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The company was changed to Bait Mavericks. Don't know if they're still in business. (336) 300-7984

I can offer some insight to this, as I work for this company. Here is how it works in a nut shell. The raw plastic is sucked up into the cylinder, and pumped into the "cooker". Depending on the shot weight of the mold, for example, this mold has a shot weight of 1.6lbs of plastic per shot. So, we use a "cooker" that has a total volume of 4.5 lbs. Here is the reason why, after it injects the mold with 1.6 lbs of plastic, it needs a "recover time". This allows for the 1.6 lbs that was taken out to be reheated to around 350 degrees. You would think a 3 lbs, double the weight, would do the trick, but this mold opens roughly every two minutes, so a bigger heat exchanger is required to actually bring the room temp plastic to 350 degrees. The pressure and temperature are set according to the mold size, total cavities, and believe it or not, color.some colors, especially red, tend to run hotter that say a white. I still havent figured that one out and I've been here at southern plastics for 6 years now. Also, the salt and glitter content will give you fits at times as well. These exchangers are pretty basic in design. It has an inlet, and an outlet, the plastic goes in and runs thru channels inside the exchanger which has between 4 and 6 heating elements depending on the size, and out the outlet, thru the nozzle and into the mold. Pretty basic, but gets the job done. Hope this helps.

Info I got is "That is a special process Creme does. We made the bone colour worms and shipped them then they dye them somehow with a non bleed pigment. Would never tell me how"

That would work initially but dye doesnt sit still. Over time the dye would migrate and the worm would become one color. My guess would be some sort of core shot that can only be done with on a mold with a sliding gate.

Just dip in white first then the real color you want. Your results will be very pleasing. Cutting tails off can be tricky if the second color is not hot enough to bond.

A buddy of mine used to own Ohio Pro Lure. He used a piece of clear tubing to create a quick change feature on his Max Series Spinnerbaits.

Spike-It makes a garlic dip that works pretty well also. It is pretty permanent, usually does not get sticky, etc., etc. But, keakar is right about the best results coming from molding the different tail color. The color you get from dipping depends on the color you are dipping over. Dipping a white gives good results while dipping a black gives lousy results. Molding always gives excellent color results.

Asking for the brand of plastisol is like asking if I prefer blonds, brunettes, or redheads. Of course, the answer is yes. Each of us are going to have our own preference and telling you I prefer Alumilite will only fire up those that prefer another. As for reheating, well it won't discolor as much as you think if done correctly. Adding a little heat stabilizer after the first heat, using a microwave on medium power and mixing frequently, adding a percentage of new/fresh plastisol with each heat, all help. When it does start to discolor, you take what is left and save it for a colored mix later. I suspect now that I have broken the ice some of the power powers will chime in. I do have a narrow but tall lab grade beaker that I have used to clear coat some plastics. Check out the laboratory supply houses for that item.

Found this very recent video by FLW pro David Dudley, he takes an old Rattle bait and shows how he foils. This should be helpful fir guys that need a visual aid ( like me)