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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/18/2019 in all areas
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This gives me some ideas. The round-nose cutters are very expensive and lose their cutter edge, requiring servicing. The main cutter on my dup machines is a saw cutter, but this gives ridges. If I used a mill bit as a follower, I could skim off the ridges and add detail, also, the opposite positioning of the second cutter might prevent bounce, enabling a faster speed to be used. Thanks for posting Clemmy Dave1 point
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Interesting. My method was a through rod (SS) with the lure master carved after drilling the block. Masters coated with D2T for hardness. The craw gives an indication of the cutter used, must have been a fine round-nose mill in order to achieve that detail. I would guess that two cutters were used; one to rough cut and the fine mill for finishing. one cutter on each side for a single pass operation. Dave1 point
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Thanks Mike. I just ordered a beaker that is just over 4 inches tall and holds 3/4 of a cup. Should fit the bill without wasting too much plastic. Joe1 point
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I believe it probably is a BassTackle mold. Their description say six cavity side inject if you click their hyper link. Plus the alignment pins look like their product.1 point
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I'll be honest, I love the Caney Creek Croaker, its a great mold once you master it.1 point
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I work in a garage in Denver and it can get pretty cold during the winter. I use a 80,000 BTU torpedo heater to heat the garage and I place molds/injectors on old paint cans in front of it to warm them up. A couple of my molds will likely benefit from preheating all year round so I'm going to keep a small supply of diesel on hand for the heater.1 point
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Interesting thoughts. Though Dave you could also say it’s all based on drag ;) If you are interested, look up TRIZ. Really interesting research on inventing and design innovation. As for business, I’ve never sold a lure, but of course have thought about it. I decided that if I ever did it would have to be based on quality. The lure itself would have some sort of intrinsic value that brings pleasure to the owner, beyond just action, etcetera. If you look up some of the Japanese boutique top water “Surface Game” craftsman like Budd & Joey. It becomes about the enjoyment of fishing with a fine instrument, not just the catching. clemmy1 point
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This may help, though I’ve never done a walleye: https://www.mckenziesp.com/Walleye-Paint-Schedule-W1084.aspx craig1 point
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I found the a beaker (like from your days in science class) works well for this. It holds up to the heat & in tall & much more narrow than a pyrex cup.1 point
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Bob did confirm he made it for hand pouring and we’re working out getting a new one. Thank you everyone for the help.1 point
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Mostly it's your swimbaits that you want top inject because of how the CNC has to cut them. If they make them side inject and you try to laminate that bait with a twin injector, it will laminate left side one color, right side the other color. In nature, usually the top is darker, not one side. The work around is to make an injection port on each cavity and you can rotate your blending block so your dark color fills the back or top of the bait. Here's a pic with a top inject mold and the swimbaits to give you an idea. They say a pic is worth a thousand words.1 point