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I got some of the lurecraft micro bubbles which are actually small hollow glass kinda like what is being talked about here. I'll work with it and post my results. I'll head all the warnings around respirators, fans turned down, add more dye due to glass causing lighter colors, etc.. stay tuned. my goal is to make baits similar to the z-man elaztec w/o all their negative properties and lack of fluid action u get from plastisol. we will see.

MF sells a floating additive. Never used the stuff but some have said it is light and fluffy and is dangerous to inhale. Will suspend easily in air when disturbed. The system three you linked looks interesting. May even be the same type product. The shipping is expensive from your link but Amazon has it with prime shipping.

My 30 year old stirring sticks are teflon. You can leave them in the pyrex while heating in the microwave.

Nice finish. It's annoying when you can't recreate a happy accident. Like RPM said, probably not enough pigment. Could there had been something in your gun after rinsing out the green that hit the lure first when you sprayed the black? Is it possible the green paint wasn't not fully set? I have accidentally got some crackle finishes and splotchy finishes when the underneath paint was not fully dry when I thought it was. I put on the top paint evenly. The underneath paint still has a bit moisture causing the top to pool to random spots. Sometimes the top paint semi-dries first. Then, the underneath paint finishes drying and pulls the top paint to a crackle appearance.

Mark you hit the nail on the head, I've done this before many times, especially when shooting the paint mixture with to much thinner, there is not enough pigment in the paint to cover thus leading to your results posted, the to thin mixture seems to pool and create this effect, I think it's on the verge of running but since it's on the top of the lure it has no where to run. Sorry I wish I had a better way to describe it, but it does make for a pretty cool effect. I've often thought I ruined the bait and wanted to wipe it off but went ahead and put the heat gun to it, sometimes the heat gun will make it seperate more, giving it a pourus, texted effect. Please see example, sorry it's not the best because I tried to cover it with pearl mixed into the clear coat, but you should be able to see it well enough. I should add, it happens to me mostly when I use Createx Candy Transparent Black, very rarely will it happen when using an opaque paint. Thanks Rich

Dick night wouldn't ship to me here in Alaska so I couldn't try it out. They are not likely to ship to Canada either. I use D2T epoxy or Alumi UV from alumilite to seal eyes on my saltwater jigs. I built a light box with a 1,000 watt blacklight to cure the Alumi UV. The Alumi UV was spendy with the shipping added in but they did ship to me. Overall I'm happy with both products. D2T works well to coat entire jigs. Not sure how either would work on a production scale. KBS diamond clear seems like a good product but I haven't tried it I think shipping may be an issue with it as well.

Perhaps the question should be can you control the temperature of the hot plate? I offer the following link regarding the breakdown of silicone and temperature. https://silicone.co.uk/news/temperatures-can-silicone-rubber-withstand/ From that web site: "For example, if heated up to 150°C you would see very little change in the silicone, even if held at this temperature for a very long time, At 200°C the silicone will slowly become harder and less stretchy with time, and if the silicone was heated up to a temperature beyond 300°C, you would quickly see the material become harder and less stretchy in a very short time, due to such extreme temperature conditions but it would not melt." Now, not every silicone can handle 150 deg. C (302 deg. F) for a long time. But, the Alumilite HS2 can withstand up to 395 deg. F for some time. I seldom go that hot, and I always treat my molds with liquid silicone oil after it and let it set (makes it last longer). In my opinion, a hot plate that was holding a temperature of say 175 degrees F, it would be well below degradation point but would preheat it well before use.

As a youngster, less then 12, I use to make a version of the super duper out of copper sheets. I polished the sheets and treated it with a clear coat (don't remember which but later in life clear fingernail polish) and I swear they caught more fish than the original. The Jakes has a different shape, but is well within the ability of most lure makers. If I could find the copper sheets again with the correct thickness, I would make them right now. So, is it worth it, for me it would be.

Thank you for your answer. I'm looking for problems in many ways now. I think there is an additive that can solve this problem.

PTFE, otherwise known as teflon, has various formulations. Plastisol will not stick to it, but some forms, like teflon tape, can melt with hot platisol. Some teflon has a super high melting point and would be fine. Sorry, not sure if this helps.

https://www.clearbags.com/spec/fishing-industry-packaging/worm-bags

Main ingredient in WD40 is fish oil... Use it on marshmallows to catch trout...... Any reason regular fish oil won't work as a scent on soft plastics???

Evidently it is illegal to use WD40 as an attractant here in Calif. I know catfish guys here who swear by it.