. But, I will bring you honest feedback as I do not want to waste anyone's time. Dave
    1 point
  12. We don’t have a 45 degree salt recipe. What we usually pour is a salt to taste and a standard Senko recipe. To sink. Senko Recipe 1 cup plastic, 4 tablespoons worm salt, 2 tablespoons softener Salt to taste 1 cup plastic, 1 tablespoon worm salt, 1/2 tablespoon softener
    1 point
  13. I have never found much fault with Bob's advice. He is a credit to the site. Skeeter
    1 point
  14. Here are two baits from the same mold manufacturer that I shot last night. Plastic was a mixture of some green from the same injector shot. As you can see one is shiny while the other is dull since I did not spray the mold. Personally I am liking the matte color so I will shoot the rest of that cup in that mold. Allen
    1 point
  15. Unless I'm remembering incorrectly, platinum cure won't work with a plastisol master, but tin cure will.
    1 point
  16. Dave - You may be able to prove out your theory using a video analysis software. I have had success determining the frequencies and amplitudes of waggle for different crankbaits and comparing them. I use this free software: https://physlets.org/tracker/. I video my lures by pulling them down a test tank connected to a tram on a track with the camera mounted to the tram right above the lure. The software allows automatic tracking of a designated spot on the lure with a defined reference frame. The software basically plots points on a time vs distance scale and creates an equation for the sinusoidal curve. I don't see any reason why this couldn't also be used to track and plot roll and track and plot porpoising (from the side of the lure if you have a side window in a test tank). Here is a video showing the use of the software: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocLQFMMLIGw. You only need 1-2 seconds of video to do the analysis.
    1 point
  17. Consignment is a slow death. Hear that somewhere before.
    1 point
  18. The only problem is the owner has no vested interest in your product so they will try to sell what they have paid for before selling your product. If you can get a high visibility location in the store, you will be better off. Also, if the store closed abruptly, you are out your product if you can't get in to remove it. We never put product on consignment just for those reasons. We lost 38 stores during the recession but were paid for the product so no monetary loss. Just my .02.
    1 point
  19. I'm with you 'Rookie', if we are not buying them ($26 ea here) we are copying them, this brings the market back down to the blank price, which is less than a $ here. Next thing you know you are working for $2 an hour like they are. Ya know, most Jap baits they are beautifully finished, something Europe, U.S and WE can't seem to match--this is the killer here, we are still back in the 80's when it comes to innovation and lures. Pete
    1 point
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