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I understand experimenting to pass the time, seek better understanding of materials and procedures, or whatever. But I agree with Anglinarcher. It probably won’t result in a better bait than simply using one body material. Experience taught me that keeping things simple while building a bait results in fewer problems, less variability, and baits that work and catch fish.better. Just my opinion.

Many thanks for the reply's guy's, So true Dave, Marlings quirky personality makes him very easy to watch but I think he's much smarter than he lets on. Cheers for all the feedback and I guess its just time at the workbench that matters now. I should have a couple progress shot's before long.

Thanks @Anglinarcher! I'll give it a try and see what happens!

Oomoo mold max 60 which can be bought a lot of places even Amazon. Allen

I was thinking that was who you were talking about. Allen

Loved the video. Good personality, very entertaining with great skills. And, he followed up with water time. knowledge was shown in the conclusions regarding the weight distribution hampering the crank action, this all made perfect sense. Personally I cannot work like this; hacking two pieces of wood together not knowing if they will float or sink. I would have to do numbers first, but that is just me. Your plan is good, including some ballast adjusting options. I am sure you will have success. Dave

I have used the Alumilite silicone and their dust and it worked just fine.

I think the question was on combining multiple density woods, but lets expand that a little. I use multiple density foams and synthetics on my lures often, and it works. Like Mark suggest, it is often not worth the effort and increases the time (cost) of the lure in many cases. For the most part, the laws of physics do not care how centers of balance or moments of inertia are created, they can be done in multiple ways. I personally do not see an advantage in what you are doing for my work, but then again, new methods may create new ideas, and that in itself is worth the effort.

Lead is about 10 x greater than gidgee. Essentially you are just adding more visual interest on a natural bait. Weight as normal and plug for visual appeal. The plug is going to add some weight but easy enough to do the calculations and adjust as needed. Now many years ago 15 or more some on the site were building cranks from laminating two different density woods. So in your case you could laminate the cedar or beech upper to bottom gidgee.

https://barlowstackle.com/Owner-5319-Jig-Hook-P442/

Model FST 6-A (3/16th-1/2 oz.) 90 degree jig hook style. I'm looking to use a heavier hook than the recommended Mustad 32746's, Owner 5318's, or Gama 114's. Basically I want to use these in saltwater and need to go with a beefier hook. The Gama 604s do fit and cast well, but want to know if there are other options anyone has used. The mold requires a jig with a bit longer eye stem (think Mustad 32746s), so I am just eeking these out with the shorter eye stem from the Gama 604s. The Eagle Claw 635s are tinned and appear to have a bit longer eye stem, but I have not used them before nor do I have them in my possession. The Mustad 32833s look like they might be a good choice as well. At the end of the day, I don't need Gama hooks, and frankly would prefer to find a more cost friendly option. They don't need to be tinned either. Any advice, discussion or direction would be appreciated. I can always mod, but no point in modding if there are options out there Cuda

https://barlowstackle.com/VMC-7152-BN-Barbarian-Jig-Hook-2X-Strong-P3978/

https://barlowstackle.com/Mustad-Jig-Hooks-Style-32833NP-BN-P394/

https://barlowstackle.com/Gamakatsu-Steelhead-Jig-Hooks-Style-2554-P408/

Try this and forget about all of that stuff...

A 5oz bird cannot carry a 1lb coconut!