Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/17/2019 in all areas

  1. I haven't tried that product, but, since you are going to dip your baits anyway, try it once and see how it works. I would keep it separate, and do some experimenting. Everyone's process is different, so you need to see how your process affects it You can see if the paint affects it. You can see if reheats affect it. You can see if you can add it to other plastisol, or add color to it and pour baits with what's left. You are only risking 2 cups of plastisol, so the potential loss is minimal, and chances are you can still use it for something. A tip for dipping is to get a tall, thin dipping container, so you'll need less material to dip long baits. Frank (Rooty Tootie) is the expert when it comes to dipping.
    1 point
  2. I see this is an old topic but thought I would put my 2 cents in. I powder paint most of my brass lure bodies. A lot of them are bullet shaped. I use straight .031 SS wires used for making inline spinners and put a small bend at the end to keep the body from sliding off. Stir the powder paint to make it “fluffy”, heat the lure body and dip it into the powder paint then shake the excess off. Put it back over the heat to smooth out the paint (it should smooth and shiny). I tilt the wire at an angle and twist the wire so the lure body doesn’t get stuck and just starts to slide down the shaft. Then dunk the lure body into a bowl or glass of water to cool it a bit and pull the body off the wire. No paint in the hole or at least not enough to plug the hole. I can usually paint 2 or 3 bodies before having to heat up the wire and wipe the excess paint off to do a couple more. When it gunks up I cut the wire to a clean spot and continue painting until I have to get a new wire. Afterwards I use straight .031 SS wire and put on as many bodies as I can with gaps between the bodies and hold them with magnetic paper holders. I ‘stick the magnets onto the metal rack of the toaster oven and cure them. Sometimes have to use pliers to hold the wire and pull the cured bodies off. Occasionally I get a couple that don’t want to come off but usually just 1 or 2 here and there. Works well for me. I painted about 100 different sized bodies today. Hope this helps.
    1 point
  3. Exactly, Its easy to have a bunch of equipment and pay employees when your busy, But when your slow you either eat it or cut back, When you cut back people dont stick around. Then you find yourself with no help and a lot of work you can not get done.
    1 point
  4. We are now at 120 N Main St, Windsor, MO 65360
    1 point
  5. It's a flaw in the mold design. The gates need to be opened up just a hair
    1 point
  6. Yes in the side above the front hook hanger and in line with the lip,but stay towards the bottom edge of the lip. It will work with a #9,but knock a 1/4" hole for that one. I will try and post pictures.
    1 point
  7. Rapala makes a sinking version of SSR too, so suspending mod would mean drilling out some lead from both sides of belly hanger, would be easier mod. Worse that can happen, stuff some led back in ur drilled holes.
    1 point
  8. re-read what was posted. under the lip and in line with line tie. go get a clear shad rap and you will see where the existing weight is. use this for reference because the glass shad raps may be weighted a bit differently, but it will give you an idea
    1 point
  9. Hey basssj, there are several things you can do to a #7 shad rap. I have poured lead and used split shot in the sides, but the best I have found is take a 3/16" diameter icepick and poke a hole in line with the front hook hanger and the bottom edge of the lip. You want to keep it as low as possible. You should feel the lead already there with the icepick, that way you can slide right above it. If you get the hole to high the bait will have a wide rolling action and it will not dive as deep and may not run correctly either. Make sure the hole is perfectly straight, if it is crooked, your bait may not run right and probably can't be tuned. If you try to drill the bait, you stand a good chance of damaging the the thru-wire or the existing lead. You should get some 3/16" x 3/8" steel dowel pins. they fit perfect. Then add a thin coat of Devcon and this bait will suspend in 50-52 degree water with the same killer action. I have modified literally hundreds of shad raps, so I hope this helps. These weighted shad raps have won many tournaments on my home lakes of Hartwell, Russell, Keowee, and Clarks Hill. Good luck and let us know how they turn out for you. I ruined a bunch before I started getting them right.
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...
Top