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SlowFish that is the lure I mentioned in an earlier post, thanks for sharing that. There was a video on youtube several years ago that showcased and explainted the theroy and reasoning, along with action and results. Very cool. azsouth, great work explaining how you arrived at your conclusion. Several years ago when I had the test tank I had planned on trying something like this, never got around to it, to busy I guess, but great work anyway and thanks for sharing. Dave, I think we talked about this sometime ago, I was on a Japaneese Crankbiat kick and then swithced to your Hunting theroy because it called to me. Like I said in previous post's I have had success using Vodkaman's theroy and method, which in short is making the Diving bill longer and trimming it to get the desired action. There is alot more to it but that is the skinny of it. Please correct me if I'm wrong, I've even got myself in trouble or accused of absurdity when I mentioned this, the thought of tuning your crankbaits can be a touchy subject with some builders. So in general one thing I've learned from several guys here on TU, theres a lot of information that can be applied if we are only willing to think outside the box, or try something that does not makes sense at the time. When I take a dozen or more crankbasits to the lake my fishing partner and others look at me like I'm crazy and ask why do you spend so much time tuning crankbaits? HeHe! I build my crankbaits in weights, diving bill lengths, design and other ideas for a purpose, which is build a crankbiat for each application I think I need, and to try to perfect the action to the best of my ability, which does include tuning. Which brings us to whole other subject we can discuss on another thread. It's ideas, thoughts and applied science that makes this stuff happen so once agian I tip my Hat to you guys here on TU. Rich

Yes sir, REAR HOOK HANGER ONLY! Frequency theory is above my pay grade, but I can/do understand movements of blades and baits. I also have been thinking of just making clear blades out of clear plastic but in the desert climate I live in they would not last. I am currently using willow, French, Colorado, and Indiana blades with good success.

Incredible. Is this specifically on the rear hook hanger, or either? This makes me want to say really nerdy things about frequency bc I'm a computer engineer major, but I don't know enough about how crankbaits work to thoroughly explain it. It seems like the blade is meant to be on the rear hook hanger, and wobble back and forth like a spoon. Since that wobble is usually at a frequency that doesn't match the crankbait itself, it destabilizes the action, sometimes adding energy and sometimes removing. The issue seems to be that the rear blade has way too much drag, especially at the high high speeds of crankbaits. A specially-made spoon; light, long and narrow, with a deep-ish cup at the end might do it. Maybe cut the tip off a willow blade and bend the end up slightly.

A few things that I had to learn by mistake/not knowing. 1. weight of the design.... too much weight will cause the bait to do unintended things 2. exactly how it is attached.... NO swivel or split ring, those bring on weight and blade issues. 3. size and length of wire to each size hook.... again this brings weight back into it. 4. blade size and shape to the size of bait and bill.... blade should be smaller than the bill, normally. 5. Bait HAS TO BE TUNED CORRECT before attaching modification!!!! 6. .024 ss wire is the best for weight to durability ratio. These are just some of the things that I remember off the top of my head.

yes! without a doubt the different blades have different affects! Basically the bigger the lip the bigger the bigger blade you can use and not blow it out.

originally a buddy had asked my to trick out his bladed swim jig and let the fish see something different, that is where the idea came from. I found out rather quickly if you had a swivel you got the flash but the blade spinning on it killed the action of the bait. making different versions of this modification I learned quite a bit about the effects of blades with/without a swivel.

azsouth, I also have experiemented with this phenomenom and I'll try to reply post or relay as best in short as possible. Dave Vodkaman peaked my interest so I challenged myself and here are my findings best described in short terms. Building hunting crankbaits are a challenge, but with his knowledge and scientific approach it was acheivable and honestly more acheiveable than I thought, but Hunting crankbaits are not for everone! I have a fishing partner that cannot stand a hunting crankbait because they have a sweet spot for speed, maybe not his but he agreed they do have a place. I also researched this in depth but have yet to arrive at the conclusion I was looking for, so I feel your pain. I've determined what is best for me or my application may not be best for the next angler, my partner cannot stand a wild action crankbait, he wants a crankbait that runs true and will cast and run next or hit his target more often than not. He thinks the crankbait must be placed or cranked into areas that he can feel or see. Hunting crankbaits are often missunderstood , but have proven very effective on bass that are looking for a wild or dying action of a bait fish with reckless abandonment thrown to the wind and simply replicate a dying baitfish living out it's last minutes, but he thinks he catches more fish cranking a bait in the lair of a healthy bass waiting for it's prey. So I have to honor that. In my studies of this phenomenom the Japaneesee have also experimented with this hunting effect and there have ben a few that developed a disc or blade if you will, that attaches to the lure that will cause the crankbait to hunt. There was a video posted on youtube that showed this disc or blade in action on crankbaits, not sure it's still online but I've watched it many times, my take was more on the lines of Dave's ( vodkaman) theroy, I wanted to build a crankbait that would hunt without the help of any additional attachment to keep the crankbait more natural in appearance. I sure hope you do well with your idea and wish you the best, the one thing I can conclude is I've shifted more toward the tradional crankbait simply because of our style of fishing, which is speed based, the more cast you make and the more the bass are presented a lure, the greater chance you have for catching those fish method, not saying this is for everyone, but we have also leaned toward the most accurate cast's or presentaions in front of the fish are what has produced the best for us. Sorry if this not enuceated correctly, just a fishermans and lure builders point of view. Rich

I work for a large company in a product development role. I can tell you this, the bigger the company the less they care if the product "works" right. What they need to do is sell stuff profitably good bad or otherwise. Most have great ideas internally that never see daylight due to timing, market or whatever. Personally if i had a great bait that i could reproduce consistent quality catches and is manufacturable, you'd be better off doing an LLC. There is enough power in social media these days to not need the big companies anymore. Its a great time for entrepreneurs imho.

1. Wear leather gloves if you can. Especially on the hand that holds the mold in case lead pours over the mold or splashes. 2. Don't smoke, eat or munch on snacks when pouring lead. Because your hands are touching lead, and then you grab the cigarette, or the food and put it in your mouth.

I'm new to lead pouring, but here are some things I do to prevent turning a hobby into adversity. 1. Lead pot is on a cookie sheet in case the lead overflows or the pour spout malfunctions. 2. Lead is heated and poured in the garage, door open, 2 fans on high. 3. Fire extinguisher next to lead pot 4. Respirator is worn as soon as the lead pot is pluged in. 5. Extension cord to lead pot is routed so that no one (especially my son or wife) trips over it. 6. Son & wife are pre-warned to stay clear of the garage. 7. Dedicated pliers and tools only for lead pouring. 8. Safty glasses worn 9. Dedicated lead pouring hat hat worn. 10. No beer until after pouring. (I'm also a home brewer, so like my barley pops)