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Every supply company selling glitter to the bait hobbyists is selling the same glitter from the same 2 manufacturers I've found. Like I've told you in the past if you want to continue to buy that same high temp poly glitter you bought from Baitjunkys just head to LureWorks

There is a lot of done from scratch lures Myself I have never bought and blank ever. I make my own by hand carving a master out of wood and molding it. After that I create a resin/micro balloon recipe that gets the results I wanna. After that I can create as many duplicates as I need There are others here who duplicate their baits by hand carving each one. They keep good records of their measurements and process and repeat it. Others will do a similar process with a lathe you can also resort to building a duplicating machine Homemade baits don’t have to be one offs at all I have no clue about buying blanks so I can’t help with that part of your post here are 2 two duplicates just different paint jobs. Same weight, size, and action

Have you tried to hand pour one or both of the mold sides before you inject the center? I pour a lot of my tubes with a orange "bottom" and then inject the watermelon green. I end up with a body that is orange on the "bottom" and green on the top and legs are green. If you really want to go crazy you can cut the bait in half (lengthwise), put it back in the mold and shoot the top. Since you have to cut your tails it would be easier to do that with the Do-it molds with the spline. I leave the bait in the "bottom" of the mold and then use a razor blade to cut across using the flat mold to be my guide to keep it even. . If I want the tails to also be the 2nd color I cut the "top" tails out of the spline. Make sure the plastic is hot so that it mends with the lower level! Of course you could use a Dual injector and get the same effect (I know have a Dual Injector so that's how I do it now). Basstackle.com even has a triple injector ! You can make up a much of orange baits. Cut the tail and save then, put them back in the mold and then inject the front color. (The Do-it molds you have to leave them on the spline and use a razor blade to cut above the tail and then pull the head off and re-shoot). You can also use a dye and paint it on a paint and it will leach down the sides. It looks kind of cool but eventually it can leach all the way down. So you have to use them quickly. I live in Minnesota so I have all winter to do wild, time consuming baits! I think the best thing to learn is how to hand pour the bottoms on molds and then inject the rest. I makes really nice looking creature baits!

Tape it exactly where you want it, close tightly And hit it with a hammer on both sides. I’ve done it many times for hooks. yes you can use JB WELD to close/repair areas. Done this too and it’s lasted years

McLuvin has a real good point.... Your wall thickness looks really thick although it could just be the angle/photo.... there is a balance between too thin and too thick when it comes to stretch.... The one photo you showed with 3 samples makes it seem like the two upper baits have a reasonably "thin" wall - and didn't tear... and they look great BTW. Seems like your other baits that tore have a pretty decent wall thickness. If the wall thickness is too thick and resists stretching - it will find a weak point (thin, bubble, etc) and just tear... if the walls are thinner it should give all the way around and that head has a better chance of sliding in. I'm sure you can use a "more strechable" plastic - but there is no reason you can't trouble shoot what you have and use what you already bought. You can use almost anything metal for a core... Personally I'd start there with upping the diameter of the core until you find a sweet spot. J.

I know this is an older thread, but if you haven't found anything yet https://worthco.com/ has packaging solutions for lures, but you have to buy bulk. Actually they have lots of components if you are prepared to buy in larger quantities. Good quality stuff too.

I spent the last couple days on the water and I had a chance to fool with my spoons a bit. Casting was not an issue, I didn't notice any tumble effect. But the action was pretty dead and unimpressive. My parallel sides make is like dragging a flat slab through the water, because well.......... I was in fact dragging a flat slab through the water........ Looks like revision two is in order. Or most likely next time I order some other lure making supplies I'll just get a handful of blanks. It was still a fun way to spend some time in the shop when the weather was crappy, but now it's nice out again, so I'm going fishing. When the weather goes to hell again I'll dream up some other foolishness to try or maybe I will take a stab at Kastmaster Revision 2? I am kinda curious what effect varying tapers would have on the action...............

By the way Hookup Baits tubes are more than 1/8" thick. https://www.hookupbaits.com/

How does the inside diameter of your tube compare what your trying to match? Looking at wall thickness of those tubes it seems to be overkill for the application your doing. I suspect that if you started with a larger diameter mandrel you would have more room on the inside of the tube, a thinner wall, and ergo less stress on the plastic when you insert the jig head. Thats my SWAG. (Scinetific Wild @$$ Guess).