Leaderboard

why not use the other side too so you can get 8 in one go..!

Another technique that will loosen your head/hook bond is demolding by grabbing your hook and pulling while that head is still very warm. Never grab the hook and always demold by grabbing the sprue. You’re remelting that anyway and I grab it with a pair of pliers and pull the bait out of the mold. Small jaws rec on cutting the sprue is spot on also. I would recommend a good pair of gate shears that are made specifically for the job. As a rule, they will shear the gate very clean and flush and won’t require any cleanup, filing, or what have you to clean up the shear. Xuron makes a very nice set and never use them for anything else except shearing sprues. Other uses will tend to dull them. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=xuron+2175&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8-Lx2szB5QIVPf_jBx1XvwTPEAAYASAAEgJXMPD_BwE&hvadid=153688645198&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9025854&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=6606773216449222227&hvtargid=aud-649564993678%3Akwd-300332154&hydadcr=15246_9501196&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_8zrzd8cnoi_b

Another quick observation, try using a gate shear and cut the sprue off. I could be wrong but I'm guessing the lead is still a little warm when you are breaking off the sprue. If it is, there is a good chance you are causing the lead to break free from the hook and the wire. I know a lot of people were having issues with the mid west finesse jig mold because they would break the sprue off instead of cutting it. Working the sprue back and forth or twisting it off is something I stopped doing because light wire hooks would get slight bends in them and sometimes I'd actually work the head loose. Try using a gate shear, diagonal cutter will work but you may not be able to get close enough.

What Guy said...........After marking the lip slot on your blank before it's shaped just line the lip slot mark up with the top edge of the vice and make the cut using a hand saw. Just make sure to keep the saw blade touching the vice on both sides of the blank. Ben

It looks like you've been pouring for awhile, so I won't ask the basic questions. First of all like Smalljaw mentioned, your lead may be too soft. So adding antimony will help harden the lead which in turn will make it a bit harder to pour, which in turn will make the jigs harder and keep the hooks from possibly moving in the lead. I also use the same lead to antimony ratio that Smalljaw uses, sometimes a little harder. I mix my own, so I don't always get 5% antimony, maybe more, which doesn't hurt at all. On another note you mentioned that you have deeper grooves in the sprues when you take them off with this lead. Are you cutting the sprues off or do you break them off. If you are breaking them off, many times you will break off the sprue and it will leave a divot, which you will never file off because of the hole left. This divot is usually the result of using harder lead, and the lead doesn't crack smooth with the head. If your grooves are from using gate shears, and you still have a hard time filing them, then your lead is still too hard. These are just some observations for you to look into. I'm not there, so I can't fully help. Good Luck and post back when you found your solution.

I get same issue at times when building rods and laying down the label/stickers.... oils and contamination is the issue. After ALOT of trial and error.. more error... and research.... Marks response above is you're best bet.... spray a clearcoat (could even be krylon from a can if that's compatible with your paint) - let it dry then epoxy - use a clean brush to apply. That has been working for me. Do NOT wipe down with alcohol or a paper towel to "get stuff off".... I found alcohol can cause issues as well as the glues in paper towels. J.

Welcome to TU!!!! You answered your own question, the only thing that changed is the lead. You need some antimony, I purchase 3%-5% antimonial lead from Roto metals. https://www.rotometals.com/antimonial-lead-ingots-5-pounds-3-5-antimony-lead/