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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/07/2020 in all areas

  1. 1 point
  2. I think you want in one shot for your lure to work, let me tell you it just don't work that way. I would have carved out a lure close to want you want and go from there, that way you have a better understanding of how it will work before going to a 3D printer and making a mold. Trial and error will give you a better understanding in the long run of how your lure will work, I guess I am old school that's the way I just do things at 77 you just can't teach old dogs new tricks. Wayne
    1 point
  3. Do yourself a favor and get used to the search feature here, there are tons of comments about that subject, and most recently search "Hunting Action" this is everything you need to know and more, really great reading along with helpful insight. Sorry but it's truly the best advice I can give, it will be a treasure trove of information.
    1 point
  4. Go with whatever turns your crank. The fact of the matter is when you get into the finer details of lure painting its for catching the human eye not fish. In my opinion there is no wrong or right answer to your question. Try different things and see what you like. Worst case you cover it up with a new base coat or clean it up and start over
    1 point
  5. I have only just found this forum, but felt compelled to have my say! I am based in Calgary, Alberta, Canada. Humidity is normally quite low due to the altitude. I used to have exactly the same issues as BrunZ320 until I tried 2 things that worked. I tried more than 5 different epoxies that all blistered and bubbled until I found Crystal Clear Epoxy from www.eastcoastresin.com, which is the easiest I have ever tried. It doesn't seem to matter if it has been handled without gloves or if there any contaminants on the lure surface. However, I find that if, after painting is completed and left to dry overnight, I airbrush a coat or two of Varathane Triple Thick Clear Finish diluted with 20% water (It is an acrylic product), it provides the perfect key for Crystal Clear epoxy. I let the final coating dry for 24 hours before painting on the epoxy. Beautiful high gloss perfect results every time using using a cheap barbecue spit with 2.5 rotations a minute. I got the idea of using this mid-coat from Engineered Angler on YouTube, he is amazing!
    1 point
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