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@exx1976 Do you mind sending me a DM about what it was you found out?

Try posting this in the Wire Baits forum. You'll probably get better ideas there. For lead ingots Ebay.

Hmmm I'm kinda curious myself, as I've only heard good things about the epoxy. I don't want to invest in some if it doesn't live up to the claims.

I have two HP-CS brushes, and have not had the problem you describe. To be clear, you're saying the trigging is sticking down - not back - so it continues to deliver air (and not paint) after you remove your finger, correct? I would think a drop of airbrush lubricant should address that problem. Both my brushes included a small tube of it in the box when I received them. I'm certainly no airbrush expert, but I have taken mine apart several times. Since the needle goes through the trigger, I would check to ensure the needle isn't bent (accidentally from cleaning?), and that the trigger

I added the WDB100 double keeper to theManic Mullet mold... Nothing will come off. LOL.. It's an easy modification.

Update on learning curve. Cut the stainless rods a bit short so as not to interfere with the injection port. Made one a bit longer to see if that actually would happen. It doesn't. Actually makes a better bait. Will order more stainless rods, and cut them longer. also on my learning curve. Removing the stainless rods is a *%^$ if you forget to lube them. Note to self Remember to lube the rods.

Reading my last years Do-It catalog, they show a " Crystal Clear" hardener. Gonna drop them a line and see if theirs is truly crystal clear, or if that's just their brand name.

The Owner ST35 come in size 6 up to 2/0 at TW which fit a good range of baits. The ST35 in 2/0 are bit bit bigger than other 2/0 hooks I have. The 2/0 is really somewhere between a 2/0 and 3/0. I think the Decoy T-S21 come in sizes 8 to 1/0 but they can be hard to find. They used to make up to 3/0 but I haven't seen any 2/0 or 3/0 in a while. I knew someone who used to travel to Japan who was able to get them for me. Mustad short shank KVDs EWG come in sizes up to 3/0. The Mustad 3X Triple grip go up to 7/0. Proberos 35647 trebles come in 8 to 3/0 (and maybe larger sizes) but y

Hook points will wear through D2T eventually. D2T is one of the hardest and thickest topcoats out there. The only real solution I have found is to minimize the hook points scraping against the the lure. I will sometimes use nail polish or thinned epoxy to fill in a hook rash groove. That only extends the longevity some. Best to do that before it gets through to the paint. I have been switching over to T-type trebles (Owner St-35, Decoy T trebles) for belly mounted hooks. Those type of hooks reduce hook rash. When you put the hook on, make sure the flat side is against the lure. You can be

I like double pin joints, this gives maximum freedom to the hinge as one joint has two pivots. Strength-wise, the load is distributed along the length of the pin, perpendicular to the pull direction, you would have to rip the lure in half to break it. There are so many joint solutions and I cannot say that any are particularly bad. Whether a joint will fail or not all comes down to your design; screw-eyes too short, area around pin to thin, inadequate sealing, etc. Hinges are all about free movement, even the slightest resistance to movement will cancel out the action. Rear facing V-

I have expanded the utility to include inches. I have added two columns to show the distance to nearest eye from ferrule. Dave

I have written a spreadsheet for calculating eye positions for rod builders, for use on laptops or desktop computers (NOT tablets). I have offered something similar in the past but this is an updated and much improved version. If you buy quality blanks then this data is provided by the manufacturer. This utility is not intended to replace manufacturer data. Ideas and suggestions will be accepted. You adjust the ‘tip to first eye’ distance and the ‘reel to butt eye’ distance to get a layout that works around the ferrule position(s). Press the ‘ROD’ button for a graphical re

I make my own very cheap solid fiberglass 65” rods. The competition ponds here have overhead shelters to protect from the rain, hence 65”. I had too many failures with commercial hollow rods. The local tackle shop sells all the standard parts. Because I am using a solid glass rod blank, there is always a large gap to fill. I do this with string neatly wound on, in ¾” sections an inch apart. Once I have a very easy slide fit, I soak the string sections with runny CA glue. I slap on a generous coat of 5 min epoxy and slide the handle blank into place. If your gap is small then yes, tape i

Huge thanks to Musky Glenn...... I appreciate the the tip. They had what I needed and an oldie but goodie reel is back in action!!

Dadsoletackle seems to have the parts, at least they list the handle for $16.99.

I have had good luck with spray can lacquer in clear gloss. Dries quick and is durable. Couple of coats should do. Don't spray when humidity is high.