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Urethane will hold up just fine. It does kind of depend on the type urethane your using but get that debate started and you will be deployed before it's over. Your not married to the bait. Clearcoat it and enjoy! Safe travels and cone home safe from deployment. From one veteran to another thank you for your service!

.Empty .22 short cartridge with 3-#9 TSS Tungston shot. Pull the end cap out a #9 TSS shot shell to get the shot. Regards, Blades

Vodkaman, i was able to use your calculator on my first ever pours this morning. I got a sinking, very slow sinking, and floating flat sided crankbait with only adding a very small amount of lead to stabilize it! Super awesome and easy to use! Seriously one of the most helpful tools I’ve come across since i started making baits!

Good to know! And from an active duty to a vet, thank you for paving the way! jake

I wish! Lol i live on post so my “workshop” is two folding tables on the front porch, a few tools, an airbrush, and a bunch of paint lol. But i just order some diamond clear coat and I’ve heard of people dipping that and hanging a wire off the bottom to keep it from pooling so i think I’ll give that a try and see how it goes!

Be sure the rounds have already been shot. Otherwise, you can get a really loud, onetime rattle. Hahaha

The working time is very long. Some experienced users let it sit for 10-15 minutes after mixing to get the thickness they want to apply. The rotation time needed is also longer, perhaps twice that of D2T. Users report it is more prone to fisheyes, so you should be careful not to get grease or oil on the bait before application.

I would appreciate it if all those that requested copies of the ballast calculator brought feedback and suggestions of improvements to the table, either by PM or posted here. Many thanks for the encouraging response. Dave

I like it I get to do some shooting and solve my problem Win Win

For a sinking stick worm I like the MF Soft Sinking. It doesn't require quite as much salt as the Super Soft which is slightly buoyant. I feel like the MF-Soft Sinking with 0.25:1 salt gives me the same fall rate as .33:1 Super Soft and is a slightly more durable bait with close to the same flexibility since it has less salt to stiffen it up. The thing is everybody has a different feel for it. Ultimately you may just need to try some things. I can only tell you what I like. I can't tell you what you will like.

I've made a few injectors, and I've found smaller diameter ones seem to inject easier. Maybe its just my workmanship since I don't make them everyday, but I've made a few. I never planned to make any injectors at all, but I had a similar situation. I made a mold for a customer and at the last minute he asked me where to get an injector big enough to fill it. Oops. LOL. I made three of them, and took all the best parts to make the one I sent him with his mold. Back then Bass Tackle didn't have one big enough to fill his mold. I haven't used every injector out there, but I have used a bunch of them and like I said in my other post I send my own mold customers to Bass Tackle to buy injectors. Ha! The picture of the two I kept from that batch is still posted here. LOL.

I've used injector from a number of places, and I am partial to Bass Tackle. Most are good, but I just like the Bass Tackle ones better. I even send my own customers over there for injectors when they ask. I could make injectors, but they do such a nice job its not worth it for me.

I have been told that Polysol remelts at a slightly lower temperature than some other plastics. If that is true it might be a good choice for those first colors. I never really tried it for that. Chad sent me some samples and they are good plastic, but other than testing some simple baits I didn't do much else with it.

I have one of the soft plastic machines. Love it. You can do glitter too. It's all in the pour speed.

We all use different top coats. I like D2T so about an hour is more than enough. If you have a basic workshop, it is very easy to set up a simple turner. Do some reading, buy a slow motor and get stuck in. It is strangely rewarding to see your work turning Dave

Most guys who use Iwata brushes really like them. To me, the right brush is determined by the tip size you need. Iwatas can be had in truly tiny tip sizes but which size do you need? A .2 mm tip HP can paint very fine lines if your skill and control is up to the task and if you are shooting properly thinned paint. But it isn’t ideal for thicker pearls and flakes. Maybe you can use your Badger 150 for that and a small tip Iwata for finer work. If you want to stick with one brush for everything, an Iwata Revolution BR (.3 mm) or Eclipse (.35 mm) will do it all. One thing you will notice: the smaller the tip size, the more expensive the airbrush and the more costly the repair parts if needed. And the smaller the tip, the more exactly the brush needs to be fitted to use it, so be extra careful with those fine tipped brushes.

Careful, once you start you cant stop.

I predict this will be the single most viewed post here in history LOL

Has anyone tried this stuff? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RS6Z4D/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=A2DN1G625QLW3W&psc=1