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I bought some 1/4" SS ball bearings on E-Bay and when I open a new bottle I put one in and it helps mix up the paint, when the bottle is empty I just put the ball in the next bottle. Last for ever and it works some suppliers do it in there paints. Wayne

PDF Tutorial Attached Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes The following Tutorial is for those of us who want to create very realistic finishes with a minimum of hassle. This is not to say it is the only or best way to achieve that goal, but I found it to be a very viable alternative to decals, and much less costly. Truth be told, I also find it easier to do. In addition, the supplies are more readily available. With very little practice, anyone can get wonderful results. I developed this technique after realizing that it is not practical to print on foil. Doing so, is a tribute to Murphy Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf

For me, I really do not care too much about matte vs shiny finish on the lures, but I do like not having to spray the molds with Pam anymore. Permanent no-stick is a good thing, especially with baits that have a lot of fine ribs on them.

I am sure other things would work too. The KBS says it can go on engine parts and engines typically run some where in the mid 200 F range. It says non-yellowing to 300 degrees. Of course, we are injecting in the low to mid 300's. But, I do not care if it yellows as long as it does not come off. I wonder if a 2 epoxy would work as well. Not sure on their temperature ratings though. Super glue might still be somewhat porous and not bring the mold to a gloss would be my guess. Probably difficult to apply I would think. Who knows though.

Jann’s Netcraft has some

I would use a metal bead behind the clevic. Metal rotating on plastic will cause problems. Allen

Thank you Cadman

If you look on the bead package, you will see what size hole it has. Ideally a hole that is . 038-.040 will work. An .05 or .06 will work as well, it will just be a little looser. If it's not written on the package, measure it or call the manufacturer and ask them.

@BobP you're my saviour dude. I spent so many hours carving that bait I was nearly crushed when that epoxy got screwed up. I already applied another new coat and instead of sitting here worrying about it I can rest easy thanks to your insight. Thanks again man!

also the reason im looking to make my own.

Putting a properly measure red and mixed layer of epoxy over one that didn’t cure properly will cure the bad epoxy and fix the problem.

I totally agree on the airbrush restorer. I thought I did a good job keeping my brush clean, until I soaked it overnight in the restorer. There was a bunch of little particles of paint that came out. It really does wonders.

I've never done this so hopefully someone with real knowledge will chime in, but I'll take a guess that if you make your mix kinda thick, less liquid, you can achieve this effect? I bit of heat set to keep the drops in place while you work around? The prices on these things indicates they take a while to make...

I actually ended up just getting a cheap bandsaw off Amazon and use it to cut the shape and lip slot out. It's worked good so far. If I ever try to start producing a lot of lures at a time I'll probably just make a mold of the bait and cast it in resin.

Mason jar with wax paper to keep the threads clean. I also add a little shot of Bloxygen.

Agreed! AWESOME idea on the cup washers!

Never seen this one, a band saw jig looks pretty cool too.

Every epoxy I've used has been measured by volume, not weight, because the different components have different weights. Check the label on your epoxy to see what ration, by volume, the manuf. recommends.