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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/03/2020 in all areas

  1. McLuvin is right. I get that on a lizard mold I have as well. You can try a couple things: Without messing with mold - try different temps - maybe a little hotter shot might let that air push out before closing up. Try different filling speeds.... maybe a slower push on plunger will allow air to evacuate easier before shutting off. I'd also try faster cause sometimes logic doesn't work in physics. LOL! If you just can't get those bubbles out with temp/speed/etc. you might need to mess with the mold. If I were to do it - I'd probably open the vents at the legs to pu
    2 points
  2. The testing of the ‘Lure Resin and Filler Calculator’ is completed. I am VERY grateful for the time, materials and effort that member ‘AndyUK’ put in on this project. Anyone who would like to test out the spreadsheet tool, simply PM me with your email address. Dave
    2 points
  3. It's been a pleasure working on this project with you Dave, can't thank you enough for your time, knowledge & hard work. I hope many others benefit from your spreadsheet. Cheers buddy, Andy.
    1 point
  4. thx guys temperature changes did not help. I was also advised to change the rubber, so I tried Medium and the result is almost perfect. I think if I get even more air from the baits, the result will be perfect The question is how the harder bait will then flutter in the water ... maybe I'll have to add a softener
    1 point
  5. So I've been on this site all of two minutes and already found a great idea. I'm a new lure maker. Taking delivery of lathe and handsaw tomorrow....
    1 point
  6. If you are just looking to take the shine off of the shiny lead jigheads to fish them and make them look more natural you can paint them with a permanent marker such as a black or brown sharpie . The paint job will rub off over time from rocks but if you bring the pen along you can touch up the bare spots . Not as good looking as paint but works surprising well in a pinch .
    1 point
  7. Try holding pressure on your injector, for maybe 10 seconds, before removing it. Sometimes that helps. Also, add more plastic after removing the injector, so it doesn't suck in any air. Hope this helps.
    1 point
  8. In my opinion, either will work. If you go powder paint and want the durability, you have to bake the jigs. If you're pressed for time, just paint them with fingernail polish. I think the powder paint if done properly will last longer. JMO. BTW welcome to Tackle Underground
    1 point
  9. Hello Big Epp, in my case, given that I use Balsa wood, i rather to use a passthrough wire. In this way all tension and forces are absorb by the stainless steel wire instead the wood. The wood gives bouyancy and shape. Believe me that you will have excellent captures. It is incredible. Next time in the highlands creeks I will take my camera to record some captures and releases.
    1 point
  10. My grandpa used to say If your worried about how to stop it Don't ever start it.
    1 point
  11. Fishorfie - I will not release the file until it has been fully tested. Dave
    1 point
  12. @Vodkaman Would you send me a link to or possibly email me the spreadsheet? Great work man!
    1 point
  13. Anglinarcher - AndyUK may well be a beginner when it comes to lure building, but he is certainly not new to engineering, and fully understands what I am talking about, otherwise I would not have embarked on this tedious and time consuming project. The idea is that I take care of the complexities of the many calculations, leaving the builder with a few measurements to make and a couple of numbers to play with. My 2DP scale is repeatable, and that is the most important factor, and yes, I have a certified 500g mass. I also have a250ml class-A HERMA graduated measuring cylinder, and with 1c
    1 point
  14. Dave, I still think you are overthinking this for a beginners level. Most 2DP scales need to be calibrated for each use as well so make sure you have a certified mass. I do use a graduated tube for volume that I obtained from a Laboratory supply house. The good ones will measure well below 1/10 cc and now that the can of worms has been opened, the larger the samples you use the smaller the errors. Large volumes, or large masses make small errors less meaningful. In other words, when testing, make sure you are using larger amounts. How large you ask? Well I was once told to test
    1 point
  15. You certainly are not making a fool of yourself. Always remember, there are no dumb questions. You may feel like you have failed with this project so far, but what you don’t realize is that you have amassed a lot of experience AND an enormous amount of physical data that can be put to good use. As long as you haven’t thrown away the castings that you have made so far, together we can calculate what is required regarding the glass beads, to make your lure work for the next attempt. The only tool that you require to fix all your problems is a gram scale. If you have a gram scale, then
    1 point
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