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There are a couple of small things wrong but nothing too bad. Apdriver mentioned one of them already, .035" on a 1/4oz in-line is too heavy, .028" is much better. The main issue is the blade is 1 size too big. The weight is fine for that size blade but it is Tungsten so it is a little more compact so you have the length of a smaller bait. If you look at a #6 Panther Martin which I think is 1/4oz, you'll notice the bottom of the blade doesn't extend past the lure body. In-line blades ride on the wire so the wire diameter and bead size determine how close the blade lays next to the body. If the wire is too heavy combined with larger beads then the blade sticks out further increasing the likelihood of it catching the line. Then the blade size being a bit too long just provides more area to catch the line when the bait enters the water. So before you make wholesale changes, try dropping the size beads first, then drop blade size and then wire. Start with the easiest thing first, good luck.

When you say you didn't have the issues with the lead are you talking about everything else being the same? Lead or Tungsten shouldn't make a difference as long as the weight is the same, I mean the difference in size might be better in the current but it shouldn't be a dramatic difference. I think your design will work but you need to make small changes and it might mean that you make a dozen lures to test out. Try the easiest things first and do 1 at a time so you know what change made the difference. The first change I'd make is going to a smaller blade, a size 4 would probably be better and also help your bait get down. If you don't have a smaller blade you can make your wire a little longer, about 1/8" but either change the blade or lengthen the wire, don't do both.

I am using a #4 blade, .026 wire, 3/16 do it worm nose sinker and a 5/32" bead behind the blade, and a #8 hook. Total weight is a touch over 5/16. I do the same for total weight of 3/16, but with 1/8 worm nose sinker and #3 blade. Messed around with many combos but these are the only ones that did not have any issues. These work great equally with slow and fast retrieves.

That's the explanation I was expecting! Thank you! The first one left me a little disappointed...but you didn't let me down.

I think it may be a center of gravity thing. If the blade is getting fouled on the case, the bait is probably tumbling on the cast, instead of traveling ass first. Try adding more beads behind the clevis as spacers, so the body begins at the back of the blade. That way, it should cast truer, like a spook with more weight toward the rear.

Got bored tonight and melted down all my mistakes , and experiments from the last 2 years or so. All colors mixed together. All types of glitter. Took all my leftover black stuff, melted that into one. Black was easy...it stayed black. The multi-color stuff came out a sort of a light clay? color. Or maybe clayish going towards grays? Gave me about a quart of plastic to melt into something else. What new color or colors.would you guys make out of this color. And black doesn't count! I still have a lot of used stuff leftover. I may end up melting that down too. Mir all my greens, oranges, fluorescent, etc into each family it belongs with and use it for something else.

the lead lure bodies were the length of the blade the tungsten's are less than half the size

Boss makes some very good powder paint and has some unique colors as well. Available at fishingskirts.com

Thanks everyone for the replies I will try each and see if it gets better The main reason I have been using a heavier wire is due to the debris I fish around in these tiny creeks I used a smaller wire at the beginning and had a ton of bent lures also with the current being so strong I have been trying tungsten to try and get my spinner in those deep holes faster I noticed last year using lead it was harder for me to get my lure down in the front of those deep holes current kept sucking it to the middle or end of the run I really didn't have all these problems with the lead though and the bead on top is something I tried this season because I saw some lure builder on Facebook make them that way and being the new guy at this I thought I was missing something, Again thank you so much for all the pointers

A 10# sledge works well. Lolol Actually I have homebuilt hook tools made with stainless Tig welding wire. So I dip with the hook up rather quickly then also hook the line tie eye and tap on the edge of the fluid bed. It's a bit tricky but it works.

Both of these companies have good scents... https://www.ispikeit.com/category/70/scents https://www.lurecraft.com/LUNKER-SCENT/products/28/

Don't put a bead on top. Put a small bead after the spinner. Size the wire so it is about half the diameter of the opening in the blade. Put a larger bead, about half the diameter of the body on next. Then put the body on last. Mark is correct about the balance and the extra bead to push the body back will help. Toad is correct about the blade tilt being impacted by a bead on top, but that is why I said no bead on top at all. It is impossible for me to draw in the forum and I don't have a sketch to give you, but the blade angle when it spins can't hit the body or it will either prevent it from spinning alltogether, or it will tangle like you say you are getting. Adding extra beads, not too small but not too big, pushing the body back, is the only I know that will fix it.

I second what Larry told you, with one minor addition. If you keep the master in the original mold so the Alumifoam can't expand and deform the cavity, it will work. The only problem will be what to do with the overexpansion. That stuff is tough. I made some floating jigs from Alumifoam and poured some bodies only so a friend could cut his own slits and glue in his own hooks. It didn't work so well for him, the Alumifoam is so tough it was almost impossible to cut. LOL Figure out how to remove the excess foam before it fully cures if you go that route.

Thanks Les. One other thing, something my wife pointed out. The only thing that sticks to silicone is silicone so I didn't use to use mold releases. Still, I have noticed that some things still adhere some. To improve wear and tear, I now shoot the mold with UMR. It only takes a quick shot and it seems to make the mold last longer.

Facebook, Print-A-Lure. click on photos have a look there.

Just underneath the blade place another bead one size smaller with the one you have . can't see if you put one on top but if you did replace it with the smallest bead possible so that it does not interfere wit the tilt. Also a more side ways cast keeps the line from forming an overlap that might foul the blade . Especially if the wind is blowing That is the only time an inline blade ever failed me on a cast.

I know Smalljaw will have a solution. My guess is wiresize. .035 is too large IMO. One other may be a spacing issue but Smalljaw can advise if there’s an issue.

Hahaha You sneaky devil!

There are some really good threads on hand dipping tubes on this Forum. Search dipping tubes and cutting tails on tubes Personally, I found injecting Do-it Tube molds a LOT easier, but not everyone agrees! The dipping part is straight forward, but cutting the tails always was a problem for me. There are some great posts on cutting tails, and here are some video links: Here is a really handy tool to use: https://www.lurecraft.com/Tube-Dipping-Rod/productinfo/2X141/ note the marks on the rods to make them the same length each time. Here's a link to the Do-it tube molds: https://store.do-itmolds.com/Tube-Molds_c_291.html Warning: If you start with these be prepared to end up buying a LOT of sizes and spline configurations! It gets really addictive!!! Good luck!! Andy

Just wanted to send a shout out to Lureworks. I received my order today. I placed it on the 16th, so that's pretty darned fast in my book. Real darned fast considering the circumstances of the country. Thank you Lureworks, I'll definitely be placing more orders.

What I do is melt down the lead or tire weights (separately). Then I use a muffin pan I found in the kitchen (wife looked for that for quite awhile,lol) to make ingots. I keep them in separated boxes so it's much easier when comes to mix them in the pot.

I cleaned out the garage last week, whew I'm tired... 50 yrs accumulation of crap, and 3 big bays .. House used to belong to my father in law , and his father in law b4 that .. anyway .. found a bunch of lead used on chimneys, valleys, and such .. big folded over sheets of the stuff .. guesstimate 200 lbs or more. It was filthy covered in all kinds of crud. I melted a chunk and the slag floated right to the top, made some 1lb ingots and now like new. Also found bout 15 big 20 gal metal barrels full of old tire weights, in back of garage under a old tarp and wood. I don't make jigs .. but I use the lead for belly weights for my crank-baits, might make jigs now that I have such a surplus of lead :-D Of course this is after I rest up, my back is aching.. made 2 piles 30 ft long x 10 wide x 10 ft high along the road for city to pick up of pure junk.

I do the same thing as nova, I have pure lead ingots and tire weights and mix 50/50. That works well and you can scrape the slag off the top pretty easy. Melting just the tire weights were giving me alot of "incomplete" pours but after mixing in pure lead the problem has dissappeared.

It will all float to the top; but you do have to work to get it to do that. I use a big spoon to stir the lead and scrape the sides. Then just spoon it off the top. I use tire weights and pure lead; about 50/50 mix.