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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/11/2019 in all areas

  1. The perfect top coat only exists where Rainbow farting Unicorns exist ..Nathan
    3 points
  2. Ya what Mcluvin175 said, he drops his Mcchicken all the time and it leaves a oily spot...
    2 points
  3. Hello, I don’t post near as much as I used to, but am still here every couple days. I saw the new thread about the JR Hopkins DVD and I started thinking about the past of TU. I wonder if we shouldn’t have a “Lost and Found” sticky for formerly active members? More to let us know they’re okay, and just not into building, or having a difficult time, or whatever. Similarly, perhaps we should have a “In Memoriam” sticky. I know we unfortunately have had multiple threads in the past about Members who have passed, but they’re hard to find if you don’t know to look. Maybe each could have a link to the thread (if there was one), a link to their posts (as a way of honoring their contribution to the hobby) and a comments section. Craig
    1 point
  4. What do you mean by polysyllabic? Is that both polysol? I see, my auto correct tried to do the same to me! Thanks, Joe
    1 point
  5. 1 point
  6. Nail polish remover has scents and additives, best to buy acetone from the paint department.
    1 point
  7. Go back into the cad drawing and add the hook. Manufactures have dimensions on all there hooks.
    1 point
  8. I spent some time on the phone today with Josh over at LureWorks. He told me that regular paint thinner and mineral spirit thinner didn't work with their paint. I had called because my brush was clogging up after just a few minutes of painting. I had added the paint thinner as a possible solution and my paint started getting gummy. I had to disassemble my brush several times for cleaning. He mentioned their retarder and also acetone as cleaners. He also suggested I turn down the air because it might be drying up too fast. I tried it (once only) and I was able to paint my whole session without problems. I also brought up the lack of videos/instruction on the use and he said they were running behind on that. I wish I had known about the retarder so I could have bought them all together. Shipping is pretty expensive. Joe
    1 point
  9. I use it all the time. Lacquer thinner - found at Home Depot. Works great and does not hurt brush.
    1 point
  10. I buy medium plastic, and then add one or the other when I want softer or harder plastic. Softener makes stiff plastic softer. I add it when I add salt, because salt makes plastic stiffer, or if I'm pouring finesse worms. Hardener makes soft plastic stiffer. I add it to my swimbait plastic, to make the tails swim better. Some baits just work better with harder plastic. I don't ever add hardener to hot plastic. Add hardener before you heat your plastic, and mix it thoroughly, or you'll wind up with hard lumps from unmixed hardener. For reheats, where I want to add more hardener, I mix the hardener into new plastic first, so it is completely mixed, and then cut up the stuff I want to reheat, and add the new stuff before I reheat it all together. I add heat stabilizer so my reheated plastic doesn't get scorched when I reheat it all to 350 to kick over the new stuff.
    1 point
  11. After you get the big stuff out, spray the inside with wd-40 and wipe them out with a paper towel or rag.
    1 point
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