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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/20/2019 in all areas
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Yeah, thanks. I realized what a stupid question that was after I thought about it, pouring it back in, if I could would be a disaster. I tried dipping today in a narrow glass and it worked pretty well using less that 3/4 of a cup. The bait colors didn't leak into it much so it should be good for a few more dips.
3 points -
The Clearasol you use to dip the baits will firm up just like the swim bait.. DO NOT pour it back in the bottle..After it cools it will be a chunk . Save it for the next time you dip . When ready to remelt cut it up into small chunks and add a little fresh to it and remelt then dip again.2 points
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No, haven’t tried Autoborn. Virtually every paint brand carries a highly pigmented white for color basecoating.1 point
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Apdriver gave you a good way to check your bobbin. Remember to check not only where it comes out but also where the thread enters the tube. What you are describing typically happens when there is a small burr but I haven't encountered that with any of my ceramic bobbins.1 point
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Temp probe. Laser is nice but you're going to want a probe for laminates, so get it instead of the laser. Like Frank said, you need to know what your temps are. How long do you keep heating it if you don't know how hot it is? How do you shoot good looking laminates if you don't have the temps close to each other? You don't. You will overheat and scorch your plastic w/o one.1 point
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What paints are you using? Guys that airbrush their baits don't generally talk about the paints bleeding into dipping plastic so maybe a different choice in paints could solve the bleed issue?1 point
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You may be able to twist a Q tip on the ceramic and if it pulls at the cotton fibers it’s probably grooved. You can check the eyes on a fishing pole using the same technique.1 point
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Not unless you have a business permit or get it from China . Some fly shops might give you a break on a box. Might try Grandpa Bob's fly tying .1 point
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You need to get you a temp gauge first. Then heat slowly and check the temp often. When it get above 330 it will be about ready to use and add color and glitter. Until you really know what the plastic is like when at the right temp you need to check often. Not knowing what the temp is you will go through the quart you have fast and not know what happened to it.1 point
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Im not a huge fan of Polytrans. I actually like the LifeTone better just wish you could get them in smaller bottles. as BobP said the Superhide White works great as a base coat though.1 point
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The only Polytranspar paint I use is their Superhide White, which is the best color basecoat I have found. Contains lots of pigment to cover fast and dries quickly to a hard smooth surface. As far as colors go, I use any brand that catches my eye and haven’t had significant problems with any. I particularly like Wildlife Colors, which carries some nice flakes, pearls, etc.1 point
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This may help, though I’ve never done a walleye: https://www.mckenziesp.com/Walleye-Paint-Schedule-W1084.aspx craig1 point
