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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/27/2020 in all areas

  1. I usually go with trial and error. I find that to be quicker. I bought some 1/4” diameter solid lead wire sinker coil off amazon which you can cut to any length. I also made some ballast weights for bigger lures by drilling a bunch of holes partially through scrap wood with 3/8” and 1/2" forstner bits. I drill the holes at varying depths. I melt some old saltwater lead sinkers in a big heavy spoon with a propane torch and pour the lead into the holes (do it outside, wear a mask, gloves, etc.). Just don’t use any hole that goes through the wood. When the lead cools, tap the wood upside down and most fall out. If the weights stick you can pry them out with a screwdriver. You can do some light filing to make the weights smooth. You end up with various length cylinder lead weights in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch diameters to use as test ballast weights that will slide right into ballast holes in a lure drilled with those bits. I seal the lure and attach test weights with rubber bands or hot glue which is easy to scrape off. If I am sure of the ballast location but not the weight, I will drill the ballast holes and then seal the lure. I can drop the weights into the ballast holes and cover it with 2 pieces of scotch tape in an ‘X’ or rubber bands. I have a tub of different length weights. I can swap out weights off different lengths for testing. In my notes/lure body templates, I will mark the weight location and size (ex. 3/8 diameter weight that is ½” long). I also weigh the weight before I seal it in the body just to have that info too. Just make easy lob casts or drag the lure through the water down the shore/along a dock. Check to make sure any tape/rubber bands are in position in between casts.
    2 points
  2. Ha! Bet you can guess my answer 1 - Weigh the body. 2 - Archimedes volume test for body volume. 3 - Weigh the hardware. 4 - Simple calculation. 5 - Find COG of body 6 - Build. Dave
    1 point
  3. Pencil surface lures are generally weighted with all of the weight in the back 1/3 of the lure so that the nose sticks out of the water. Because it is such a thin lure, the hooks and split rings act as the ballast instead of weighting below the center line of the lure. The difference is that with the back half of the lure in the water and the front half out, the drag is significantly different from back to front, which is how the walking action is achieved. Over these past weeks I just built a 10 inch glider and was finally able to test it at the local lake. With the weight distributed over the entire belly of the lure, I can still get it to roll if I twitch the bait way too hard. It's because I built this one out of maple which is much more dense than the traditional cedar glides. Maybe try to not jerk the bait so hard, but work it soft and methodical. Each lure, especially when handmade, will have it's quirks. Once you figure them out, you'll be able to get them to dance. Last thought, you can always add a rear stability plane like they have on the Drifter Hell Hounds which will significantly decrease it's ability to roll: - Andy
    1 point
  4. I will give the eraser Idea a try for sure. I like the idea of using something softer vs a handle or toothpick. It still turned out ok in my opinion Oh Wayne those stands worked out good. Cost effective, simple, and I can break them down to store them even
    1 point
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