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Greetings, My take on headbangerlures "headbanger" lures. 100% redesigned in CAD and 3D printed by myself. I called it the double barrel... because its butt looks like a side-by-side shotgun for two soft tails. I kinda' needed two tails for a larger bait. I haven't tested these it yet; obviously. But I have 2"/4" versions of this that Bass like to bite at. This is that, revised, and scaled up. I thought I'd try and do the same for musky etc. I plan on making about 5 of them if you have any color or pattern suggestions. I've already committed one to a bone with red dust speckle in the clear coat with those crawfish like plastic tails.

Here is my version of helping hand tool for holding lures for painting. The bearing holds the pin vise and lets you turn it freely while painting, The pvc is not glued so you can move it to different positions.

Yes, I believe he did. When I first started fishing spinnerbaits, I got the 2 spinnerbaits I kept seeing in magazines- the chartruese and white double Indiana Mann's spinnerbait used by Hank Parker and that Strike King one that came in tandem or double colorado. The Strike King blades had ridges on them at that time. When I was younger, I was such a sucker for those magazine pictures of a huge bass with a lure hanging out of its mouth. I did catch a lot of fish on those spinnerbaits. The Helicopter lure - not so much.

I have made some hardbaits and spinnerbaits that are dark blue on top, purple sides (sometime with blue stripes or scales) and a pink belly. They work well in low light conditions and stained water. I was replicating the tequila sunrise color of an old Strike King spinnerbait from the 1990s that had a mix of 40 blue and purple strands and 10 pink strands on the belly. I had alot of success with that bait.

well, plastic isnt going to be more than 400 on the very high side, and lead melts at like 620*, so im sure if it holds up to lead that plastic will not be a problem!

Not cheap but I have some molds that are over ten years old and they are still in great shape. I have the first Twinjector ever sold and it is going strong to this day. Everyone has there way of cleaning, I use a solvent called wax and grease remover. It works without scrubbing and dries fast. You can find it at an auto body supply store. It leaves the aluminum clean and bight. I live in California and it is not legal to sell it where I live but I get by. Use it and you will never use anything else. Don’t get the water based one!

+1. It’s about what you like.Yes there is a difference in brands for the most part. Here again it’s what works for you. I hate to sound so cryptic but it really is that simple . Just one thing to remember have fun!!

If you pour a great deal of lead baits- 1- An adequate exhaust booth is mandatory when pouring indoors 2- Know THE TEMPERATURE OF THE LEAD IS WHEN POURING- some types of small pouring/ladle pots will heat the lead over 900 degrees. Spend the $ on a pyrometer 3- Have your lead levels checked annually- never assume your levels are normal!!

Another option to consider is using hi temp red gasket rtv. It is not permanent and does well in modded lead head molds. I’m sure it would hold up against hot plastic.

Shoot me a pm with your email address and I will forward to you

Put them in the basement of a jail with a slab floor.

I think thieves should be skinned alive and then drawn and quartered