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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/05/2020 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Oh that's gonna get eaten , well done sir
  2. 1 point
    I do the same thing, and it works. But I take it a step farther. Once I cut out the profile on my bandsaw, including my lip slot, I smooth it with belt sander, and then draw a centerline all the way around the bait. That lets me get the line tie, the hook hangers, and the ballast centered. Once I've marked those locations with a pencil, and deepened them with an awl, I begin the tapering and shaping process. The awl marks make sure I don't lose the locations, even if I happen to sand off the pencil line. If I'm adding a rattle, I'll mark it's location, and drill a small through hole, so I have a way to line things up later, before I begin tapering and shaping. Once you have begun shaping a few lures, you'll get a feel for keeping it symmetrical just by eye as you shape it. Give yourself some time and don't be too hard on yourself if something doesn't work. We all make mistakes. The key thing is to learn from them, so you don't repeat the same mistakes. Of course, there will still be plenty of room to make new ones! Hahaha
  3. 1 point
    I have only just found this forum, but felt compelled to have my say! I am based in Calgary, Alberta, Canada. Humidity is normally quite low due to the altitude. I used to have exactly the same issues as BrunZ320 until I tried 2 things that worked. I tried more than 5 different epoxies that all blistered and bubbled until I found Crystal Clear Epoxy from www.eastcoastresin.com, which is the easiest I have ever tried. It doesn't seem to matter if it has been handled without gloves or if there any contaminants on the lure surface. However, I find that if, after painting is completed and left to dry overnight, I airbrush a coat or two of Varathane Triple Thick Clear Finish diluted with 20% water (It is an acrylic product), it provides the perfect key for Crystal Clear epoxy. I let the final coating dry for 24 hours before painting on the epoxy. Beautiful high gloss perfect results every time using using a cheap barbecue spit with 2.5 rotations a minute. I got the idea of using this mid-coat from Engineered Angler on YouTube, he is amazing!
  4. 1 point
    What temp are you curing at? Tin melts at 450,I cure at 350 for 20 min.
  5. 1 point
    Perfect. That's really helpful. Thank you! Sounds like I need to use less paint, and for jigs I've already painted, use a paper clip. Thanks for your help!
  6. 1 point
    Every rib is just another opportunity to trap air . Plastic has to be hot to fill all of those little ribs but the hotter the plastic the more it shrinks as it cools so it's kind of a catch 22 . If the air is not displaced as the mold is filling with plastic it will have no way to get out once the mold is full resulting in trapped air pockets (bubbles in the bait ). If possible you could try altering the mold plunger arrangement to pour with the cavities oriented vertically so the (thinner) air is forced upward and out towards the tail vent by the ( denser ) plastic and pushed out ahead of the plastic as the mold fills . The vent at the tip of the tail should also be reoriented pointing strait up from the tip with a loop to change direction . Any air entrapment after that could be dealt with adding more venting where needed . This stuff is all just trial and error but persistence will usually pay off.
  7. 1 point
    I see what you mean. I guess the actual placement of the lines depends on the bait. When I began making mine I've learned about how blunter nosed or wider/narrower bait behave in the water. That along with weighting, the bill, etc determine how the thing moves in the water. I guess you just make some and pay attention and see what happens. General rule for me is blunter in the front, narrower on the tail and enough weight in it so that it stays upright. And center the weight to start. Moving it back or forward affects the center of 'wobble'. Hard to define everything so stay with general rules, see what happens, then modify from there with the next ones. There are some sort of standard methods, but half the fun is making one and working with that. That being said, you'd be surprised how just freehanding it and looking down the axis by eye while cutting/sanding to get symmetry can be done quite easily. Anyway, good luck with it. I don't overthink it. Just do one and go from there.
  8. 1 point
    When curing my jigs in the oven, I used bent out paperclips. One end goes into the hook eye and the other end hangs on the oven rack. This way, if I do get a drip, it runs toward the hook rather than toward the head. I put an old cookie sheet under the jigs so that no paint will drip inside the wife's oven!
  9. 1 point
    Another helpful tip is to use the jig clamps from TJ's tackle. This way any excess paint runs toward the hook shank where it is more easily removed.
  10. 1 point
    You can use any head you want as long as the hook eye will allow the split ring to move freely. I personally like the Trokar Pro Swim jig as well. You can get nice heavy sharp hooks with big hook eyes. However, find what works for you.
  11. 1 point
    Yep too much paint. try a fluid bed as mentioned above, or when your jig is hot quickly swish it thru the powder paint. Better to have less paint than too much. You can always reheat it and swish thru again. Also make sure you fluff the powder paint frequently if you are swishing from a jar. This will put on a lighter coat. Good Luck.
  12. 1 point
    Are you using a fluid bed? If not, it will alleviate those cone heads.
  13. 1 point
    bryanmc, Jig Man, and McLuvin175, thank you all for your replies. they are much appreciated. bryan, I was wondering about that. I wasn't aware of the siphoning affect of the cooling plastic drawing in hot plastic from the gate and runner. Think maybe that long gate is cooling too much and effectively shutting off the chance for the cooling bait to draw in more plastic from the runner? May even be closing any chance of air leaving the body of the bait. I do plan on remaking the mold, so I will shorten the gates when I do that. Just trying to make it work right now because I have a tournament Saturday and I pretty much made this bait to fish this lake. Anyhow .... Jig Man, I have tried your suggestion. Still get the same results. I've even tried keeping pressure on for 30 seconds, and not just slight pressure. McLuvin, I am thinking that I need to try adding a vent as well. As I said in my original post ... these are not plastic shrinkage dents, they are collapsed air bubbles. I do find it odd that on to of the baits it's always near the nose, and with the one bait, it's always in the mid portion of the body. I'm thinking that it being a ring worm type bait that it is catching even more air. I'm going to add a vent at the nose and see if that helps. I'd like to get it figured out before I go making a new mold. Once again, thank you guys VERY much for your replies. Got some ideas to work with now, and that's what I needed. Thanks again!!!
  14. 1 point
    You are getting too much paint on the jigs if you are getting dripping or nipples. Allen
  15. 1 point
    I print them, cut them out and glue them on with a glue stick. This allows me to also show locations, angles, and sizing for lip slot, line tie, and hook hangers.
  16. 1 point
    The Manic Mullet is closer to the Snootie jig than it is the Poison Tail. You can really use any head you want to make a bladed jig, it just depends on the hook you want. I like using the Trokar Pro Swim Jig head and I like the Sparkie head as well but it depends on what the situation I'm using it in.
  17. 1 point
    You need vents. The air displaced by the plastic has no where to go.
  18. 1 point
    How much are you wanting to get? If only needing enough for a dozen cranks or so then Menards, Micheal's, and Hobby Lobby always have bass wood. Have to use 40 and 50% coupons as the last two are expensive typically. Menards is priced cheaper but still high but typically cheaper than buying small amounts with shipping online. If you have local mill should be able to get basswood the cheapest that way. I have ordered from various mills online and had stuff shipped for reasonable. Usually stay with Northern states mills as better quality local wood. In my area air dried basswood runs around $1.50 - 2.00 a bd/ft.
  19. 1 point
    You can freehand the design on a block of wood or draw your design on paper, cut the design out and glue it on. You can find good videos on YouTube and the search feature on this site has tons of great information.
  20. 1 point
    I’d try injecting slowly and keeping pressure on for 10 seconds or so after it fills.
  21. 1 point
    First thought is the nose of the bait is too far from the runner, the gate looks way too long. Might need some vents on the body as well.
  22. 1 point
    Most claim they don't have to lubricate very often, but i've had to do it with every brand of injector i've had when i've felt them starting to tighten slightly. I keep worm oil in a pint bottle that i squirt into bags of lures when i bag them & i just take cap off & pour some in the injector & replace the injector tip & squirt back into bottle that it came out of. I do the same with the dual injector & then stick it into the blending block & then squirt back into bottle. Easy enough to do when needed.
  23. 1 point
    Yep that's for sure. Get a good one to start with.
  24. 1 point
    If it's a basstackle dual injector, you might try loosening the nuts at the top of the tubes a little...
  25. 1 point
    There are places you can cut corners to save money but injectors aren't one of them...
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