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I use Rustoleum as well, and like Mark let them dry overnight but I top coat with KBS and have zero issues with adhesion.

What I've done with my gliders, is always find a CoG and then back it up a bit, depending the size of the bait one to two or three millimeters. When you've done a quite few of these, you'll start to get hang of it and kinda "wing it". Coating materials that I constantly use, adds up a bit weight and are heavier than water which means that coating always, and I emphasize, ALWAYS moves CoG towards the nose. On the opposite end, when you use coating with density less than water, it moves CoG towards the back as it adds flotation of the nose more. Why? Well basically no matter what kind of glider you make, bait has more surface to be coated from mid to nose than mid to tail. So after you've done a few, you'll just wing it after initial measurement of CoG and move it millimeter on three towards nose or tail. Another thing I'd say, and this is just my opinion and depends what kind of leaders etc you use... As they usually add nose dive rather than lift the nose up, so if you manage to screw up balancing the lure, it's in my opinion, better to rather nose up than nose dive a bit when gliding. So moving CoG towards the nose just a tad is almost always better than moving towards the back. Trying to get it dead center is usually prominent of tipping nose down. Cheers, Jarmo from O'Baits

You need to heat the plastic to 350 for it to fully convert. When I cook plastic, I take it to 350 and add my colorant. Then I let it cool to 320 - 330 before I add glitter and pour. Subsequent reheats don't need to go over 320 or whenever the plastic just gets pourable again.

Hm, mine does it on delivery. Though as stated, it's much worse with the glo powder. On a brighter note, I got my silica packets, dropped one into each powder and waited a half hour before pouring. A marked difference in the orange I used. Went from mostly powder with some clumps to all powder, mixed easily. So problem solved.

I know about 5 people that make spincast molds and they are all too busy with their own stuff. Maybe in a couple of months I can help you out but I just got my setup so I am learning how to make the molds. Making a mold is easy but getting them to work correctly is a pain. Have you tried Cast Industries or Tight Line Angler? Allen

I tried the veggie oil route, learned my lesson, canola oil works though, and a little goes a loooooooong way.

I think this is a preference thing, but I used a ton of medium (.035) glitter.

thanks Rick this is very good information. I do have something to pass on for those using Plaster of Paris. On my last pour I used refrigerated water and it added to the working time greatly

I use Rustoleum white paint/primer as well, two coats, twenty minutes apart, and cured overnight. I've never had it bubble. Maybe you still have some solvent from the primer trapped before you paint. I do hit it with my hair dryer as soon as it's lost its wet look, and then again just before I paint it with Createx, to be sure all the solvent is gone.

Most vegetable oils will make your baits harden up like pencils.