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If you are having trouble centering the stream, find a Lee's pot to try pouring with. (Haha, some of us older guys aren't so steady these days.)

I just started using DAP Rapid Fuse for sealing wood bodies. So far so good. It is carried by my local Walmart for $4.97 for a 0.85 oz. bottle. I have one bottle that I have been using for 3 months and it has not gone bad yet. https://www.walmart.com/ip/DAP-RapidFuse-All-Purpose-Adhesive/52199544 The baits I make tend to be on the larger size (5" to 12", 1 oz. to 5 oz.). So, I like using a larger bottle superglue.

We specialize in fishing tackle packaging and everything is made here in the USA! Give us a call we'd be happy to help. www.blisterpackaging.com 800-341-5961

Might wanna take a look at Jacobs.... they are at least pneumatic powered.... cost a lot lest that a big auto machine... not sure about shipping to Australia. http://stores.jacobsbaits.com/injection-machines/

Little more info on the bait I dissected... B1 is the large ballast and fixed in placement - it weighed 2.1 Grams B2 is a "rattling" ballast - able to move back and forth laterally across the bait - .095 grams B3 was a very small ballast weight... did not remove it - but couldn't be more than - .1 -. 2 grams at most. The bait is 86mm long - measuring tail (not hanger) to end of lip - the lip is approx 27mm in length.

Ok, I made a second foray into my garage sale stash for this weekend looking for you some electric red worms. Nada, but I did find another 100 pack of electric blue, 2 15 pack electric blue and 2 15 packs of black blue. Are you interested in any of these?

Hey Girls_Hunt_Fish_2k I am cleaning out my deceased father's garage. I found a box with 2 package of 100 7 inch purple gator tails, never opened. (1) 15 count pack of same, never opened..and 1 15 count electric blue, never opened. Are you interested? Not sure of shipping costs. I'm located in central Illinois

Hey Guys - Starting to lineup my winter projects!!! So on top of new softbaits, kayak mods and everything else in life - I felt the needed to take a crack at the "hunting" crank bait. While I like to think I have a very technically sound understand of engineering principals... half of Dave's posts started to go over my head!! LOL!!! Being a more visual person.... I put together a small diagram based on a crankbait that I cut in half. Figured I'd start with something that's know to work perfectly - then see what I can do to screw it up!! Just looking for a little feedback regarding if I've read the posts/assumptions correctly and if I'm heading in the proper direction. I would like to utilize a deep diving bill... which from what I read could be more of a challenge - I may back off that a bit and angle it down a little - but if at all possible I'd like to make this bait dive down a solid 8 feet. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. My plan is to CAD up this bait and run the halves in ABS through a 3D printer. Thinking about screwing the halves together at first which will allow me to open/move the ballast around as necessary.... might even make the lips attach in a manner I can just remove/replace as well instead of trimming so I can be more precise in knowing how much I've taken off, etc. Plus I can just run a bunch in the machine and know exactly what is different on each. Any feedback would be great and when I get further along through the fall/winter I'll post up my progress. Thanks! J.

Enforcer has um .. https://www.enforcerbaitmolds.com/product-page/2-inch-swim-bait-mold

I’ve dipped pop maxes and similar baits with gill slits in the alumi-uv. You can either clean out the slits with a toothpick before curing it or clean them out afterwards with a dremel. The only problem with clearing them out before curing is that any clear coat that you get in the passages inside of the gill slits won’t cure. This leaves uncurred resin in the passages that would need to be rinsed out with some isopropyl alcohol. I’ve done both , but now I usually just clean them out with a dremel after curing. I just didn’t like the idea of having the uncurled resin sitting inside the passages of the bait and having to flush it out with alcohol, which could soften the topcoat.

Your cream, opaque colored baits are ABS but your clear ones are made of polycarbonate. If you have clear ABS then you actually have MABS and its impact characteristics drop considerably. The nicer baits are actually sonic welded together as it is easier than glue to control and will allow the bait to run truer out of the box.

Thanks Mark. I found some that will work for me and bought a 1000. thanks again

The main drawback to uv polyester resin seems to be the cost. If you use, say, 1/4 oz of resin on a bait, you get 28 baits out of a 200 gram bottle of DecorRom resin, costing $22 or so. Alumilite Alumi-UV resin is similarly costly. The Solarez resin is much cheaper but contains wax flakes that leave a white haze on the lure when cured. If your pocketbook can stand the strain, uv cured polyester resin is a really fast and user friendly, very durable topcoat.

What is the intended use? I buy mine at Dollar Tree. 2 bottles (0.28 oz total) for 1 dollar. So a little over 7 bucks for 2 oz. Don' t have to worry about bulk going bad once opened. The bottles don't clog or dry up easily. More controlled dispensing. Easily can coat a few balsa bass cranks, glue line ties, etc...

I did have the same moving ballast in all the baits, up 1/4" above the line tie to rear hook hanger line, and 1/4" behind a line drawn perpendicular to that line up from the 3 gram belly hanger/weight combination. My next prototype would have been with no moving ballast, and a 4 gram belly weight, repeating the longer bill experiment, if these hadn't succeeded. Fortunately, I don't have to go to through that exercise. While I enjoy making baits, I'd much rather find one that works, and just duplicate that one. I am lazy!