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https://cart.saltwaterplugs.com/tail-weights.html Maybe you could use these tail weights with the cup washer. You could trim the weights to fit your lures. Maybe you can find a tail weight mold or someone who has one? I don't know if anyone on here has the mold that could make you some. I could not find the mold for sale anywhere. Maybe you could use a bullet nose or worm nose type mold instead with a piece of shaft wire to preserve the shaft hole. https://barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Bullet-Nose-Jig-Molds-P228/ https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Worm-Nose-Sinker-WNS-6-A The tail weight mold looks like this:

Hagensfish, Worth, Lakeland all should have them in bulk. Allen

Maybe check out the different brass spinner bodies. You might find something the right shape

A friend gave me a gallon of MF bounce that had been sitting a few years. It was hard-packed probably 1/2" deep on the bottom. I poured off about half of the liquid, then cut the off the top of the jug where it starts to neck down. This let me get to the hard pack with a scraper and a drill mounted paint mixer. It took a while but I was eventually able to get all the hard-pack dissolved into the remaining liquid and then combined it in a new jug with what I had poured off in the beginning. Sounds like a lot of work bu not too bad. As an aside, I really like that plastic. I poured some 6 3/4" cut tails with it and when you put them on a shaky head the back 1/2 of the worn floats up at about a 45 degree angle.

Not bashing MF colors but they don’t make ones strong enough to get what you want. You think your worms are small I was doing it with a trout worm. About 1/8 round and 3” long. Colors looked great with Lurecraft.

I use a scroll saw for all my baits and lip slots. I hold the lip against the bait at the angle I want and trace on both sides of the lip with a fine pencil and then cut to the inside of both lines. I always need to take at lest two passes but you should be able to get any thickens you need by taking really light passes and testing the fit until you get it perfect.

I don’t have the percentages like David but I do use a lot of lead that has antimony in it. It is a lot harder than plumbers lead. I have to run my RCBS heater on 750° to make it work well. I cut the sprues before they get hard. I don’t try to break them off.

i use 6% antyimony in spincasting. it will be hard (no pun intened) to break off the spru in hand pouring. when I have a difficult pour in hand pouring I will use hard lead because I think it casts easier. last time i checked, roto only sells lead with around 4% linotype runs around 10-12% andtimony. I have hand poured 6% and that is plenty hard, I wouldn't call it brittle but breaking off the spru can leave a hole where it breaks off.

Similarly I use a double cut. I make the first cut with the blade and then "shave" off the sides until it fits.

Hagen's has a good supply

I'm right up there with you guys. So let's see. In the past five days, I've gotten a couple gals of plastic with additives. Worm oil and scents, and was just looking at color charts for green and orange or yellow colors. Of course these were all from different manufacturers. I mean why would I order everything at once? I thought I saw a thread about how much does lure making cost. Seems like $15.00 a worm at times. It's worse than having a garden and growing $20.00 a pound tomatoes. Looking at some firetiger plugs, green looks closer to what I need, and plain orange, with maybe a drop of yellow in both colors. These are skinny drop shot worms I'm making so its easy for the colors to blend together. MF here comes another order. Of course I added color before heating, but just adding more and more as I stirred. Looks great in the cup. Not so much in the bait. I don't use these my son does, and he thinks they look great. I'm a perfectionist and like to drive myself crazy getting it right. Crazy is how this hobby makes us.