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I build baits from scratch and I was also a Glazier, never have had a bill fall out! as a matter of fact I have broken baits trying to remove the bill that I installed. Vodkaman is right about scuffing the slot!! I personally use a 1/16 drill bit. 1. Prep bills by drilling approx 1/2 of thickness or a little less on both sides and stagger divots from opposite side. 2. Spread whatever adhesive you use on the bill making sure it is in the divots you drilled, doesn't take much. 3. Attach bill to lure and let dry for 24 hours. 4. Try to remove bill without breaking lure or the bill.

In my opinion, aluminum molds are clearly better than stone, that really is a pretty obvious given. But, he did not really put forth any effort to make the stone mold work. No oil at first, then way too much oil. He kind of did it in a way that made poor results a guarantee. The only time I have had that much difficult with opening a stone mold was a new 8 cavity ring type one that I did not spray first. I treated all my stone molds with. KBS diamond coat and have not needed to oil a mold since and all the baits turn out nice and shiny.

I have one stone mold from the Ukraine, a 6" Keitech-like swimbait. I sprayed it with PAM before I used it, like I do with my aluminum molds, and again after each pour, and it poured well, and opened up easily. The baits came out without damage, and the tails filled. The tail stem is thin, so I needed to use a stiffer plastic than just plain medium, but it works just fine.

for got to mention it is cheaper if you buy the 100 lot size.

I have used these with good results. https://www.ebay.com/itm/25-Pack-Spinner-Lure-Bodies-Tackle-Making-or-Slip-Sinker/120549415572?hash=item1c114e1a94:g:B7oAAMXQU6tQ~eOf

Anglinarcher - AndyUK may well be a beginner when it comes to lure building, but he is certainly not new to engineering, and fully understands what I am talking about, otherwise I would not have embarked on this tedious and time consuming project. The idea is that I take care of the complexities of the many calculations, leaving the builder with a few measurements to make and a couple of numbers to play with. My 2DP scale is repeatable, and that is the most important factor, and yes, I have a certified 500g mass. I also have a250ml class-A HERMA graduated measuring cylinder, and with 1cc being less than 1mm I will be calling BS on your claim of 1/10cc. I stick by my claim that the best you can hope for is an accuracy of 1cc and add to that a tolerance of =/+ 0.5cc. Yes, the larger the sample the better the accuracy, we should always use the largest sample possible. The reason I went down to 2DP for my gram scale was that when I was experimenting with neutral buoyancy several years ago, I found that 1DP was right on the edge for a 1DP scale. We are looking for an accuracy of 1/200th of the volume of the lure to even getting close to the accuracy required, and as you know, there are tolerances with each measurement made; resin, filler, internal hardware, external hardware, ballast. If you are lucky then the tolerances will balance each other out, but that does not always happen. And then, you have top coats to deal with. For larger lures, even a 500g scale is useless for doing water displacement measurements. I am sure you will enjoy playing with the spreadsheet, and I will send you a copy once the beta testing is done. Dave

Dave, I still think you are overthinking this for a beginners level. Most 2DP scales need to be calibrated for each use as well so make sure you have a certified mass. I do use a graduated tube for volume that I obtained from a Laboratory supply house. The good ones will measure well below 1/10 cc and now that the can of worms has been opened, the larger the samples you use the smaller the errors. Large volumes, or large masses make small errors less meaningful. In other words, when testing, make sure you are using larger amounts. How large you ask? Well I was once told to test 5 structural bolts to confirm the lot was sufficiently strong, but the bolts were custom made and only two bolts were made for that application. Obviously I could not test 5 bolts because I only had 2, and testing 2 left nothing for the application. In short, use your best common sense. Now, for my level of experience, and with my equipment, I would actually like your spread sheet for my own use.

Maybe you could figure out the minimum order that you can ship and still make money, and have that as a minimum order for free shipping. I've seen that on other sites.