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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/13/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    It will be like that till it gets used a bit. Loosen the top knobs a little and also the top of the injector tubes. This will help it break in and loosen up. After awhile it will be just fine. Try and not tighten those part to much they don’t need it and will ensure a long life of your injectors.
  2. 1 point
    +1 on both above.... make sure while your breaking it in (actually all the time) you should shoot some oil, wd-40, pam, etc. in the barrel to keep it sliding nice and smooth.... and as mentioned the rod and back cap usually need to wear in a bit - oil helps it slide easy at first - but a little wear in that area over time will "fix" the issue.... you could just cycle the injector a whole lot (no plastisol) to help break it in some. If it's sliding nice and smooth when oiled / empty it should be smooth during use - if it's still choppy - you probably have plastisol build up between the plunger and the back cap which can clog airflow and make it harder to use. Take it apart - lube it and it should work fine. J.
  3. 1 point
    I use western red cedar mostly. I will use white cedar if I can get it as well. I have a friend that operates a sawmill, and he saves me cutoffs of western red cedar that have no knots and relatively straight grain. If I need really consistent straight clear pieces, I will go and actually buy a 2x8 of clear straight grain cedar from Windsor plywood. I don't like doing that because it gets pretty pricey per foot.
  4. 1 point
    This thread has diverged from Chris’s purchase but thought this may be a decent place to share this. Somebody spent some time to do it and anybody that uses wheel weights should review it. Chris is spot on about the sorting. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?139839-Guide-to-Hand-Sorting-Wheel-Weights
  5. 1 point
    also oil the rod that the handles are on .
  6. 1 point
    Then try it if you say it is impossible. Get a chartreuse DYE and brown or purple. Mix it 50/50 and put it in plastic and heat it. Then you will believe it is not magic. They don’t have anything we don’t when they make it. Or can’t get.
  7. 1 point
    There are lead, zinc, steel, and plastic wheel weights out there. When you get them you simply sort out the lead ones and use them. It's not that hard to tell them apart If you did melt some zinc ones it will not ruin your pot. It will contaminate and can ruin the batch of lead in the pot, but, not the pot itself.
  8. 1 point
    Looks great Mark. I look forward to seeing you out on the Delta so I can see how it swims. Barry
  9. 1 point
    Have you spoken with Lureworks/Spikeit? In bulk they may give you some bulk pricing.
  10. 1 point
    They look great Mark. Lokk like real fish catchers. You do good work.
  11. 1 point
    Look up worlds worst fishing on YouTube he’s done several vids on this exact thing. Nate.
  12. 1 point
    That would seem to make adding some kind of a scent a good idea.
  13. 1 point
    Actually doing both achieves the same thing, yes pouring scent into the plastic before pouring the bait does work but you lose some scent due to the heating process, but also using a good plastisizer mixed with the scent as said above will achieve exactly the same thing. The plastisizer is absorbed into the bait all the way to the core of the bait, but of course you lose some scent due to mixing it with plastisizer. Either process you use will hold scent as long as the other but using the cold method, you do have to allow time for the plastisizer to absorb into the bait. Once it is absorbed into the bait, it will not wash off and you are achieving the same thing as if you are adding scent to the hot plastic. It really dosen't matter which process you choose to get the scent into the plastic, as long as the scent is there. It is just a matter of personal preference. I have added scented plastisizer to a bag of baits and the baits actually were dry after 2 or 3 days because they absorbed the plastisizer.
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