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I started lure building because I bought high priced balsa baits only to have them fail after only a few hours of fishing. But I never had a bass break one. They all failed because of water infiltration, which I think is the primary failure point of all wooden crankbaits. So when I build, I pay most attention to making a tough waterproof finish. If they can’t break the finish, they can’t do more harm and thru-wiring is irrelevant.

it was a good watch though, you don't see too many videos like that explaining the weight points etc, I thought it may help some with getting closer to a decent action if starting out, I'm yet to build a diver, but will be shortly! Andy.

Not you UKandy who ever made the video did a lot of work. Wayne

For small quantities, I have not doubt it would be expensive. The cost of the gold would be not that bad because the thickness of the layer would be sooooo thin. The durability would be very very very very poor. Personally, I would not pay for it. Gold plated blades have a clear coat that protects them, but wire would be impossible at all contact points.

Carbite - Message sent. You must consider the flowing water when thinking about multiple inputs. The body of water moves as one. All the disturbances, lip, body, spinner etc. the water has to interact with as one flow. It is a difficult concept to explain, you need to have a good think about it all. Dave

Doug Hannon - The Bass Professor's - The Snake - Burke Lures

I've used silicone oil to thin two-part RTV silicone and it works but the cured silicone is softer. I think the oil just acts as a plasticizer to make the cured product softer/more flexible. You can reduce your mold making costs by chopping up old/reject silicone molds and using them to fill space around the cavity. I just make sure and pour new silicone around the master to get a smooth surface. To chop up old molds I use a food processor. Cut old mold into about 1-inch chunks and add enough silicone oil (just enough to coat surfaces) to keep chunks from sticking together while being chopped up. Mix up the 2-part RTV before adding chopped silicone.

I don't mean to stir this boiling pot, but I am old enough and fish enough that I have had several lures break in my day. Funny, they were normally the older two piece cheep molded lures or the through wire balsa lures. I have had the OLD wooden lures that had the poor seal coats have screws rust out, and I have had a few Lucky Craft Live Pointers where the "through wire" on the multiple joints broke. But....... Guys, they are lures, not bridges. If a few break, people don't die.

This picture has "bugs" in various stages of completion with a utility knife for scale. I use through wire in these because I make a lot of them out of willow branches and the pith in the center of the branch isn't a very secure place to glue anything. Also, these are around 1/2" thick, allowing very little space to glue stuff in. With the size of these guys I'm nervous to hook into a decent bass and bust the lure. I suppose catching a decent bass on one of these would be about like catching a muskie on a normal muskie sized bait, so I see the point of through wire for those toothy studs. I wonder though, typical muskie baits have a lot of space for gluing or epoxying in thicker, longer twist eyes. I completely understand the argument for through wires. My guess is I'll make some both ways, then someday I'll lose a huge muskie because it busted out a twist eye. From that point on I'll only use through wire, curse twist eyes, and troll anyone who uses them

I build bass lures but my buddy trolls for stripers and I build balsa trolling cranks for him. Same construction methods as my bass cranks. Pound for pound, stripers fight twice as hard as largemouth. No failures yet over 15 years of striper fishing. Just like all you guys, my opinion about thru-wiring is informed by my fishing experience. That’s mine. Yours may vary.

I exclusively build bass lures and if a bass ever breaks one of my non-thru-wired balsa baits I will gratefully and cheerfully salute the beast as he swims off with half my lure in its mouth. Hundreds of crankbaits, hundreds of bass, I’m still waiting. I don’t think thru-wiring offers added strength to a lure compared to well designed and installed hardwire. But build crankbaits however you think is best for the species you target.

here are some videos, not the best but you get the idea. https://youtu.be/KPsVzycUTf0 https://youtu.be/YY0KLwPxOkY https://youtu.be/XjENNdaTFR4

Thanks I am stupid I have a V block just laying in my shop plus the tilt on my drill press should solve my problems. Thanks for giving me a good slap on the head. Wayne