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Oh, and its also easier to drill the pin holes in the block before cutting... youll need an acurate center line around the block to line up the tru hole on each side.... heres an easy way to mark the center of any flat piece of material

No, I am saying it isn't even worth it for them. I have yet to see or hear of a large manufacturer using spincasting for soft plastics. They all either use vertical or horizontal injection machines.

Hi everyone I found this forum from a gent named Smalljaw and I'm grateful for it. A few months ago I was given some lure making stuff it looks like it's mainly for Salmon and Trout but I'm a Bass and Pike angler so I thought I could use it for that, looking forward to learning how to tie maribou and hair jigs and meeting fellow anglers Pleased to meet you all

Ok so I paint swimbaits and use epoxy as a clear coat. I hate using it because its a pain around joints, especial tight joints. So I'm looking for someone who is willing to spray my swimbaits after I paint them. These would be my clients baits that I paint... and will look like this, I paint them and send them to you and you clear coat them and send them either to the client or back to me. And of course you get paid. So is there anyone out there that is willing to work out a deal with me? Thank you so much Donnie

If it sets to fast, yes i did not read all of it. The pressure pot cure will help a bunch, Or use some longer resin, if its polyester back off on the hardener.

Welcome aboard. You'll find an incredible group of fishing and lure building enthusiasts here. What they create often borders on art, and the knowledge you'll gain will definitely help you build better lures and catch more fish.

All I know is this is a VMC custom 2/0 hook. Would like to know the mold as well

yes but bottom line is its easier, cheaper and 5x faster to do it with regular injection molds so unless you just like wasting money, buying a centrifugal spin mold setup is only worth it for large manufacturers making 100k baits a week thats all we are trying to tell him with enough time and practice you can do all the different tail laminates and probably do them as fast as with a regular injection mold, but there is still no way to do the top and bottom half laminates as far as i know

Thanks for the input! I finally found some reviews on the Du-Bro Pro - there were a couple on Amazon - and they were not good. For now at least, I will stick with the Hagen's bender that I have. Heck, I have been so tied up with other stuff (work), that I really haven't had time in a while to do anything with tackle making! However, this was in the back of my mind. Pete

In my opinion repaints ( done right ) should cost more! with just the sanding and prepping time alone you really don't make much money, if at all. There is a night and day difference between a repaint and a new blank.

I am newer to this but my 2 cents is buy quality. I was practicing with garbage paints that came as a "free sample" with my IWATA and was getting very frustrated. I purchased some high quality Createx and Wicked paints and it was really night and day. I cannot give you much advice on brands other than those 2 (wicked is made by createx) but like I said just make sure you get something of quality or you will be frustrated quickly like I was.

I have not tried to dubro Bender either. I've been looking at them but they're too expensive for me to buy when I already have a Hagens Bender a twistech and I just bought a twistech magnum that will do .051 wire. I do have the adapter for my Hagens to do . 051 wire. The dubro Bender is pretty spendy for doing the same thing as a Hagens or a twistech. the twistech Magnum that will do .051 wire cost me $120 plus shipping. That's a heck of a lot less than the Dubro Bender.