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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/25/2020 in all areas

  1. Have you tried nail art foil? It is used in hair and nail salons to adorn women's fingernails. It is an ultra thin layer of shiny material applied to the thin plastic backing. After being glued, the plastic film is removed. The material I use is 4 cm wide and comes in 120 meter long rolls. Many colors are available: silver (shinier than aluminum), holographic silver, and holographic clear are most useful. Gold is also useful for a few patterns. The cost is much more reasonable than you might think. You can use m77 to apply it. However, I prefer to use thin epoxy like E tex or Devcon 2T thinned with a little denatured alcohol added to either of them. The key is to apply the right amount of epoxy; You should be able to feel the scale texture as you remove the excess with your finger. Use 4 layers of 1/4" craft foam (Michael's) on each side of the lure. Add a board to the top, and compress gradually with C- clamps. When the left over epoxy is cured, release the clamps and remove the plastic. I did a tutorial on this site earlier using heat transfer foil. Look it up. Many of the finer points still apply. This updates that process a little. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/34741-using-heat-transfer-foil-to-chrome-no-machine/
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  2. Nice price but you have to be careful how fast you spin your paddles. Too fast and you will incorporate bunches of bubbles or throw your plastic right out of the pot.
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  4. I've tried the adhesive backs stuff.... like hvac tape and such - WAY thicker than the stuff I'm using. For something large or a flat side crank the HVAC stuff is not bad - but no where near as "flexible" for the really contoured stuff. I use a light spray of Super 77 - then press this thin foil down, working it with my fingers to get it as flat as I can over half the bait.... I then use popsicle sticks I've sanded/shaped to press and burnish it down into the details and rub flat the wrinkles as best I can. In some instances this stuff will rip if your a little too physical with it.... but if you look in the pics - on one of the tops I've added a few tiny piece to cover the rips and pressed it down - you can barely see it - I'm hoping with a shot of clear coat it will all be smooth before I start painting over it. I will admit - it dos seem to lose it's "shine" as it's worked.... but still has more reflection/bling than any paint I've used. I believe the thinner the material the better... I'll look into the candy foil - cost isn't an issue - more just finding the right stuff. J
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  5. , Bill, i know you never noticed, but this is a 12 year old thread that you've replied to.
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