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McLuvin is right. I get that on a lizard mold I have as well. You can try a couple things: Without messing with mold - try different temps - maybe a little hotter shot might let that air push out before closing up. Try different filling speeds.... maybe a slower push on plunger will allow air to evacuate easier before shutting off. I'd also try faster cause sometimes logic doesn't work in physics. LOL! If you just can't get those bubbles out with temp/speed/etc. you might need to mess with the mold. If I were to do it - I'd probably open the vents at the legs to push that air out a little easier. Maybe even score a few in between each leg at top of each rib . Sometimes bodies with ribs work great - sometimes they are just a PITA. You can probably use a utility knife to score the mold - you don't need a big cut to let air out... score with knife then wet sand a little bit with 400-600 sand paper to remove burr. If that didn't do it... I'd also think about filing a slight round on the edge where the bubble stops - which looks like right at the edge of the legs... might help that air "roll" around into the leg and out the vent.... I think you can probably get most of it out with process (heat/pressure/speed)... but some molds are just annoying. J.

The testing of the ‘Lure Resin and Filler Calculator’ is completed. I am VERY grateful for the time, materials and effort that member ‘AndyUK’ put in on this project. Anyone who would like to test out the spreadsheet tool, simply PM me with your email address. Dave

It's been a pleasure working on this project with you Dave, can't thank you enough for your time, knowledge & hard work. I hope many others benefit from your spreadsheet. Cheers buddy, Andy.

thx guys temperature changes did not help. I was also advised to change the rubber, so I tried Medium and the result is almost perfect. I think if I get even more air from the baits, the result will be perfect The question is how the harder bait will then flutter in the water ... maybe I'll have to add a softener

So I've been on this site all of two minutes and already found a great idea. I'm a new lure maker. Taking delivery of lathe and handsaw tomorrow....

If you are just looking to take the shine off of the shiny lead jigheads to fish them and make them look more natural you can paint them with a permanent marker such as a black or brown sharpie . The paint job will rub off over time from rocks but if you bring the pen along you can touch up the bare spots . Not as good looking as paint but works surprising well in a pinch .

Try holding pressure on your injector, for maybe 10 seconds, before removing it. Sometimes that helps. Also, add more plastic after removing the injector, so it doesn't suck in any air. Hope this helps.

In my opinion, either will work. If you go powder paint and want the durability, you have to bake the jigs. If you're pressed for time, just paint them with fingernail polish. I think the powder paint if done properly will last longer. JMO. BTW welcome to Tackle Underground

Hello Big Epp, in my case, given that I use Balsa wood, i rather to use a passthrough wire. In this way all tension and forces are absorb by the stainless steel wire instead the wood. The wood gives bouyancy and shape. Believe me that you will have excellent captures. It is incredible. Next time in the highlands creeks I will take my camera to record some captures and releases.

My grandpa used to say If your worried about how to stop it Don't ever start it.

Fishorfie - I will not release the file until it has been fully tested. Dave

@Vodkaman Would you send me a link to or possibly email me the spreadsheet? Great work man!

Anglinarcher - AndyUK may well be a beginner when it comes to lure building, but he is certainly not new to engineering, and fully understands what I am talking about, otherwise I would not have embarked on this tedious and time consuming project. The idea is that I take care of the complexities of the many calculations, leaving the builder with a few measurements to make and a couple of numbers to play with. My 2DP scale is repeatable, and that is the most important factor, and yes, I have a certified 500g mass. I also have a250ml class-A HERMA graduated measuring cylinder, and with 1cc being less than 1mm I will be calling BS on your claim of 1/10cc. I stick by my claim that the best you can hope for is an accuracy of 1cc and add to that a tolerance of =/+ 0.5cc. Yes, the larger the sample the better the accuracy, we should always use the largest sample possible. The reason I went down to 2DP for my gram scale was that when I was experimenting with neutral buoyancy several years ago, I found that 1DP was right on the edge for a 1DP scale. We are looking for an accuracy of 1/200th of the volume of the lure to even getting close to the accuracy required, and as you know, there are tolerances with each measurement made; resin, filler, internal hardware, external hardware, ballast. If you are lucky then the tolerances will balance each other out, but that does not always happen. And then, you have top coats to deal with. For larger lures, even a 500g scale is useless for doing water displacement measurements. I am sure you will enjoy playing with the spreadsheet, and I will send you a copy once the beta testing is done. Dave

Dave, I still think you are overthinking this for a beginners level. Most 2DP scales need to be calibrated for each use as well so make sure you have a certified mass. I do use a graduated tube for volume that I obtained from a Laboratory supply house. The good ones will measure well below 1/10 cc and now that the can of worms has been opened, the larger the samples you use the smaller the errors. Large volumes, or large masses make small errors less meaningful. In other words, when testing, make sure you are using larger amounts. How large you ask? Well I was once told to test 5 structural bolts to confirm the lot was sufficiently strong, but the bolts were custom made and only two bolts were made for that application. Obviously I could not test 5 bolts because I only had 2, and testing 2 left nothing for the application. In short, use your best common sense. Now, for my level of experience, and with my equipment, I would actually like your spread sheet for my own use.

You certainly are not making a fool of yourself. Always remember, there are no dumb questions. You may feel like you have failed with this project so far, but what you don’t realize is that you have amassed a lot of experience AND an enormous amount of physical data that can be put to good use. As long as you haven’t thrown away the castings that you have made so far, together we can calculate what is required regarding the glass beads, to make your lure work for the next attempt. The only tool that you require to fix all your problems is a gram scale. If you have a gram scale, then we can either do this by PM or do it here on this thread, it is up to you. It may well be that you need to go for a lighter resin, but regardless, the engineering techniques that I can talk you through are the same. I promise nothing more difficult than add, subtract, multiply and divide, and writing information down for future use. Dave